The Coleman Thread

[Cruiserdrew]

Do you think this cap is shot? How do they fail? It looks like it needs to hold air so I guess that the gaskets go out? I will check Academy Sports and our local hardware store first. I hate to enter Wal-Mart unless all others have failed.

The cap gasket is 44 years old. It can be replaced. I'd get a new brass cap, and when you have time, replace the gasket on this one. Old Coleman Parts sells serviced old 3 piece caps. Worth a shot too.

This one will work, for $3

OldColemanParts.com :: Lantern Parts :: Filler Cap Dark gray

I may have the proper gasket for your cap, but so does OCP.

Here is the gasket you need, but replacing it is a bit of a pain:

OldColemanParts.com :: Lantern Parts :: Filler Cap Gasket One Piece

 

[TXSunDevil]

Ok great to know there are parts available. This one doesn't look too bad. I oiled the cap gasket after inspection. I did not see any cracks. The leather in the pump is shot. Ill see about picking up some gaskets.

 

[JohnVee]

The cap gasket is 44 years old. It can be replaced.

You're killing me. I'm also 2-73. And here I thought I was worth something.

@TXSunDevil I might be interested in that thing if you get tired of it.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

The leather can almost always be salvaged by soaking in oil overnight. They're not expensive but rather than wait for parts you can try and revive it. If the cap holds air it's good. I actually cut my own cap gaskets out of sheet gasket material but I have a punch set and lots of Coleman.

It's a great stove. Nice and small and will run forever with a little maintenance. I've got a 425 no letter and an A or B I think plus the first Coleman I ever bought was a 425 from WalMart. If you can still find a Coleman fuel stove on the shelf new they're $75 so score. Enjoy.

Eric

 

[Prairie Swamp]

While we're on the topic of 425s. This is my no letter 425. 1949 or 50 I think. They're the perfect stove for most trips. If you're cooking for a crowd go for a 426!

 

[TXSunDevil]

The leather can almost always be salvaged by soaking in oil overnight. They're not expensive but rather than wait for parts you can try and revive it. If the cap holds air it's good. I actually cut my own cap gaskets out of sheet gasket material but I have a punch set and lots of Coleman.

It's a great stove. Nice and small and will run forever with a little maintenance. I've got a 425 no letter and an A or B I think plus the first Coleman I ever bought was a 425 from WalMart. If you can still find a Coleman fuel stove on the shelf new they're $75 so score. Enjoy.

Eric

Ok well I figured I would try it out. I oiled the cap gasket and the pump cup. I couldn't tell if it was a black leather or some other type of material. I soaked it in oil and wiped some oil down the pump tube. I pumped it up and the tank held air. I probably pumped 45 times and it bled air for awhile. I went ahead and pumped it up and closed the valve. I will check in the morning to see if I still have pressure. Should I expect it to hold pressure overnight? I will pick up some fuel tomorrow and fire it up and see what happens.

 

[4WD Swagman]

Ok well I figured I would try it out. I oiled the cap gasket and the pump cup. I couldn't tell if it was a black leather or some other type of material. I soaked it in oil and wiped some oil down the pump tube. I pumped it up and the tank held air. I probably pumped 45 times and it bled air for awhile. I went ahead and pumped it up and closed the valve. I will check in the morning to see if I still have pressure. Should I expect it to hold pressure overnight? I will pick up some fuel tomorrow and fire it up and see what happens.

My 425E is about two years younger than yours (12 75). I'm still using the original gasket. I gave it a good hit with sewing machine oil and it worked for a few days. Then I soaked it overnight and it's been working great since. Mine holds pressure from use to use so after soaking your gasket for so long yours should do the same.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Ok well I figured I would try it out. I oiled the cap gasket and the pump cup. I couldn't tell if it was a black leather or some other type of material. I soaked it in oil and wiped some oil down the pump tube. I pumped it up and the tank held air. I probably pumped 45 times and it bled air for awhile. I went ahead and pumped it up and closed the valve. I will check in the morning to see if I still have pressure. Should I expect it to hold pressure overnight? I will pick up some fuel tomorrow and fire it up and see what happens.

Good progress. There's 2 things that hold the air in the tank. When you turn the pump knob clockwise that shuts a valve to keep the air in the tank, but there's also a simple little check valve in the bottom of the pump tube. The check valve can hold the air but sometimes they get a little gunked up. You pretty much need a special tool to get it out.

The pump knob/shaft should hold air basically forever. If the check valve is leaking a little (sounds like it might) you can run the stove that way as long as the pump shaft seals. If the check valve continues to leak you can shoot some carb cleaner or similar down the pump tube, and then put the pump back in the tube and force the carb cleaner through the check valve. Might clean it out or simply using it frequently might break it free.

 

[TXSunDevil]

Ok I just went out and opened up the valve. It held air overnight. I do not remember how many times I pumped it up before I closed it but it still was pressurized. I will get some fuel today and report back after work.

 

[TXSunDevil]

I have just been cursing at this thing for 30 minutes trying to get it started. I finally figured out the stick end of the trim lever needs to be facing up during start up. Here is where I am. I have filled the tank completely. I have tried it with 1/4 1/3 1/2 2/3 and now a full thank of fuel. I pump 50 times. It feels like it is building pressure. I turn the pump 1/2 turn to the right. Open the valve. I hear gas coming out the burner. It lights 360 degrees around the burner for about 10 seconds then goes out. I did get it to light a tall yellow flame but once I turned the trim lever it turned blue and eventually went out after a minute or so. Now I can't get the tall flame to reappear. I can still hear gas coming out for about 10 seconds then it stops completely. I have pressured up the tank and used soap bubbles on the cap and around the pump to ensure there are no air leaks. I know this stove has been setting for at least 10 years according to the previous owner.

