The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread (3 Viewers)

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That was my thought as well when I realized I was running rich but I would have thought the effect would have been the opposite. This is my first time tuning a diesel so I don't always know what to expect.


Time for a re-tune.
You've made a change to a major part of the system. I think the fact you are seeing a noticeable change in black smoke is a good thing, it indicates the change is significant.
With no restriction in the exhaust, I would expect it to require less fuel to drive the turbo because there's less back pressure to overcome.
I think this explains why you are seeing more smoke off idle. I would also expect smoke to disappear quickly as it comes on boost.
If you could data log what's happening before and after, I think you'd find you'd have lower exhaust manifold pressures to produce the same boost.

You may need to paint the aneroid pin and figure out what you're starting with, then start over with the tuning process.
 
So my project yesterday was to build a 3" downpipe to replace the stock one which connected to a 3" exhaust at the B-pillar. I would have thought it would have just spooled earlier and leaned out some but it seemed to have the opposite effect. I had the truck tuned pretty well and the other week I drove it through the mountains to give me a good idea of how it's running under load. After installing the pipe it seemed to spool slower and was blowing more black smoke off the line. I hooked my boat up and have been driving around messing with the tune. I turned the fuel pin off of the max which is where I had it. I then also reduced the cam plate to the minimum from the maximum which seemed to help and be the opposite of how it always acted. Before adding cam tension increased my spool. Maybe I'm thinking of it incorrectly but I don't see why this change would seem to make my off-boost rich.
I've been thinking about this since the day you posted.
I beleive the result should have been as you described, instead it is the opposite.

There are 2 things I can think of that might make it respond this way.

1. Maybe the lower pressure after the turbine is kind of 'sucking' the wastegate open earlier than it would have opened before? This would compromise spool greatly. Maybe try adding a bit more preload and see what happens.

2. I feel really bad saying this, but maybe something in the exhaust you changed isn't agreeing with the setup. To test this you would have to replace this piece with another or put the original back on and make sure it goes back to how it was.

How does it perform once on boost?

@MMPTurbos what are your thoughts?
 
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Tom, overall after some messing with it I'm not sure there is a major problem. My gauges are kind of temporarily mounted and I'm almost convinced that my boost issue was my boost gauge hose getting compressed. I'm not sure but I eventually got it feeling more normal after messing with the tune again. I had been messing with the tune so much that I was relying on the tension of the main fuel screw o ring to keep it in place and once I checked it it seemed like my fuel had turned itself up. I pulled the main fuel screw and counted threads to get it back to close to stock. I had a plan that didn't work out when I went to remove it. I didn't count rotations, but I counted exposed inward threads before the lock but before I removed the lock collar. Since the screw had moved from vibration I pulle it out and tried to set it back to stock and go a bit from there. Right now I am still on almost the most aggressive side of the pin. Halfway between stock (which was right in the middle) and Max. I ended up adding some more cam tension after pulling some main fuel as well. It was still a bit smokey so I pulled a touch of main fuel and now I have just a haze under load and just slightly worse spool than I had with the main fuel turned up 1/16 of a turn. I would say it's pretty much feels like before I did the exhaust but with slightly lower EGTs. I don't have any more time to test it as I'm leaving tonight for a week and thousands of miles road trip. Right now I am spooling a little later and a little slower but I can still hit 21 psi and she runs great.
My issue with my tuning is that you say you are running out of fuel at 33psi and my GTurbo tuning guide says to turn the main fuel screw in a turn and you will have to adjust the idle back down. My main fuel screw was adjusted at one point that my truck idled at 1000 rpms but since I turned it back down its back to 650. I feel like my fuel screw is just around stock location since I never adjusted the idle. I figured I could use that as a reference point to set the main fuel back to stock. I feel like if I turn it up at all I get smoke. I plan to do my injectors because they are probably due for it and maybe that has something to do with it but i feel like I have not added much fuel before I'm running too rich with high EGTs. I keep telling myself to just worry about it once I get my intercooler built because there is no point in spending a bunch of time tuning it now. Maybe the intercooler will allow me a full turn of my main screw, I'm not sure, but I just don't feel like I had made significant changes. Over stock I know I have because my EGTs are higher cruising on the highway and I can get a puff of black if I stab the gas at idle like the GTurbo guide says. Also, when I ran this turbo on stock fuel it would only boost 18 psi and ito took forever to get there.
Sorry for my stream of consciousness. Not sure my point is coming across in my rambling.
 
