Very cool!
The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread
- Thread starter ForealBoreal
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Thoughts on this? I was shopping for a wide band and found this which has an electronic boost controller built in.
SCG-1 Solenoid Boost Controller Gauge
SCG-1 Solenoid Boost Controller Gauge
I'm not sure the boost cut function has any relevance for a diesel? Maybe I've misunderstood its function?
I think it is intended for a gas engine scenario where excess boost can lean out the AFR causing excess heat. On This scenario, cutting boost is a fail safe.
This is the opposite in a diesel, if your AFR is lean, you simply get less power, if it's too rich, you either need to cut fuel, or add air/boost, not cut boost.
I think your right. This sounds like a petrol engine protection function. It does say it is user programmable so you might be able to turn that function off completely.
Be aware that the wideband sensor itself is different for a diesel application though I think.
I don't know much about electronic boost controllers but I'm told some are much better than others. I don't know what category this one is in.
Yes the boost cut is for petrol engines and is programmable so it can be turned off. It says it's programmable for petrol, E85, diesel etc. I was looking at getting an AFR gauge and came across this one with the addition of the boost controller it seems like a good deal
So i snapped a couple pics of my assumed factory pin on the right, and my ground/tuned pin on the left. They are different profile pins, different numbers stamped on the ends (although I neglected to write them down), and the grinds appear to start in about the same place, but the "tuned" pin has more length of the pin's ground area, requiring more travel to use all the grind, or to reach the de-fueling profile.
![IMG_3038[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_3038-1-webp.1521921/ "IMG_3038[1].webp")
![IMG_3039[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_3039-1-webp.1521922/ "IMG_3039[1].webp")
![IMG_3040[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_3040-1-webp.1521923/ "IMG_3040[1].webp")
![IMG_3041[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_3041-1-webp.1521924/ "IMG_3041[1].webp")
After having a closer look at what I'm working with, I think there's some room for improvement here. The pin doesn't appear to have been travelling to the part of the profile that was ground out at 20psi with these star wheel/spring pre-load settings. Loosening things up should yield some gains, we'll see. It's almost like the spring tension is set up for the stock pin still? I guess the other option would be to swap the stock pin back at this point and play with that instead...
![IMG_3042[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_3042-1-webp.1521925/ "IMG_3042[1].webp")
After having a closer look at what I'm working with, I think there's some room for improvement here. The pin doesn't appear to have been travelling to the part of the profile that was ground out at 20psi with these star wheel/spring pre-load settings. Loosening things up should yield some gains, we'll see. It's almost like the spring tension is set up for the stock pin still? I guess the other option would be to swap the stock pin back at this point and play with that instead...
@IanB. Interesting. My stock pin looks closer to your modded pin but without the extra depth ground.
If your star wheel tension was set up for a stock 10psi and you are running more than that you would think it would be pushed down further but that may be all the travel your pin has hence the new taller caps shops offer like the one I recently posted.
Now people always talked about setting the star wheel tension so your pin would stop at the deepest part of the cut and not go into fuel cut. Are we sure it will actually cut fuel? My pin has shims under it and with my stock tension tuning double the boost the pin would obviously get pushed all the way down but when I had too much fuel my EGTs were increasing as I kept my foot in it. It never acted like the fuel was cut. Wouldn't the pin just go to max fuel quicker with less tension but the shims keep it there and it never pulls fuel?
If your star wheel tension was set up for a stock 10psi and you are running more than that you would think it would be pushed down further but that may be all the travel your pin has hence the new taller caps shops offer like the one I recently posted.
Now people always talked about setting the star wheel tension so your pin would stop at the deepest part of the cut and not go into fuel cut. Are we sure it will actually cut fuel? My pin has shims under it and with my stock tension tuning double the boost the pin would obviously get pushed all the way down but when I had too much fuel my EGTs were increasing as I kept my foot in it. It never acted like the fuel was cut. Wouldn't the pin just go to max fuel quicker with less tension but the shims keep it there and it never pulls fuel?
Depending on the shim thickness, you will probably not go into fuel cut. That's what the shims are there for.
Once you remove the shims, it is possible. At least with my pin (looks like yours by the sound of it) it will.
Once you remove the shims, it is possible. At least with my pin (looks like yours by the sound of it) it will.
My pump had been fiddled with prior to me getting in there, so I have no idea what "stock" settings would have been, only what I started with. The tune that was on there ran well, no smoke, better power than previous, and safe on the EGT's even in the mountains, so I can't really complain with what I got when I had it tuned. I found it strange though, that the ground portion of the pin profile wasn't being used, I've been running 22psi for the past year with this tune, that's what the star wheel should have been set for. Looks to me like it was set with too much preload for that, but who knows what the approach was when the tune was set. The truck ran well and the tune was safe...
