The Mule / 73’ with a past? (1 Viewer)

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Lots of love being given to my truck lately!

My solution to my oddball bolt pattern was to just make a nice functional
unit that works with my bolt pattern. Not the quickest, nor the easiest route but I like it.







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Do you have an extension for your tire crank/engine crank? Looks like there may be some interference with how far the receiver sticks out. I had a similar problem, was a PIA to get my spare down as I could only get half a crank, and then would have to re-align the crank handle...and any longer of crank handle and it won't fit under the rear seat.
 
A prime specimen NOS UNICORN 🦄 has left the SKUNK-WORKS pasture for a warmer climate :

- 1973 FJ55 non-usa optional Dark-Pewter option specific package
Flasher Warning switch w/ period correct optional Dark-Pewter option smaller size spec. Knob Sub. Assy. Pull ….

- pre-lubed with full synthetic die-electric grease by the skunk-works to ensure a issue free latching and locking Siamese waffle 🧇 connectors
Experience and good solid 9 wires / Leeds current flow fit and function….


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A recent NOS parts cache acquire : boxes of OEM toyota genuine parts color keyed filaments glass tube fuses
 
Do you have an extension for your tire crank/engine crank? Looks like there may be some interference with how far the receiver sticks out. I had a similar problem, was a PIA to get my spare down as I could only get half a crank, and then would have to re-align the crank handle...and any longer of crank handle and it won't fit under the rear seat.
I’ll have to make an extension as the hitch and the winch both block the use of the hand crank handle.
 
Here is the going back together look. I’ve noticed odd indications I had corrosion issues. After replacing all my cluster gauges with NOS units and swapping all the sensors with NOS and new replacements I still had intermittent full peg readings on the temp and the fuel. This was my starting point.
After I sorted out the panel I installed the proper amperage colored just like factory fuses (also supplied by @ToyotaMatt ) and took a pocket screwdriver and packed the electrical connectors with dialectic grease. Reinstalled and you can see how the insulator is actually needed and making a barrier between the backs of the fuse panel terminal bars and the dash.

Awesome!!

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To be clear, the clear sheet is supplied by Toyota Matt and your fuse block is the original - just cleaned up in the blast cabinet?
 
Been having a very annoying time with a light backfire on decel for months of driving. Sometimes barely any sometimes super loud. Went back through the carb myself this time and didn’t find anything but a small amount of trash making it through the factory filter element. Finally decided the distributor needed to be further inspected. I had it out already and felt the bushing was worn but didn’t think much about it other than it has some miles on it. Well I contacted @4Cruisers John and discussed options and off it went. I cleaned it up before it left alittle with some std finesse of cabinet cleaning. It finally was complete and installed yesterday and ZERO backfires. I’m also attributing some of the issue to partial or fully frozen mechanical advance also found after taking it apart fully.

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