To get a reference of performance when tuning Try doing 4th gear timed runs say from 1500-3600rpm or however fast you are comfortable going on your "private road."
Narrowing the rpm range will give u a more focussed tuning area, but don't forget to do a full rpm run afterwards to make sure other areas havnt changed .

Intercooling will Make a massive difference . You'll be able to give it quite a bit more fuel
 
I'm almost convinced that my boost issue was my boost gauge hose getting compressed.
If the boost reference to the pump was being crushed, this could be the result.
If it's just the line to the gauge I don't think you would be seeing the smoke.

I would say it's pretty much feels like before I did the exhaust but with slightly lower EGTs.
This is a good sign that your exhaust is doing what you want.

I don't have any more time to test it as I'm leaving tonight for a week and thousands of miles road trip.
I hope you enjoy the trip.

Right now I am spooling a little later and a little slower but I can still hit 21 psi and she runs great.
This still has me questioning if the everything is happy. If anything, with a freer flowing exhaust it should spool earlier and quicker.
I am glad it's going good when it's going.

I keep telling myself to just worry about it once I get my intercooler built because there is no point in spending a bunch of time tuning it now. Maybe the intercooler will allow me a full turn of my main screw
If you are patient enough, this will work out better.
I think the gturbo tuning guide is for beginning at the stock setup. For reference, I have only gone in 3/4 turn on my main fuel screw from 15psi to where I am now.

Sorry for my stream of consciousness. Not sure my point is coming across in my rambling.
No worries. I have a very good idea of the things that go through your head in these situations.
 
So I'm in the middle of my road trip and have made a few adjustments along the way. One thing I know is I need to get my intercooler built. I left Maryland when it was 95f and 90% humidity. When I got out into the mountains and the temp dropped to 70f I could see a huge drop in EGTs. It's running well now and getting 18mpg if I keep my speed under 70mph. I think without an intercooler I run into my EGT limit well before my smoke limit.
My one question is getting the turbo to spool. I can hear it start spooling at 1200 Rpms or so but I'm not getting 15 psi till probably 2500 rpms. The group buy stated "These turbos can deliver 14 psi @ 1650 rpm and 25+ psi @ 1900 rpm"
What changes should I make to increase spool? When I had added fuel on the main screw it seems to spool better but I would hit high EGTs. Now I have added tension to the star wheel so I don't think it's going to max fuel so easily so hopefully that will help keep my temps down
 
Hmmm, 15psi by 2500rpm has got to be worse than stock. I'd be adding fuel off idle to assist the turbo spooling, so that would mean adjusting the off-boost cam adjustment on the boost compensator lid so the aneroid is sitting further into the pump at rest.

Stiffening up the spring via starwheel adjustment is going to mean more boost is required before the pin starts moving and adds more fuel, that's not going to help your spool-up situation either.
 
That does not sound like its working too well at all @vwluv10338
While I'm not seeing 16psi at 1650rpm, I am at 15psi by around 1800rpm right now. I'm still not tuned yet but I'm seeing at 25+ by 2000rpm and 33psi by 2150rpm, and I have the bigger version of the compressor wheel that you have. You should be seeing boost earlier than I am.
I have a feeling an electronic boost controller and programmable injection timing would be beneficial to get the boost levels I was told for the group buy, but their not on my must have list yet.

My recommendation would be to increase your wastegate preload. This is far from the best job to be performing on a road trip but I'm pretty confident that this will help your spooling. If you have thread left on the arm its not too bad, if you don't, you can insert a spacer between the actuator and the mounting bracket. FYI I have less than 2mm of wastegate travel right now.
This is my spacer for now.
20170615_103700.jpg
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I'm waiting for my replacement turbo to arrive before I tune properly, and then I will not need wastegate spacer either.
 
It would make sense that something mechanical could be to blame, can you hear when your wastegate opens? I can hear my stock turbo wastegate open, but it took forever for me to figure out that's what I was hearing, lol. The noise changes from a whistle to a dull screeching noise, I think this happens around 14psi on hard acceleration on my untouched turbo/wastegate setup, later at moderate acceleration.
 
