Wow...I just read this entire thread. Nice way to spend the evening in lockdown! So my question is can I use the same moly NGLI-2 grease I'll use on the yokes on the spiders/universals? (I know not vice versa). I only want to buy one grease gun if possible. Or just swap out grease cartridges?
The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread
- Thread starter Kigiin
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I would say consult the manual. But for the driveshaft I have been using the same grease for the slip yoke and u-joints.
prwillard2
SILVER Star
Believe it should be moly grease for the slip yoke. I used ngli 5 grease on my u joints. But then again, I'm pretty sure I messed up my driveshaft.
Back from a day at the beach. Truck was heavily loaded down. I normally hear the clunk after warm up, going from P to D, R to D, or at a coast and gassing. Never really bothered me. I noticed it more when driving over a deep sand trail over the weekend, foot lightly on the gas going up a small grade Soft sand trail. I could kind of hear the clunk intermittently engaging. This was in 4hi no diff locks Engaged.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
I found this article on TLCfaq.com that may help some people.
Driveline Thunk – Upgrade / Replace Rear Control Arms
Driveline Thunk – Upgrade / Replace Rear Control Arms
Does anyone else's truck not clunk when the center diff is locked? That seems to tell me it's not my hub flanges. Makes me think it's the front diff. mounts, because lubing the shafts don't seem to help.
No clunk when diff is locked on mine. Same shafts are greased, and changed out fluids.
So I've been chasing the clunk for a while and finally fixed my issue, I want to share this quick trick...
Drivelines all service and clunk remained
Drive flanges look good
Which led to front diff bushing, oh yeah...the front has some serious wiggle.
I'm not slick enough to do the repair based on what others have been through. So I just pressed in this hard rubber shower gasket around the top of the bushing/mount and the clunk is 100percent fixed.
Time will tell how this bandaid holds up, but the way i see it is this is a solid way to help diagnose before tearing down and in some people's case, still not fixing the issue.. Cost 3 dollars and installed in 10 seconds ( once skid plate was removed )
Hope this helps someone out there
Drivelines all service and clunk remained
Drive flanges look good
Which led to front diff bushing, oh yeah...the front has some serious wiggle.
I'm not slick enough to do the repair based on what others have been through. So I just pressed in this hard rubber shower gasket around the top of the bushing/mount and the clunk is 100percent fixed.
Time will tell how this bandaid holds up, but the way i see it is this is a solid way to help diagnose before tearing down and in some people's case, still not fixing the issue.. Cost 3 dollars and installed in 10 seconds ( once skid plate was removed )
Hope this helps someone out there
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Toyota has changed the recommendation, to pump until first sign of extension of slide yoke. This is in the 200 series FSM. But this assume it's been properly serviced. On older rigs not properly serviced the seals are worn and grease passes easy. I'll pump near a halve of a tube in them, just to see extension. Well serviced with good seals, it is and art to get grease to pass without warping that back plate. I've learned this the hard way.
I say don't "worry" about warped back plate. Because Lexus shop would drill a small hole in that plate to reduce drive-line clunk on new vehicles. They found it released the pressure. Warping does the same thing!
The yokes case has a double seal. The inner seal protion angle in. So as we pump in grease, it locks the seal air tight onto the yokes shaft. More we pump the more pressure builds within.
So, I was under my 99 greasing the shafts today and discovered this hole you talk about in the back of my rear shaft. Because this relieves pressure, it will keep the grease from being forced into the splines and out the seal. Would it be wise to try to tap the hole and plug it with a little bolt, maybe even another zerk? I know that this question has been asked but, after reading way too much about greasing drive shafts, I've not been able to find an answer.
man, I'm trying this. How did you install it, and what exactly is that gasket?
I picked up a rubber bathtub gasket from the bins at my local ace hardware, I have one back at home and will check it out tonight for specs. The concept for me was to just help diagnose the clunk, when the gasket was installed I noticed a big difference. T
Fast forward til' now, I had a shop replace the bushing and stoppers and it cleared up my clunks. My main symptoms were when I was coasting on the highway, let off the gas, and then when back on the gas it would bang/clunk. It also helped the shifting from park clunk.
I tried all and did all. Still had the clunk. Then checked aftermarket cv's with "just" 14K miles.. Both CVS had ton of free play on all joints and spines. Replaced both cv's with oem CVS and the clunk is gone. Avoid cheap Chinese cv's. The vibrations I experienced at 50 and 80 mph is also gone!.
its been a little over a year since i got my 05 LC100 from the dealer with 89000 miles. it had the clunk when i drove it off the lot and i have taken it to 4 shops since then to try and fix it. i replaced both front wheel drive axels and put a new U joint on in the back. No change. The last mechanic has pretty much confirmed its in my T case. He pulled apart the shafts and all the slip yokes look good. when its parked and you go from D N R you can hear and feel the clunk pretty hard and see its coming from the T case area (under driver seat). Has anyone had this issue and fixed it? New T cases with install will be in the 3K range which I really dont want to do.....
After chasing this down and doing every fix that makes sense my clunk is still happening. Most fixes were in my head and then after driving I realized the problem remains.
The P-R-D clunk has been solved by rolling slightly between gear shift, but I still feel like someone is rear ending me when I coast and then get back on the accelerator and really any speed.
Im afraid to dump any more money into it for a clunk that appears to be doing no damage or getting any worse.
yeah the clunk is when i get on the gas after letter the rpms go down while driving. i am pretty sure its the transfer case and the teeth being worn out in it. super annoying but not sure if its work 3K...
I wonder if the clunk could be flange wear?
I've got a good group of land cruiser mechanics around here who tell me to just drive the thing and have fun, fix it when it blows.
Personally I'd rather fix the clunk because every time it happens I feel another gray hair pop out. But its been years and isn't getting worse, just annoying. You could be left still chasing it after a transfer rebuild. Maybe you see the movement in the Tcase but that's not to say it isn't being affected by another component.
After replacing bushings, servicing drive shafts, etc. etc. I am still left clunking. When wheelin in 4lo it can be pretty rough, but just have to big toe and baby my way back onto the pedal.
The damn clunk....enough to make me want to sell my rig at times
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that's strange, definitely different than my clunk because my D to R clunk is gone when in 4L (or with the center diff locked) I suspect mine is the front diff. bushing.