 

[Dharma Dude]

I have just been cursing at this thing for 30 minutes trying to get it started. I finally figured out the stick end of the trim lever needs to be facing up during start up. Here is where I am. I have filled the tank completely. I have tried it with 1/4 1/3 1/2 2/3 and now a full thank of fuel. I pump 50 times. It feels like it is building pressure. I turn the pump 1/2 turn to the right. Open the valve. I hear gas coming out the burner. It lights 360 degrees around the burner for about 10 seconds then goes out. I did get it to light a tall yellow flame but once I turned the trim lever it turned blue and eventually went out after a minute or so. Now I can't get the tall flame to reappear. I can still hear gas coming out for about 10 seconds then it stops completely. I have pressured up the tank and used soap bubbles on the cap and around the pump to ensure there are no air leaks. I know this stove has been setting for at least 10 years according to the previous owner.

I find that the coleman stove work better with priming. On cold mornings, I have found priming the only reliable way to light the stove.
Fuel doesn't completely gasifies in a cold generator. Priming warms the generator to create a reliable, smooth flow of gas.

Here is how I do it:

• Pump up the tank
• Take the tank out, and squirt some gas into the burner assembly so the whole assembly is a bit wet. Don't overdo it or you get a flare-up.
• Close the value and put the tank back.
• Light the fuel in the assembly
• The flames will warm up the generator which lie directly over the assembly
• Just before the flames die out, open the valve steadily until you get a good flame.
• If it flares yellow, back the valve and then open again steadily
• I usually let it burn at a lower setting for a minute so that the everything comes up to proper operating temperature
• Then crank it up and you'll get a nice blue flame.

You don't need to prime a hot stove, i.e. recently lit. Just when you first light it or whenever the generator has gotten cold.

 

[TXSunDevil]

I just pulled out the orifice, spring and some type of needle. I hit them all with some carb cleaner.

According to my iPhone we have a 19mph wind. That can't be helping. I took it inside and lit it. It finally started and stayed running. It had a good blue flame that got bigger and smaller as I turned it up and down. I lit the left burner and independently adjusted it with the side key. I let it run for 5 minutes indoors. I turned it off and took it back outside. I am going to let it cool and fire it up again when it gets dark and y'all can evaluate the flame. Generally do you need to keep pumping it after the initial 40-50 pumps?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Here's a couple of ideas:

1-The lighting lever is critical. It uses up some of the compressed air in the tank to mix more air with the fuel to get things going. After you turn it down, pump the tank back up.

2-Clear out the manifold with a frayed wire, or a bottle brush or something similar. Very often there are stray spider webs that block the flow of gas and cause it to run rich or not at all.

3-I sometimes light the stove with a propane torch. This is not a purist approved method, but if you heat the generator withe the propane torch, then open the valve, you will vaporize some gasoline and it will go.

4-Your generator may be clogged. Just the way it is, you can clean it out and wire brush out the spring, or just replace. To clean it requires a significant disassembly but it isn't hard or dangerous. (edit-looks like you got to that! and it looks pretty good)

5-More serious, your internal pick up may be gummed up. It's got 40 years of gasoline so anything could have happened. This is not a hard fix, but it requires removing the valve from the tank (extremely gently), and cleaning it with a wire or brake cleaner or what ever. DO the easy stuff first.

It's going to be easy and it's going to work great.

 

[TXSunDevil]

My $5 Coleman is now humming along. I have started and stopped it 3 different times. I let it cool down completely 2 times and it started right back up. I did pump a few times after turning the trim switch down. I let it run for 5-10 minutes each time and it purred right along. There are wind gusts of over 20 mph currently and I was able to light it up. Do these flames look OK? This is the right burner on full blast.


And this is both of the burners on full blast at the same time.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Looks good . Nice work. Run it!

 

[g-man]

I just pulled out the orifice, spring and some type of needle. I hit them all with some carb cleaner.

I did the same to mine today and it made a big difference. Much more flame. I soaked my parts in lacquer thinner, took some steel wool to the rod, wire brushed the tube and spring, stuck a small wire in the orifice until I could see a nice round hole thru the pipe. I found this site helpful:

How to Rebuild a Coleman® Two or Three Burner Stove: Lesson One, Disassembly: Old Town Coleman

 

[roma042987]

Picked up this gem today off of Craigslist for $40 it's never been fired. Looks like it's from April of 77 same year as my 40.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Super "like" @roma042987 . A time capsule from 1977. That stove will last you the rest of your camping life.

In this era, Coleman was the best, and built their stuff accordingly. Still the best today. Use it.

 

[roma042987]

Been wanting to add a two burner to my camping setup for a while. Still want to get my grubby fingers on a centennial 502a but they are pricey buggers. I posted some photos of some of my other Colemans earlier but my favorite lantern of all is this jewel I picked up about a year ago. The case is nearly as cool as the lantern itself. Just waiting on day I have a remote cabin up in The Rockies so I can hang it up next to my nickel plated coach gun

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Here is some ugly Coleman. D 64. December 1964. Sky blue (nice) with Gold Bond yellow (yikes). Not a looker but a good running stove. Still running on vintage Coleman fuel.

Check valve needed deep cleaning, cap gasket and pump leather. Good as new. This one is going to Rubithon this year.

Still, it's 53 years old and doesn't need much.