The KSA Project (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

After reviewing my installation of the brake booster, confirmed it was good; decided to play with the carburetor. Adjusted the idle speed screw on the carburetor and finally, the engine rev's came down; at the every end of the screw. Adjusted the mixture screw to balance it out. It sounds "ok" to me but will still take it to a mechanic to re-adjust the carburetor.

The only problem I'm left with is that the brake light remains on; when I installed the brake booster, I had to release the pin on the pedal and now its just a few cm's off....and the push switch does not get depressed. Tried to remove / adjust the length of the switch but still nothing. Does anyone have any easy tricks?
 
Can you adjust the slip hook on the brake booster? Or is it not an adjustable one?

You have the spring attached?

Slip hook? meaning the fork on brake booster? I would have to remove the brake booster to adjust that; trying not to do that again.

I did connect the spring...after reading your comment. The old spring is not pulling the pedal back enough; it just a little gap!! Thinking maybe replace the spring with a tighter version.
 
Yes the fork some people call it the clevis as well

Is not easily adjustable in the room … a pita to do (if your like me bad back lol) but you can do it inside without removing the whole thing… if you back off all 4 nuts

Less pressure on it all and room to adjust

Another thought … do you still have the rubber pad on the pedal that pushes the switch ?
 
Last edited:
Refer to the fsm and check out the adjustments to your your brake pedal height and brake light switch. Most of the adjustments are made under the dash.

My brake lights would stay on and i adjusted the pedal height to correct the problem.
 
Yes the fork some people call it the clevis as well

Is not easily adjustable in the room … a pita to do (if your like me bad back lol) but you can do it inside without removing the whole thing… if you back off all 4 nuts

Less pressure on it all and room to adjust

Another thought … do you still have the rubber pad on the pedal that pushes the switch ?
Both suggestions are great! Right now, got a piece of cardboard wedged inside :bounce:.

Took it for a spin...and got a screw in the tire!! Just my luck; but...it did not go all the way. Just before reaching home; engine died. I just could not keep it going; it would start up and then puff. Got it towed to a trusted mechanic and watched him strip / clean my carburetor in about an hour!! I was quite amazed at his skills. He also adjusted the idle screw & mixture screws...after I had earlier "fixed" them. New fuel filter installed; and its good.

But still feels as if the engine is rev'ed
 
When I purchased the FJ40, the power steering pump did not work, but the previous owner provided me a new power steering pump. It matched a similar unit I installed on my FJ45. Only visible difference is the connection point of the discharge connection on the pump. Current installed unit (below)
MicrosoftTeams-image (5).jpg


Discharge connection point is on the side; while the new unit is on the back
MicrosoftTeams-image (4).jpg


I think its basically the same unit; would like second opinion?
 
When I purchased the FJ40, the power steering pump did not work, but the previous owner provided me a new power steering pump. It matched a similar unit I installed on my FJ45. Only visible difference is the connection point of the discharge connection on the pump. Current installed unit (below)
View attachment 3199124

Discharge connection point is on the side; while the new unit is on the back
View attachment 3199125

I think its basically the same unit; would like second opinion?
I believe you can swap the reservoir from the old one to the new one.
 
As part of my preventive maintenance plans, I decided to change the radiator hoses. The lower hoses looked particularly suspect; just a matter of time. Hence a good time to do a radiator flush. Boy, was a surprised; looked like the radiator had not been cleaned for 40+ years...

MicrosoftTeams-image (6).jpg


This is breakdown

#​
Date​
Description​
Discharge Fluid​
Fluid Added​
A​
25-12-2022​
Sample from bottom of Radiator
(Fresh coolant added a few days before)
B​
29-12-2022​
Sample from thermostat housing
29-12-2022​
Radiator cleaner added to coolant
1​
30-12-2022​
1st Flush​
Radiator Coolant & CleanerFresh Water
2​
30-12-2022​
2nd Flush​
WaterRadiator Cleaner & Fresh Water
3​
31-12-2022​
3rd Flush​
Radiator Cleaner & WaterFresh Water
4​
2-01-2023​
4th Flush -Sample Missing​
WaterRadiator Cleaner & Fresh Water
5​
4-01-2023​
5th Flush​
Radiator Cleaner & Fresh WaterFresh Water
6​
5-01-2023​
6th Flush​
WaterRadiator Cleaner & Fresh Water

After 6 flushes, its finally beginning to look like its clearing out. Thinking maybe another 2-3 flushes and it might actually be clean. Then I can change the hoses and add fresh coolant. I will also install the thermostat; which had been removed by the PO.
 
After your flushes are complete I recommend using Toyota's OEM pink fluid (the pre-diluted stuff). It's served me well on my FJ40 and FJ75.
Pink??? I thought it was green one!!! What's the difference.
 
Pink??? I thought it was green one!!! What's the difference.
Toyota OEM coolant is either red (undiluted) or pink (diluted). I buy the pre-diluted stuff. Toyota doesn’t make a green fluid.

The difference is probably negligible and unimportant in our old rigs… but it’s a great coolant and I’ve never had to mess around with dilution ratios and whatnot.
 
wow, I love the seats and door cards! But you are brave painting your rig dark grey in that heat!
Thank you buddy. It not the heat that kills ...its the dust. Even a short drive and there's a layer of sand on it...and it shows. but headed back to Canada soon, where its not dust / hot!
 
Flushing continues; its getting better; but still dirty. I'm struggling with a carburetor issue; mainly the solenoid valve. Ordered a new solenoid valve from CCOT ($16) but it would take a few weeks to get here. Thinking I might as well purchase a new OEM carburetor.

I have also been struggling with getting the gears to mush properly. It typically takes a little time to get the gear shift into the gear and all I can do is hold the clutch much longer. Other times I have to press it again. It is very rough and many times i catch the gear. Think the plate is on its last legs. So decided to order a new clutch plate & assembly from CCOT. Lets see how long that takes to get here.
 
Just curious, why aren’t you getting your OEM parts from Partsouq.com? They’re in the UAE, you’d probably get your parts the next day! Their prices are very reasonable.
They are usually my first choice; but they did not have solenoid valves / carburetors. They had the clutch plate, but I opted to replace the entire assembly. Labour is cheap here so if you're going to open it up; might as well replace it all.

I'm now short of time...moving back to Toronto in March :bounce:. Need to make sure everything is ok on this rig cause its the only thing I'm taking.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom