Builds The Gray Ghost - My slow build

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Xpnsv72fj

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 26, 2014
Threads
43
Messages
797
Location
Hanover VA
First a little back ground on me, I'm a GSM at a Toyota dealership here in VA. So the other day I got a call on a 89 LC that was in service that a lady wanted to sell. I'm the only cruiser head here so whenever an older one comes in I get the call. So I've never owned a 60 series and the values are all over the place.

Here some info about the LC

2 owner current owner has had it since 98
148K
The lady gave me every service she had done since 98.
The LC has rust, not a ton but it's there. I own a 40 so I know if I can see it there is more lurking underneath. The frame is solid with the exception of the very far back channel which is kinda rough. Other than that it looks pretty solid all the way around. No smoke on startup but it does need a rear main seal and the birfield joints need service.

I'll post a few pictures after this post.

So instead of starting a new thread I decided to edit this one and will document the progress on the 60 as I go. First-order on business is to baseline the 60 and fix what I know is going on, so Monday I'll call cruiser outfitters and get some stuff ordered. My wife is actually really excited about the 60 because she can drive it.

Goal for now

Rear main seal
Tie Rods
Knuckle Rebuild
Marlin crawler inner seals
OME lift
Rust clean up and frame spray
New rear heater lines( if I can find them)

Tires-BFG KO2 on 40 steel wheels


I look forward to learning about the 62
 
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I’ll get more shot up later today

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So here is the deal. In the east these are harder to find. Some ask a premium. West coast guys will tell you 2K. East coast guys will tell you,
If the frame is good, the body rust minimal and it runs and drives, 6-8K. Sounds like you need new C channels, this can be fixed, but is a messy job.
I am guessing it has a safety inspection done. As well looks to have been cared for. How is the interior? any major leaks?

So I would figure 5-7K in that shape here in Virginia.

Low mileage to me does not mean much any more other than it seems low.
These vehicles are meant to be driven, low also means other issues. At about 5400 miles per year, the engine needs a good run. I bet some seals are just dry. It helps in resale value for people who do not know better. For those who do, their could be a larger investment in fixing parts that are just, well...old.

Also remember while the engines on these are solid, the rest of the vehicle falls apart around it. Any older Japanese or British vehicle owner should know this.

If the mechanical's have been taken care of that is more important at this point.

I hold to 5-7K
 
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agree^^^
 
Considering it’s already had one body job done and the filler is falling off I’d probably steer clear unless it’s very very cheap.
 
Thanks for the reply's everyone, I decided to pick it up and got it for $2000. I figure I can't get hurt but so bad at that number and I've always wanted one. At this point, I've spent way too much money on the 40 to ever take it off-road or out in the snow so I figure this is a good compromise. I really enjoy messing around with the LC's and fixing them up as needed. I will most likely toss a lift on it and some tires but other than that I'll just drive it and fix it up as needed.

Thanks, Josh
 
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At $2K you can not go wrong. You have the beginnings of visual signs of rot all around it seems.
At $2K you can not go wrong. If you take measures to stop rust and get it mechanically sound.
At $2K you can not go wrong. Base line it, clean it up, set it up how you like it and don't ever expect it to look better without a good investment

Drive the hell out of it :)
 
At $2K you can not go wrong. You have the beginnings of visual signs of rot all around it seems.
At $2K you can not go wrong. If you take measures to stop rust and get it mechanically sound.
At $2K you can not go wrong. Base line it, clean it up, set it up how you like it and don't ever expect it to look better without a good investment

Drive the hell out of it :)[/QUOTe

Thanks that what I figured, I can weld and have done all the body work on my 40 so if it came to that I can do it but I'm not as concerned at this point. I'll do what I can to stop the rust but like you said I'll base line it and drive it.

Josh
 
I would be in the 3-4k camp
 
Few more pictures

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A very typical truck, and a solid deal at $2K. Nice!
 
2K in the east....you stole that for sure. Body work...rust can be fixed....if you can do it yourself very cheaply.
 

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