If you were any closer to my place i would help you out with that steering issue,i'm sure you will get it sorted out before the trip.
The Machinist's "Project" Thread: 86' FJ60 [Lots Of Pics]
- Thread starter The Machinist
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- Thread starter
- #402
I'm going to take it down to Comerson's Toy Shop in the morning to see if they can help me out. Worst case scenario, I'll have to get my Dad to let me borrow the Suburban and just park it at the trail head and ride my bike in with a backpacking backpack.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Wow you been doing a lot to the slug lately. Agree with the statement about the knuckle rebuild, definitely a Rite of Passage and one of those things that everyone fears and then when done they say "Well that wasn't bad?! Did I miss something?"
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
Good Job!
- Thread starter
- #405
A little late on posting this here, but Comerson's got my truck fixed a while back. Ended up rebuilding the steering gearbox, and eventually replacing the pump with a NEW Toyota unit. (..after multiple rebuilds of two other pumps....) So now pretty much every steering component has been rebuilt/replaced. Steering knuckle rebuild, new tie rod ends, rebuilt steering gearbox, new pump.
I also mounted those 4Runner wheels, and wrapped with some 265/75/16 Bridgestone Duler Revo 2's that were on sale at Costco. Took it out to the Corral Hollow near Bear Valley, Ca over the weekend to see the aspen trees turning color,... and in search of new wallpapers for my work computer.
Solo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Solo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Solo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Solo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Solo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Solo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Solo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Solo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Solo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Solo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Solo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
I also mounted those 4Runner wheels, and wrapped with some 265/75/16 Bridgestone Duler Revo 2's that were on sale at Costco. Took it out to the Corral Hollow near Bear Valley, Ca over the weekend to see the aspen trees turning color,... and in search of new wallpapers for my work computer.
Solo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrSolo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrSolo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrSolo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrSolo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrSolo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrSolo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrSolo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrSolo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrSolo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrSolo Fall Color Camping Trip by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Great pics dude. Looks like a fun trail whether it was easy or not.
When did you take that dent to the right rear QP? It looks pretty significant
- Thread starter
- #409
Haha... well.. that was 100% my fault. A minor lapse in attention, if you will...
...I backed into an ATV trailer I was towing when I got impatient waiting for my friend to try to get his BMW un-stuck on the sand in Pismo Beach. I forgot I was towing something and backed up and turned like normal. heard a crunch. remembered trailer. felt like an idiot.
In my defense, it was dark, I was tired, and I really wanted to see how far my new lightbar would shoot into the ocean...
The trailer had nice and pointy angle iron corners that put a nice hole in the quarter panel, hence the duct-tape. (matches paint color luckily! lol) Here's the trailer after we made camp.
_DLV5505 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
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Have you tried getting at that dent from inside the car and popping it out? Looks like It might be possible to get your foot in there.
- Thread starter
- #411
Honestly, I haven't really put much effort into trying to fix it, although the vapor return lines for the gas tank make getting a foot in there a tricky proposition.
..Maybe I'll try to prod it a little more this weekend after I do an oil change on it.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
Rims look right! Good photoskills too!
Nice trip Darrell,what no invite?LOL. Glad you got the steering issue fix,BTW i recently moved to a new job in Redwood city so your a lot closer now.Hahaha.
gorgeous pictures, man. those views and that truck is killer!
Great looking ride!
- Thread starter
- #416
@vipergrhd @robustbambi @skidooman Thanks! It was a cool little trip.
@vipergrhd I'll let you know next time I do a trip like that. (probably wont be until spring though; other than pismo) You still working on those Heep's?
@vipergrhd I'll let you know next time I do a trip like that. (probably wont be until spring though; other than pismo) You still working on those Heep's?
- Thread starter
- #417
Radiator, Fan Clutch, Thermostat, and Temperature Sensor replacement Write-Up/How-To
Since my previous radiator developed a crack, and a resulting leak, I figured I'd so a short writeup of changing one out. After being quoted $425 to re-core the original, I decided to take a chance and buy one of the cheaper aluminum radiators available through the aftermarket; I ended up buying the three core offering from CruiserCorps.
When I received the part I was disappointed to find that the box was damaged and that one of the side mounting flanges was slightly bent. I was also slightly annoyed when another member notified me that he had recently purchased the same radiator on EBay for $100 less than what CruiserCorps was charging.
Nevertheless, I got to work installing the new radiator into my truck... it had already been sitting for too long waiting for me to source the parts anyway...
