The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread (3 Viewers)

[rebuilt80]

Thanks for that!

Had another run it this morning and ended up (after about 20 steps) getting to about 20.5 AFR @ 25psi without the pin (and diaphragm) So as those who've been down this path before had probably discovered, it leaks boost without the diaphragm to seal things up, so when you put the pin back in, it sends all the numbers all over the place. So given the time and logistical constraints I've got (no time to seperate the pin from the diagphramm, and I'm tuning on the side of a freeway on my own...), I had to then try and get those numbers with the pin in. Which kinda makes the 'pin out' numbers redundant.. Which makes me sad. SO, being that as it may, I've got the thing now set to (22 deg ambient) 20.5 AFR @ 25PSI TC locked up 90kmh, with the pin in.

I realise thats a kinda low AFR but I'll watch it over the next few hot days and see where it goes, and thats set dragging the heavy trailer around as well, to replicate a fair old load.

I also removed both washers. Perhaps I can give that AFR a lift with a washer?!

Pin should be set to be sitting just on the edge of the full diameter (see previous post) and spring tension is the same thus far.

So in the end, I trimmed 3/4 of a turn of fuel out of it, and added a quarter turn more boost adjustment.

It now boosts straight through that boost ceiling of 19 that started this issue, and sits at 25 happily. These are WOT, foot flat, worst case numbers, and I drive gently normally. I would like to see the AFR a little leaner long term, and wonder what people thing about the level of boost for a GX turbo? Happily pull 25?

Finally, how have other people devised a point of reference? How do you know when its feeling better or worse? I'm starting to lose perspective, and don't really know how good it can be?! At least for the top end, there is a numerical figure we're chasing, but is there any reference points for lower down? Or its all fairly subjective, and a dyno is really the only way to map things out!??

Thanks for those who've helped thus far.

 

[ForealBoreal]

Do you remember what you did just as a reference other than just set it on the edge of the profile? What did end up doing in terms of adjustment?
You can check it with a paint marker on the profile and see where in terms your sitting on the pin when you reassemble the boost comp

take the diaphragm/pin out and unplug your boost line to it. Plug it off.
Yes you could try a washer to lift the AFR but I wouldn't bother.
You can run that 20.5 max AFR all day with an HDJ81.
25lbs is fine, guys are happily running 30lbs without issue.

I am also curious to see your long term fuel economy with the turbo.

 

[rebuilt80]

The pin was set by measuerment and required 2 full turns on the start wheel from where I originally had it.

Ah yeah, plugging the boost line.. Yeah well, that didn't happen, hahah...

Towing a trailer every day around town throws about a 16l/100 avg.

Long highway trip gets down aruund the 13's but normally has some trailer work included in that average on either a friday or monday...

See how we go with some more changes, if it can lean out any more.

Trying to confirm what sort of boost that GX's are designed to be taking long term. XXi seems to be the only one stating numbers and they stop at 25 for a GX...!? Would love to be able throw some more fuel back into it, was a bit sad to see it trimmed out. Never really had a smoke problem, it was all behind me, haha...

 

[dadinabarrel]

It still amazes me that only a couple of years ago we were looking at 10psi as being quite threatening. When I bought my 2nd Troopy I was told by the turbo/injection tuner "don't run the turbo over 7psi or you'll wreck your engine" a lot of people though that more boost meant more power at the risk of blowing everything to bits, we now know that's just not the case.

The relationship between boost/AFR/pre EGT temps are now better understood and the guys out on the leading edge are breaking new ground all the time. A very quick, robust 300hp (1HD-T) Landcruiser is now a reality.

Happy Days indeed

 

[dadinabarrel]

Rebuilt80
My 1HZ GTurbo Grunter Extreme boosts very quickly out to 28psi on a 10mm VE and I can't get enough fuel, are you on a 12mm pump?

 

[ForealBoreal]

yup since he has a 1hd-t

 

[rebuilt80]

1hd-ft for clarity.

 

[dadinabarrel]

Sweet, wish I did, I could do burnouts in my Troopy then hahaha, those things have a lot of potential

 

[rebuilt80]

define potential..? (as in, I'm curious to know which areas are particularly good in the FT's) I'm learning on the fly, havn' a go as they say. I'm always open to learning, and I like to improve on a good thing, so which areas are the good areas on an FT, as opposed to an HZ or DT.

Better flowing heads than a HZ so get rid of heat. (assuming thats where the melted piston issue comes from?)
roughly same pump as DT no? Ie no EGT rubbish, full size etc etc.
More involved valve train which may well equate to better flowing, but may not..?

Learn me, all.

And burnouts are still a while off whilst she's all paw. Part timed it for a while when the front end blew to bits, and it was gawdawful. Don't know why people like the handling when they are part timed, horrible understeering nightmare they are. All Paw lets you just tip it into a corner and give it the beans and it seems to claw its way around and out! I underlined handling to make a note that everyone wants to be able to do burnouts, thats a given. So I'm talking about handling, as I sure as hell would love to be able to rip a few hoops somewhere!

tempted to keep going up with the boost - what do people think? Sensible? Or leave it be...

