Builds The Oddball 80 - Middle East GX Renovation (1 Viewer)

[cruisermatt]

I almost went this route but then once I got the valve cover off it was super easy to get the air rail stuff off. I bought a gasket to do this but in the end it was not necessary.

Yeah it can be done that way too. I’ve seen the air injectors shear off in the head and then everything needs to come off

 

[wngrog]

Yeah it can be done that way too. I’ve seen the air injectors shear off in the head and then everything needs to come off

lots of Kroil and slow slow. Had to tap out some in the 2F I’m building for the FJ45 that a meat head stripped

 

[SNLC]

When you get it done, play with the timing.

Cheers

 

[wngrog]

So, the lower radiator hose looked like crap.

The radiator looked OK but it’s likely 29 years old

And so begins the term used in the military and in all my projects.....Mission Creep

I hope I don’t have too many leftover parts when I try to put all this back together

 

[Grandlooser]

Fix what's working fine I always say.

 

[wngrog]

Sure hope I’m not forgetting something. This stuff all fits tight!

This is what the belt routing looks like when it’s desmogged (I think )

 

[Godwin]

Sure hope I’m not forgetting something. This stuff all fits tight!
View attachment 2414999
This is what the belt routing looks like when it’s desmogged (I think )

View attachment 2415001

What belt did you use once you eliminated the smog pump?

 

[MoJ]

I’m unfamiliar with that motor - is the cogged belt design correct?

 

[wngrog]

I’m unfamiliar with that motor - is the clogged belt design correct?

Clogged belt?

 

[wngrog]

What belt did you use once you eliminated the smog pump?

 

[MoJ]

Clogged belt?

Cogged. Thanks autocorrect

 

[wngrog]

Went with a CSF all metal radiator to replace the OEM plastic tank.

Tomorrow I have to lift it up and replace the lower oil cooler hose and then I’ll button all this up and hopefully I did it correctly.

 

[wngrog]

Cogged. Thanks autocorrect

Yes, that’s OEM except for the AC belt. It’s smooth. The PO had the belt run under the upper tensioner but the proper replacement belt would not fit that way so that tells me they had it wrong. It was all jacked up and likely the belt that was squeeling even though it was banjo tight

 

[80t0ylc]

Went with a CSF all metal radiator to replace the OEM plastic tank.................

The CSF should be fine if you keep it close to the stock weight. Also if you keep gearing /tire size ratio close to stock. Where the copper/brass radiators fall short of aluminum performance is when the engine has to work harder because of increased tire size with no gear ratio compensation after you increased the weight from armor/mods. This is mainly on hills in the summertime when ambient temps are near 100 degrees or more.

 

[wngrog]

The CSF should be fine if you keep it close to the stock weight. Also if you keep gearing /tire size ratio close to stock. Where the copper/brass radiators fall short of aluminum performance is when the engine has to work harder because of increased tire size with no gear ratio compensation after you increased the weight from armor/mods. This is mainly on hills in the summertime when ambient temps are near 100 degrees or more.

It won’t have any hot ass transmission fluid running through it .........

I never knew these cooled less efficient than the plastic tank radiators. Good to know.

Not planning on a winch up there blocking air either. I’m in the hot part of the world. Hope it works ok.

 

[80t0ylc]

It won’t have any hot ass transmission fluid running through it .........

I never knew these cooled less efficient than the plastic tank radiators. Good to know.

Not planning on a winch up there blocking air either. I’m in the hot part of the world. Hope it works ok.

That's right - manual tranny will definitely help. The pre-1995 OEM plastic tank radiators were copper/brass. The '95 model went to a 2 row aluminum (still plastic tank) from the previous 3 row copper/brass. The efficiency of aluminum allowed reducing to 2 rows and actually improving cooling performance.

 

[wngrog]

That's right - manual tranny will definitely help. The pre-1995 OEM plastic tank radiators were copper/brass. The '95 model went to a 2 row aluminum (still plastic tank) from the previous 3 row copper/brass. The efficiency of aluminum allowed reducing to 2 rows and actually improving cooling performance.

I probably should have left it all alone but I am skeered of 29 year old rubber and plastic. This way if something blows up it’s on my skills versus my neglect

 

[wngrog]

I probably should have left it all alone but I am skeered of 29 year old rubber and plastic. This way if something blows up it’s on my skills versus my neglect

Yep. Should have left it alone.

Also should have tested the Plumbing before I fully installed everything back on the truck.

Holy crap. Shoot me. The shop cat is not impressed

The metal junction tube has a hole in it. No way to get to it without tearing the truck back apart.

Sure was pretty there for a moment

 

[Grandlooser]

Lol ****. I shouldn't laugh, but have been there too many times. Just think, there's probably something else you should have worked on while you were in there. This is your truck giving you another chance. Time to pull the timing guts apart!

 

[Dustin Messina]

Yep. Should have left it alone.

Also should have tested the Plumbing before I fully installed everything back on the truck.

Holy crap. Shoot me. The shop cat is not impressed
View attachment 2416214
The metal junction tube has a hole in it. No way to get to it without tearing the truck back apart.

Sure was pretty there for a moment

View attachment 2416208

Could be worse.... could have to pull an h55 and tcase again and rebuild it...