I have the off boost can turned all the way down right now. If I stab the throttle in neutral I get a quick puff of black smoke so I don't think I add more fuel down low on the main fuel screw. I had to tighten the star wheel because it was going to max fuel so quickly on the stock setting that my EGTs were going too high. I have never seen boost like @diby 2000 is describing. I shouldn't have to shim the fancy wastegate and I shouldnt have to pull my turbo off again for this. I can't hear my wastegate open but I have never listened specifically for it. Before I touched my fuel it would only spool 18psi total. Right now it seems to like to spool to 15-18 and only go to 21-22psi if I really stomp it. Now I'm even more frustrated and regretting purchasing it now
 
Your boost is building too slowly, if it was acting as it should you wouldn't be getting too much fuel too quickly as the air to support it would be there as well.

I'd be looking at the wastegate to start, if it's sticking open or something it would explain the slow spooling.
 
Update: my turbo is f*cked. I turned up the main fuel to the point that I have smoke and went for a drive. No change. I pulled over and popped the hood and I could hear the turbo still spinning and the compressor wheel contacting the housing making a little "ting ting" sound. I'm so done with this piece of junk
 
I agree the turbo assembly should arrive in a 'bolt on and enjoy' condition. The fact is mine did not. You are describing very similar conditions that I encountered when I first bolted my turbo on. After talking to @MMPTurbos I was made aware just how critical the wastegate is for spool on a diesel and how I had compromised mine. His temporary solution for me was to add preload and limit the travel of the gate.
This is when I began getting the spool I have described. As @IanB describes, once the air is there, you can add more fuel and the temps and the soot disappear.

I can remove my wastegate with the turbo still bolted on but it makes it easier if you have compressed air available to operate the actuator as you are removing and attaching the arm to the gate lever.
 
14 PSI @ 1650 it's huge .. and must be under " perfect " conditions .. I never saw my G turbo over 10 PSI at that rpm range .. ( 90°F @ 90% humidity usual ) and I have plenty fuel ..
 
Update: my turbo is f*cked. I turned up the main fuel to the point that I have smoke and went for a drive. No change. I pulled over and popped the hood and I could hear the turbo still spinning and the compressor wheel contacting the housing making a little "ting ting" sound. I'm so done with this piece of junk

Holy crap!
That's terrible. That really sucks big time.
How far from home are you now?
 
That sux man.
I'm really sorry this has happened to you.

Like we have spoken about before, I feel a level of responsibility here.
I didn't build these things nor do I have any affiliation with Luke apart from organizing this group buy, but I still feel responsible for the outcome.
Now you are not only not happy with this, but it has failed, leaving you busted, so far from home.

Again, I'm real sorry mate.
 
It's not your fault. I decided to jump on and save hundreds of dollars over a GTurbo and this is where it got me. I'm driving the damn thing home. It's not acting any differently since the day I put it on. I sent an email off to Luke and I just want my money back. He never did come up with a solution for the oil drains or the missing banjo bolt. I guess he got his money and doesn't care since the group buy is over.



That sux man.
I'm really sorry this has happened to you.

Like we have spoken about before, I feel a level of responsibility here.
I didn't build these things nor do I have any affiliation with Luke apart from organizing this group buy, but I still feel responsible for the outcome.
Now you are not only not happy with this, but it has failed, leaving you busted, so far from home.

Again, I'm real sorry mate.
 
It's not your fault. I decided to jump on and save hundreds of dollars over a GTurbo and this is where it got me. I'm driving the damn thing home. It's not acting any differently since the day I put it on. I sent an email off to Luke and I just want my money back. He never did come up with a solution for the oil drains or the missing banjo bolt. I guess he got his money and doesn't care since the group buy is over.

This is awful, I'm sorry to hear your situation. Really keep an eye on your EGT's as you head home.
 
I had been trying to get a video uploaded but I'm on vacation and don't have wifi. Hopefully this works

ETA: I'm getting a little off topic but I guess the lesson here is you can't tune around broken parts be it a worn pump, leaky injectors, or a blown turbo


Here is my turbo. Click the link

IMG_0626
 
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