To remove the original radiator, you need to first drain the coolant from the radiator via the petcock at the bottom passenger's side. While that is draining, disconnect and remove the battery and battery tray. There are two bolts for the battery tie down and 4 bolts holding the battery tray to the fender/fender liner. (10mm and 12mm) Go ahead and remove the four bolts holding the fan shroud to the radiator and rest the shroud out of the way on the cooling fan. Next, you will need to remove the six 12mm bolts holding the core support brace to the core support, and the 2 (maybe 3) 10mm bolts and one screw connecting the lower valance, grill, and hood latch.
Once all of that is out of the way, you can begin to remove the grill. Start by loosening the screws securing the headlight surrounds so that you can bend them outward enough to slip the grill tabs past.
DSC_0449 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
This next part is a lot easier with a second set of hands, but is still doable alone; squeeze the push tabs on the grill and gently pull outward, when all of the tabs are released, you can slip the grill past the headlight surrounds and set the grill aside.
DSC_0448 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Now that you have access to the front end, you'll notice that the bolts holding the radiator to the core support are not immediately accessible. To get to them, remove the 4 12mm bolts securing the A/C condenser and carefully move it aside just enough to get to the radiator mount bolts. (also 12mm IIRC)
DSC_0438 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
DSC_0440 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Now there are only two bolts and two hose clamps left before your radiator is free, the two bolts are at the bottom right and left of the radiator; and I believe they too are 12mm. (one side pictured below, single bolt in large washer/bushing) Remove the radiator. Now that the radiator is out of the way you can remove the fan shroud and set it aside.
DSC_0442 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
If you are deciding to change your fan clutch, go ahead and remove the four bolts holding the fan to the thermostatic clutch, then remove the four bolts holding the clutch to the water pump flange. If you have trouble with the pulley spinning while trying to break the bolts loose, have a friend put tension on a rag wrapped around the water pump belt. This would also be a GREAT time to change the water pump if you have any reason to believe that it is in need of a change.
DSC_0446 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Now would be a good time to break out the degreaser and clean up the front end of your frame/engine. In my case I cleaned up the mess that the previously fixed power steering system left, then sprayed a bit of black paint over the areas where the ATF had eaten through the original paint.
DSC_0423 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
DSC_0422 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Next you can move on to changing the thermostat. Simply remove the four 12mm bolts and disconnect the two small hoses on the thermostat housing, change the thermostat, and place the new gasket with a light layer of water pump sealant on the housings. Don't forget to remove an remaining gasket material from the mating surfaces before reassembly. In my case, the parts store did not give me the right gasket and I didn't want to wait a day for them to get one in stock, so I made my own.
DSC_0444 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
IMG_20150419_183124 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
To change the temperature sensor, remove the three bolts on the top of the air filter housing, the three compression latches, and the two bolts holding it to the valve cover and cylinder head. Move it out of the way enough to gain access to the sensor bung that you can find by tracing the thin gage wire from the firewall to the cylinder head in the area behind the carb. Simply remove the old sensor (17mm I think) and replace with the new one; reconnect the wire.
In my case, I found out after a week of scratching my head trying to figure out why it was still overheating that my original water temperature gauge was not working properly. So as a last ditch effort to make it to the annual ValleyHybrids Swap Meet the next day, I bought and installed an aftermarket gauge after work the night before. Turns out the system had been working flawlessly the whole time!
Reassembly is the exact reverse of the above. I also want to note that I decided to use a dab of thread locker on the cooling fan bolts just for a little bit of reassurance. I also put a few strips of adhesive backed foam along the edges of the radiator shroud to keep the steel from rubbing a hole in the new radiator.
When you're burping the air out of the system, I found it really helpful to cut the bottom off of an old 2 liter bottle and use some tape or foam to create a seal that fits the radiator filler neck. Partially filling this bottle with coolant while you run the engine and periodically squeeze the rubber coolant lines make getting all of the air out of the system super easy by raising the highest point in the system; thus making all of the trapped air trend towards it.
DSC_0450 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
Since my previous radiator developed a crack, and a resulting leak, I figured I'd so a short writeup of changing one out. After being quoted $425 to re-core the original, I decided to take a chance and buy one of the cheaper aluminum radiators available through the aftermarket; I ended up buying the three core offering from CruiserCorps.
When I received the part I was disappointed to find that the box was damaged and that one of the side mounting flanges was slightly bent. I was also slightly annoyed when another member notified me that he had recently purchased the same radiator on EBay for $100 less than what CruiserCorps was charging.