 

[ForealBoreal]

Crank it up.
There will be a point where your stock pump will stop producing.
Last I heard 30lbs is the max for that turbo but I would ask.
Maybe its only good till 28lbs?

 

[dadinabarrel]

define potential..? (as in, I'm curious to know which areas are particularly good in the FT's) I'm learning on the fly, havn' a go as they say. I'm always open to learning, and I like to improve on a good thing, so which areas are the good areas on an FT, as opposed to an HZ or DT.

Better flowing heads than a HZ so get rid of heat. (assuming thats where the melted piston issue comes from?)
roughly same pump as DT no? Ie no EGT rubbish, full size etc etc.
More involved valve train which may well equate to better flowing, but may not..?

Learn me, all.

And burnouts are still a while off whilst she's all paw. Part timed it for a while when the front end blew to bits, and it was gawdawful. Don't know why people like the handling when they are part timed, horrible understeering nightmare they are. All Paw lets you just tip it into a corner and give it the beans and it seems to claw its way around and out! I underlined handling to make a note that everyone wants to be able to do burnouts, thats a given. So I'm talking about handling, as I sure as hell would love to be able to rip a few hoops somewhere!

tempted to keep going up with the boost - what do people think? Sensible? Or leave it be...

A 1HZ is capable of 225hp

A 1HD is capable of 300hp+

Chalk and cheese really in terms of output potential, but 200hp with longevity is plenty in a car that's designed more along the lines of a tractor than a ferrari, I'm happy with that, I think it's more about making the best of what you have. you can pick up a 1HZ pretty cheap in comparison.

As for part time, I put an 80 series A440F transmission and full time transfer in my Troopy, as I had free wheeling hubs I put a part time spool in my trans so I can engage the front diff on a switch. Although you have getter road control etc when in constant 4 x 4, in 4 x 2 you don't have to drive the extra shaft, diff and wheels 24/7 so it's more economical and easier to steer (a troopy anyway) Everything is a trade off just suit yourself.

As for 4 x 2 and blowing it around corners, when you grow up driving 4 x 2's on bush tracks you just can't help loving that drifting tail feel

 

[dadinabarrel]

Crank it up.
There will be a point where your stock pump will stop producing.
Last I heard 30lbs is the max for that turbo but I would ask.
Maybe its only good till 28lbs?

That's why I need an expert and a dyno. Who am I kidding? Be conservative, I don't think so, I'll take whatever I can get out of it so it'll roar when I ask it to and tootle along when wifey is watching...

 

[rebuilt80]

got bored after being rained off work today, so fiddled my way to 28psi/700pre/20.5AFR on the way home. Seems to be nice up top, but need a bit of tickling down low. Not really leaving the line too frisky any more. Suggest more spring tension?

 

[ForealBoreal]

reduce it slightly. Might have to touch your max fuel screw down smidgen (tiny amount)

 

[dadinabarrel]

Sounds like you need less, get back to the head of the ramp off idle, and maybe a smidge less fuel when it gets there

 

[rebuilt80]

Really wasn't thinking when I said more tension, sorry about that...

9 clicks less so far, has improved but could do with more I feel..

 

[dadinabarrel]

 

[ForealBoreal]

Its not all that complicated if your willing to do a little tinkering to tune one of these things.
I think you understand the basis on how this thing works and how to troubleshoot it now.

 

[rebuilt80]

I appreciate that, what I really want to do is take it from aimless tinkering to something that goes close to fulfilling its potential. I can read graeme's instructions as well as the next bloke, but its the problem solving methodolgy that takes the experience of people other than me that I came seeking. The instructions are suitably vague in key areas (as well they should be when handing expensive things over to DIY people, I'd do the same and probably more) so hopefully we can keep combining ideas and experiences on places like these to keep making small improvements?!

Back to the discussion tho, why would I be teasing a little bit of fuel out of it?? Is it a number that leads you to suggest that (28/20.5/700?) Or is that just the done thing. I've set this up dragging my big bastard trailer around, so without load (ie no trailer) the numbers lean right off.

Anyway, I'm probably covering old ground now, so thanks for helping me fix the flat spot that I came here for, cheers.

 

[ForealBoreal]

I'm pumped for you, i guess the only other thing that could be done is dyno testing it for bragging rights.
Its not really a Canadian or American thing for us to dyno tune our cruisers. Which I am sure we will get a ton of flack with our turbo and pump developments during R&D from the Straya blokes.

Well assuming you loosened the spring it will travel deeper on the fuel pin (technically).
Hense at the higher boost levels more fuel. If your AFRs are too rich for your likings then you will need to back off the max fuel screw.

Good that you tuned it to what you pull often so you know regardless you won't hurt it with whatever you pull. Peace of mind.
How much does it lean off without towing?