Plan is to bring boost down to 18psi (still "too much" for the stock turbo), and trying some things to increase the low end and midrange power, while still keeping it safe. I plan on a turbo upgrade in the spring, so I'll be retuning at that point again. Just getting my feet wet for the time being.
I can't say if the pin will move downward enough to have the follower pin reach the defueling part of the profile, but if it were to, I believe it would decrease fueling as the follower pin rode up the grind.
22 psi on the stock turbo? That's playing with fire I am lead to believe
Yes. It is. For a start, it's way off the map in terms of efficiency.
At high engine RPM at 22psi, it's likely to be into choke. Turbo RPM goes up dramatically, but efficiency drops dramatically too. It's spinning too fast to be able to push the air through.
It's a very "interesting" experience to hear your turbo literally "POP" like a balloon at 22psi and 3500rpm
When I was playing with above ^^ I ground my fuel pin to stop it cutting fuel. My pump had no shims, and it was definitely cutting fuel.
I'd love a clear close up of the pins trundles have made.
To my mind, have the taller top cover will let you start with the pin sitting higher having the bottom of the pin high enough that it is just intersecting with the follower pin, allowing you max available travel.
I think it could reduce binding of the spring, but I don't think the spring will bind in a stock pump.
Ideally, the taper would start 2-3mm up from the bottom of the pin.
Down travel is still limited by the depth inside the BC housing.
I'd love a clear close up of the pins trundles have made.
To my mind, have the taller top cover will let you start with the pin sitting higher having the bottom of the pin high enough that it is just intersecting with the follower pin, allowing you max available travel.
I think it could reduce binding of the spring, but I don't think the spring will bind in a stock pump.
Ideally, the taper would start 2-3mm up from the bottom of the pin.
Down travel is still limited by the depth inside the BC housing.
I share that sentiment. It's more than I'm comfortable with, but I check on it regularly and there's zero shaft play or other signs of impending doom after a year at this setting. I'm finally up to speed where I'm comfortable digging in and doing my own tune, and have the time to mess with it, so it will be set lower shortly.
Honestly, I think the difference between 18psi and 22psi on the stock turbo is mostly noise (and heat).
18psi through 4" dump, 3" exhaust sounded like a jet engine.
22psi sounded like you've got the local tabby's nuts in a set of vice grips.
The gains vs risk just aren't there.
I was reasonably comfortable with 18psi, and would probably run a stock turbo at that again, but only if it was in good nick, and only with a turbo filter . . . errr, intercooler fitted to catch the bits. Even then, I think it's questionable, and likely in choke.
Played with the pump some more, further star wheel adjustments weren't seeing the pin move any further downward, and eventually bottomed out the star wheel. There's a couple of shims that sit on the top of the bore the aneroid pin goes into that were limiting downward travel, so I removed the thinner of the 2, and NOW we're getting somewhere! Bigger change from removing that spacer than from any of the other adjustments I've made to date!
Truck now gives off a small cloud when you punch it as boost catches up then cleans up quickly, engine pulls much harder and holds gears to redline much more readily, it's great! I'll monitor things and probably dial the star wheel back up a bit as time goes on.
![IMG_3057[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_3057-1-webp.1530445/ "IMG_3057[1].webp")
![IMG_3058[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_3058-1-webp.1530446/ "IMG_3058[1].webp")
Truck now gives off a small cloud when you punch it as boost catches up then cleans up quickly, engine pulls much harder and holds gears to redline much more readily, it's great! I'll monitor things and probably dial the star wheel back up a bit as time goes on.
@IanB
That's a lot of shims. Is that two? I have one on mine that I haven't removed yet but it looks like only one of the thinner ones in your hand.
That's a lot of shims. Is that two? I have one on mine that I haven't removed yet but it looks like only one of the thinner ones in your hand.
Yes, 2 shims, a thinner and thicker, I removed only the thinner.
Hey @IanB,
Have you gotten back in there to check travel on the pin yet? FWIW, you stock pin looks just like mine.
I just turned mine from the most conservative profile half way to the aggressive side. Non intercooled EGTs are decent. But, if I gun it from 0 - 90 mph, I'll get an EGT of 1250 F. It climbs to 1250 and doesn't go any higher but that seems too high to me. I'll just modulate my right foot to keep that from happening for now.
Have you gotten back in there to check travel on the pin yet? FWIW, you stock pin looks just like mine.
I just turned mine from the most conservative profile half way to the aggressive side. Non intercooled EGTs are decent. But, if I gun it from 0 - 90 mph, I'll get an EGT of 1250 F. It climbs to 1250 and doesn't go any higher but that seems too high to me. I'll just modulate my right foot to keep that from happening for now.
No, it's been a few days since I opened it back up, hopefully I'll get a chance to muck with it some more tonight. I'm also picking up a Gturbo Grunter Extreme from the DHL depot after work today!
Nice! I'm going to be jealous of your intercooler AND turbo now!