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Builds The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RWBeringer4x4
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Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Maybe for the axle and knuckle work 7" is fine. I was in the tranny and wished I had a longer one as I was trying to remove the idle reverse shaft. I scarred up the inner bushing on the reverse gear with a steel punch, but it was the only way at the time. Now, I'm ready if I need that in the future.
Gap tool to measure factory tolerances where needed. Again, transfer case and tranny. You were asking about the knuckle project. I got carried away, sorry.
Lots of hobbies. Little time to practice any. Squeezing this one in though.
- Thread starter
- #283
Total Diff overhaul?
Ok all,
Another question, since I will have the axles out:
How often to differential bearings go bad? Initially, I planned on simply resealing the differential, as I would have to pull the diff cover to get the axles out anyway, and I've got a leak from the front differential gasket...
This truck has been in 4WD exactly once, for about 5 minutes after I had the transfercase replaced, and I didn't hear anything whining or squealing from the front.
Obviously, I'm a rookie, and have not overhauled a diff (or an axle for that matter). I can follow a FSM and probably figure it out, but do you think it's a necessary expenditure of $120 for the overhaul kit, or should I just buy the seals, and possibly some shims to adjust preload and be done?
Given that this truck spends the vast majority of its time in 2WD hi, on the road - should I bother overhauling the front diff at all? What about the rear, when it comes time to rebuild the rear axle this summer?
I know the short answer is "while the axle is out of the truck, might as well go to town" but at the same time, it's more time, and money, and I'm guessing it ain't broke (so why fix it?)...Is this somewhere where it is easy to do more harm than good? Thoughts?
Ok all,
Another question, since I will have the axles out:
How often to differential bearings go bad? Initially, I planned on simply resealing the differential, as I would have to pull the diff cover to get the axles out anyway, and I've got a leak from the front differential gasket...
This truck has been in 4WD exactly once, for about 5 minutes after I had the transfercase replaced, and I didn't hear anything whining or squealing from the front.
Obviously, I'm a rookie, and have not overhauled a diff (or an axle for that matter). I can follow a FSM and probably figure it out, but do you think it's a necessary expenditure of $120 for the overhaul kit, or should I just buy the seals, and possibly some shims to adjust preload and be done?
Given that this truck spends the vast majority of its time in 2WD hi, on the road - should I bother overhauling the front diff at all? What about the rear, when it comes time to rebuild the rear axle this summer?
I know the short answer is "while the axle is out of the truck, might as well go to town" but at the same time, it's more time, and money, and I'm guessing it ain't broke (so why fix it?)...Is this somewhere where it is easy to do more harm than good? Thoughts?
- Thread starter
- #284
It's Christmas...for my truck!
First shipment of parts for this knuckle swap has been ordered from Kurt. They should be on the way as soon as he gets the bearings back in stock.
I decided not to go through with an entire differential overhaul while I have it out. I'll just reset the lash, if necessary, and replace all the seals. I may swap the front and rear to get the more abused differential out of harm's way for a while...On that note, on order:
Disc Brake Knuckle Rebuild Kit (Timken Bearings)
Marlin Inner Axle Seals
Marlin Pinion Seal
Replacenent Pinion Nut
Paper Differential Gasket
54mm hub socket
replacement C-clips
Marlin backing plate delete Kit
Now, I just need to find a donor axle!
I'm hoping "Santa" is good to me over the Holidays, and I land a couple of the necessary tools I'm still missing...
In addition, I ordered a 1-inch drop pitman arm, to match the taper of the SAE draglink end I bought from Kurt when I has the power steering rebuilt - along with a replacement nut and lock washer.
Chomping at the bit to get started! It's really too bad there is a strange absence of 60-series axles floating around the greater Delmarva region. I have a line on a couple, hopefully one of them come through for me!
First shipment of parts for this knuckle swap has been ordered from Kurt. They should be on the way as soon as he gets the bearings back in stock.
I decided not to go through with an entire differential overhaul while I have it out. I'll just reset the lash, if necessary, and replace all the seals. I may swap the front and rear to get the more abused differential out of harm's way for a while...On that note, on order:
Disc Brake Knuckle Rebuild Kit (Timken Bearings)
Marlin Inner Axle Seals
Marlin Pinion Seal
Replacenent Pinion Nut
Paper Differential Gasket
54mm hub socket
replacement C-clips
Marlin backing plate delete Kit
Now, I just need to find a donor axle!