Nevertheless, I got to work installing the new radiator into my truck... it had already been sitting for too long waiting for me to source the parts anyway...
To remove the original radiator, you need to first drain the coolant from the radiator via the petcock at the bottom passenger's side. While that is draining, disconnect and remove the battery and battery tray. There are two bolts for the battery tie down and 4 bolts holding the battery tray to the fender/fender liner. (10mm and 12mm) Go ahead and remove the four bolts holding the fan shroud to the radiator and rest the shroud out of the way on the cooling fan. Next, you will need to remove the six 12mm bolts holding the core support brace to the core support, and the 2 (maybe 3) 10mm bolts and one screw connecting the lower valance, grill, and hood latch.
Once all of that is out of the way, you can begin to remove the grill. Start by loosening the screws securing the headlight surrounds so that you can bend them outward enough to slip the grill tabs past.
DSC_0449 by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrThis next part is a lot easier with a second set of hands, but is still doable alone; squeeze the push tabs on the grill and gently pull outward, when all of the tabs are released, you can slip the grill past the headlight surrounds and set the grill aside.
DSC_0448 by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrNow that you have access to the front end, you'll notice that the bolts holding the radiator to the core support are not immediately accessible. To get to them, remove the 4 12mm bolts securing the A/C condenser and carefully move it aside just enough to get to the radiator mount bolts. (also 12mm IIRC)
DSC_0438 by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrDSC_0440 by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrNow there are only two bolts and two hose clamps left before your radiator is free, the two bolts are at the bottom right and left of the radiator; and I believe they too are 12mm. (one side pictured below, single bolt in large washer/bushing) Remove the radiator. Now that the radiator is out of the way you can remove the fan shroud and set it aside.
DSC_0442 by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrIf you are deciding to change your fan clutch, go ahead and remove the four bolts holding the fan to the thermostatic clutch, then remove the four bolts holding the clutch to the water pump flange. If you have trouble with the pulley spinning while trying to break the bolts loose, have a friend put tension on a rag wrapped around the water pump belt. This would also be a GREAT time to change the water pump if you have any reason to believe that it is in need of a change.
DSC_0446 by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrNow would be a good time to break out the degreaser and clean up the front end of your frame/engine. In my case I cleaned up the mess that the previously fixed power steering system left, then sprayed a bit of black paint over the areas where the ATF had eaten through the original paint.
DSC_0423 by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrDSC_0422 by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrNext you can move on to changing the thermostat. Simply remove the four 12mm bolts and disconnect the two small hoses on the thermostat housing, change the thermostat, and place the new gasket with a light layer of water pump sealant on the housings. Don't forget to remove an remaining gasket material from the mating surfaces before reassembly. In my case, the parts store did not give me the right gasket and I didn't want to wait a day for them to get one in stock, so I made my own.
DSC_0444 by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrIMG_20150419_183124 by Darrell Vaughn, on FlickrTo change the temperature sensor, remove the three bolts on the top of the air filter housing, the three compression latches, and the two bolts holding it to the valve cover and cylinder head. Move it out of the way enough to gain access to the sensor bung that you can find by tracing the thin gage wire from the firewall to the cylinder head in the area behind the carb. Simply remove the old sensor (17mm I think) and replace with the new one; reconnect the wire.
In my case, I found out after a week of scratching my head trying to figure out why it was still overheating that my original water temperature gauge was not working properly. So as a last ditch effort to make it to the annual ValleyHybrids Swap Meet the next day, I bought and installed an aftermarket gauge after work the night before. Turns out the system had been working flawlessly the whole time!
Reassembly is the exact reverse of the above. I also want to note that I decided to use a dab of thread locker on the cooling fan bolts just for a little bit of reassurance. I also put a few strips of adhesive backed foam along the edges of the radiator shroud to keep the steel from rubbing a hole in the new radiator.
When you're burping the air out of the system, I found it really helpful to cut the bottom off of an old 2 liter bottle and use some tape or foam to create a seal that fits the radiator filler neck. Partially filling this bottle with coolant while you run the engine and periodically squeeze the rubber coolant lines make getting all of the air out of the system super easy by raising the highest point in the system; thus making all of the trapped air trend towards it.
DSC_0450 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
- Thread starter
- #419
Yes, I forgot to mention that. I removed the thermostat when I was trying to figure out why it was overheating (gauge problem) so I have not put it back in yet.
- Thread starter
- #420
Not good....
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