I'm hoping "Santa" is good to me over the Holidays, and I land a couple of the necessary tools I'm still missing...In addition, I ordered a 1-inch drop pitman arm, to match the taper of the SAE draglink end I bought from Kurt when I has the power steering rebuilt - along with a replacement nut and lock washer.
Chomping at the bit to get started! It's really too bad there is a strange absence of 60-series axles floating around the greater Delmarva region. I have a line on a couple, hopefully one of them come through for me!
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
First shipment of parts for this knuckle swap has been ordered from Kurt. They should be on the way as soon as he gets the bearings back in stock. I decided not to go through with an entire differential overhaul while I have it out. I'll just reset the lash, if necessary, and replace all the seals. I may swap the front and rear to get the more abused differential out of harm's way for a while...On that note, on order: Disc Brake Knuckle Rebuild Kit (Timken Bearings) Marlin Inner Axle Seals Marlin Pinion Seal Replacenent Pinion Nut Paper Differential Gasket 54mm hub socket replacement C-clips Marlin backing plate delete Kit Now, I just need to find a donor axle!
Hey - me too! Well, knuckle rebuild x 2 (Timken, should have been received today by Kurt), diff bearings & rebuild kit x 2, 54 mm socket, c clips, drum pads, drum hardware... Should I do a backing plate delete while I'm there? Pros of that?
Should I have done Marlin seals? Does Kurt have those?
- Thread starter
- #286
From what I have heard, the marlin inner axle seals are the way to go - they are a "double seal" design and most report them holding up better than the OEM seals. That said, the OEM seals have a good reputation as well...so I don't think you can really go wrong either way...
Regarding the backing plate delete - this is a (mostly) aesthetic thing, from what I can tell, and may be unique to 60-series knuckles. My understanding is the backing plate can trap mud/dirt which causes them to rust out anyway. They can also trap rocks against your rotors and score them in rare cases...that said, I feel like most people do it simply because they like the "clean" look of a rotor with no backing plate.
Disadvantage? The backing plate serves as a bracket/support between the caliper hard line and the soft line running from axle to knuckle. When you remove it, you remove the junction and have to find a way to plumb your brake lines to the knuckles. Most forego the hard caliper line altogether, and run a longer soft line straight from the axle to the caliper, then support it with a bracket welded to the axle. That is my plan, and I'm sticking to it!
Take a look at Claudia's 60-series conversion for a good example (I think that's where I saw this).
Again, this may all be entirely useless information if the 40-series disc brake knuckle differs significantly from the 60-series...
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
Good info Rick, thanks. I'll check out the backing plate delete.
Happy thanksgiving. Pull for Auburn for me.
Happy thanksgiving. Pull for Auburn for me.
- Thread starter
- #288
Merry Christmas to my truck! New seals, bearings, and other parts arrived from Kurt. Old FJ62 disc brakes were picked up from Stumpalama here on MUD.
Stump also provided some fine spline birfields to go along with it - already packed, and mar-tacked.
Stump also provided some fine spline birfields to go along with it - already packed, and mar-tacked.
- Thread starter
- #289
Started digging into it tonight, and getting everything torn down and cleaned up. What a mess! Whoever recommended the spatula was absolutely right...
Removed a ton of grease, 3 cocoons, 2 spiders, and about 15 dead stink bugs...
This is about as far as I got... Now The questions:
Do I have to knock all the hub studs out to remove the brake rotor? Seems like that is the case. I'm assuming I should replace the studs if I do...is this a job for the BFH?
Removed a ton of grease, 3 cocoons, 2 spiders, and about 15 dead stink bugs...
This is about as far as I got... Now The questions:
Do I have to knock all the hub studs out to remove the brake rotor? Seems like that is the case. I'm assuming I should replace the studs if I do...is this a job for the BFH?
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- Thread starter
- #290
Second: is this a seal? Considered scraping it off but it seems like it is on there pretty good... I'm thinking it is a seal though...
- Thread starter
- #291
Made some progress cleaning up the knuckle parts. So far, I've disassembled the knuckles and brakes, done cursory degreasing, then cleaned up the steering arms, etc. using Easy-Off oven cleaner. Things seem to be in pretty decent shape. The steering arms cleaned up nicely. The knuckles are going to be MUCH more of a pain!
So, in terms of time: I've got about 2 hours in general disassembly of the knuckles, an hour in spatula degreasing, then a 2 hour soak in easy off, and about an hour of parts scrubbing with a wire brush...
So, in terms of time: I've got about 2 hours in general disassembly of the knuckles, an hour in spatula degreasing, then a 2 hour soak in easy off, and about an hour of parts scrubbing with a wire brush...
- Thread starter
- #292
The only point of potential concern, so far, is some pitting here. Not sure if that is a big deal or not...
Pitting on the bottom trunion bearing shaft just means that there was water or just moisture in the housing at some time. That is no big deal. Keep up the good work.
Cdaniel
Undocumented Mechanic-I Am Not CDAN
I wouldn't worry about pitting on those parts. Do make sure those machined shim surfaces are free of burrs created by previous owner attempts to remove them by wedging something between the knuckle/arm or cap. Any burr can be filed flat easy enough.
- Thread starter
- #295
Thanks guys - the only issue I'm running into is getting the studs out if the hubs/calipers. I've doused them in penetrating oil, mushroomed a drift entirely hammering on them with a 4lb sledge, and the things wouldn't budge. I'll have to find a press I can borrow.
Also - getting the grease out of the interior of the knuckle is slow going as well...normally wouldn't bother, but want to get a coat of paint on them. I can just see some grease from inside getting on the outside during paint and screwing up the adhesion.
Also - getting the grease out of the interior of the knuckle is slow going as well...normally wouldn't bother, but want to get a coat of paint on them. I can just see some grease from inside getting on the outside during paint and screwing up the adhesion.
- Thread starter
- #296
Bought some part# SB0 Starter Bushings, which will be used to adapt the 60 series steering arms to my 40 series tie rod ends. Considered upgrading to 80 series stuff, but my TRE's are literally 6 months old, and have about 60 miles on them...
I bought 4, since I will probably mushroom at least one getting them seated.
I've heard tell of these starter bushings failing or wallowing out (since they're brass) but it seems like, in general, most folks are happy with them. Certainly cheaper at $2.00 each than the $15 steel shims that are available for this purpose. Hopefully I don't wind up regretting this decision!
I bought 4, since I will probably mushroom at least one getting them seated.
I've heard tell of these starter bushings failing or wallowing out (since they're brass) but it seems like, in general, most folks are happy with them. Certainly cheaper at $2.00 each than the $15 steel shims that are available for this purpose. Hopefully I don't wind up regretting this decision!
You should scrape off that paper gasket or wire wheel it off best you can. Want a nice smooth surface for a new gasket. You will need to press the hub studs out using either a press or sometimes a c clamp will work. Hammer and drift will not. Personally I would use the steel bushings, just seems more betterer.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40
- Thread starter
- #298
Yeah, wire wheeling is still to come, right now just focused on getting all the heavy grease and gunk off. Those paper gaskets really get stuck though - a wheel (or at least a brush) will definitely be necessary. I guess is the bushing fails, I'll go to the steel shims.
- Thread starter
- #299
Slow progress - just when you think you got the last of the grease...it keeps coming!
2-3 coats of easy off, followed by blasting with parts cleaner, and the knuckles are starting to look like knuckles. I'll still need to wire wheel everything to get rust/residual paper gasket off the seal surfaces.
There is some pitting on the surfaces. Not sure if I should be concerned or not...
There is also a nasty rust deposit on on of the shim surfaces - I'm hoping it will file/wire wheel off. That said, the rust is where the shim doesn't sit, so I'm not overly concerned. I also think it will buff down. Thoughts? Concerns?
2-3 coats of easy off, followed by blasting with parts cleaner, and the knuckles are starting to look like knuckles. I'll still need to wire wheel everything to get rust/residual paper gasket off the seal surfaces.
There is some pitting on the surfaces. Not sure if I should be concerned or not...
There is also a nasty rust deposit on on of the shim surfaces - I'm hoping it will file/wire wheel off. That said, the rust is where the shim doesn't sit, so I'm not overly concerned. I also think it will buff down. Thoughts? Concerns?
- Thread starter
- #300
Started disassembling the locking hubs tonight as well. I'm wondering how far I should take this? Do folks typically remove all the snap rings and fully dissassemble, or do they just clean up the seal surface, replace the gasket and move on?
There's some definite birf soup in one, so I'm thinking I might disassemble and clean. After the knuckles, degreasing these things will seem like a cake walk!
There's some definite birf soup in one, so I'm thinking I might disassemble and clean. After the knuckles, degreasing these things will seem like a cake walk!
