Builds The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota

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So I took some shots of my radiator last night - something just doesn't seem right about it...every FJ40 rad I have seen has the fill cap "off-set" from the top of the radiator. Mine is built into it.

I think this was stock, but it looks like the original cap/fill neck was cut off, plugged, and a new one drilled and installed on the other side of the radiator.

What do you all think? More importantly - WHY would this have been done? Better hose routing?

Don't mind the drippage, I'd just added antifreeze.
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Second update: Got the truck aligned this morning after the new shackles.

Toe-in was set to 3/16in

Caster was measured at +0.3* and +0.1.* I'm sure this is due to the 3/4in longer shackles I installed. Steering doesn't self-center out of turns still, but WOW what a difference unbent shackles and fresh bushings make. The Clustertruck bounces like it should now! :bounce:

When I drop the front Axle for disc brakes this winter, I'll install shims. My understanding is that Saginaw power steering wants a little more caster than stock, manual steering.

Should I go with 2-degree shims, or 4-degree shims? Any thoughts and opinions would be appreciated!
 
Well, the truck survived the 40 mile trip to its new home in Chesapeake City today. It did remarkably well. I did notice, however, that I lost about 2/3 of my the brake fluid in my rear brake reservoir...Luckily, brakes were the next thing on the list, and thankfully, they didn't leak badly enough to leave me brake-less on the drive from DE to MD!

The truck will be laid up for most of the rest of the winter while I collect parts for the 60-series knuckle swap. Along with it, I'll install all new brake lines, a new master cylinder, and rebuild the rear drums.
 
Glad you made it "home" safe Rick...Now get to work!

For the record, I would have liked to be the chaser vehicle, glad you didn't need one though.
Mike
 
Glad you made it "home" safe Rick...Now get to work!

For the record, I would have liked to be the chaser vehicle, glad you didn't need one though.
Mike

Actually I made the trip without an escort! My friend who was supposed to be following with my spare roofs and roof rack had his truck totaled by a drunk driver on Thursday - he's ok but obviously the pickup is out of commission. Made things a little nerve racking but the truck ran pretty well. Didn't overheat, oil pressure looked good, only issue is that the idle still creeps up from 750 to about 900 but that's the carb...

So, back to work! Collecting brake parts and 60 knuckles to keep me busy this winter - hoping to get them all swapped over around March.
 
FJ60 Brake Swap/Axle & Brake Rebuild Parts List

Now that the truck has been relocated, it is time to start collecting parts for the brake swap and rebuild of both axles. I'm hoping to have the front axle rebuilt by March, and the rear rebuilt shortly thereafter.

I have decided to stick with rear drums, and simply rebuild the rear axle in its stock configuration - I don't feel like further complicating matters with a proportioning valve, etc. to manage the balancing issues associated with converting to rear discs.

Here is the anticipated parts list, so far:

FRONT AXLE:
* Donor FJ60/62 Axle - Have a line on a couple of these, just saving my pennies to pick one of them up!
* Starter Bushings to insert into FJ60 steering arms (to use them with stock 40-series Tie Rod Ends)
* Front Knuckle/Axle Overhaul Kit w/ Marlin Eco Seals and Wheel Bearings for FJ60 (Kurt?)
* Full set of replacement Differential/Pinion Seals
* Brake Backing Plate Eliminator Spacers
* Weld-on Tombstone anchors for Soft Lines
* New Wheel Studs (necessary?)

REAR AXLE:
* Rear Axle Overhaul Kit (Kurt?) with replacement bearings
* Complete set of Differential and Pinion Seals
* New Wheel Studs (necessary??)

BRAKES:
* FJ60 or FZJ80 Brake Master Cylinder (Any opinions, here?)
* Full set of replacement Brake Hard Lines (or bend my own)
* Fresh FJ60/62 Rotors, Calipers, and Pads (using the donor axle calipers as cores)
* Replacement Soft lines
* Replacement Wheel Cylinders for rear Drums
* New Drums (or turn the old ones)
* Any necessary replacement drum brake hardware

I'm also planning on knocking out a couple of continuing issues: for example, replacing the Pitman Arm with one of the same taper, replacing the leaking Steering Stabilizer, and installing some 2 degree caster shims.

The plan is to actually remove the axles from my 40, and get a coat of paint on them at the same time.

QUESTIONS:

1. Am I forgetting anything major?
2. How would going to a larger piston FZJ80 Master Cylinder affect the brake balance between FJ60 discs and rear drums? Does it make more sense to just use an FJ60 cylinder?
3. While the axle is out, is there anything else I should address?
4. When removing the front axle - can I just disconnect the U-bolts and lift it off the springs, or will this cause the springs to invert?
5. Is replacing the wheel studs a good idea? I have read it's a bad idea to "pull" the studs into the hub using an impact wrench and a lug nut - what is the alternative method? A press?
 
Hey Rick, your list looks to be fairly comprehensive as far as supplies and upgrades go. If you are replacing the pinion seals, I would be prepared to check, and reset if need be, the pinion pre-load and gear lash of the diffs. It's never going to be easier than when they are out of the axle housing, might as well be proactive.

As far as your questions go:

1. It doesn't look like you are forgetting anything, but there will ALWAYS be things that pop up along the way to throw you off. Just budgeting a bit extra will help overcome them.

2. I can't answer directly about the 80 master, but a larger piston doesn't necessarily mean more braking power. Actually, it would just move more fluid at a lower pressure. That's why folks change out the clutch master for a larger one, it moves the slave further with the same stroke. But you don't need as much mechanical advantage with the clutch. I think from the factory the larger bore masters are matched with boosters that supply more assist. If it were me, I would probably go with the 60 master.

3. With the work you are planning, you will be completely going through each axle pretty thoroughly. Between dis-assembly, cleaning/painting, and re-assembly, you will be covering every inch of the axles, aside from the differentials needing attention, you should be solid.

4, Removing the axles will require removing the bolt from the spring eye (shackle end in your case), and the ubolts to free them (and of course brake lines, drive lines, steering, etc). I have left the tires on so I could roll them out from under the truck, or set them on a moving dolly, because they are pretty heavy things. But all in all, pretty straight forward to get them removed.

5, I just replaced all my lug studs so I could bolt on a set of alloy wheels (the stock studs were too short). I didn't realize just how worn the threads were on the old ones until I threaded fresh lug nuts on fresh studs, but it was a world of difference. For the $80 or so I spent on the project, I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. And a press is the appropriate way to install the studs, but it really depends on how much pressure it takes to get the knurling of the stud to seat in the hub. If you can "pull" them into place with only using 40 or 50 Lbs of torque, you aren't stretching the stud and causing it any real harm. If you have to apply as much, or more torque than it requires to attach the wheel, I would definitely use a press. I would also say that if I had the axles all broken down to do the rebuild/refresh you are going to do, I would just find someone with a press and be done with it.


Hope that helps some. I'm going to be running my rig this winter, now that I can, but I will also have to do a knuckle job on it to fix the leaking inner axle seals. I plan on pulling the front just as you are so I can clean and paint it at that time, so we aren't that far apart. I don't have to change knuckles, but the service will be about the same. I look forward to seeing the progress you make with the the old ClusterTruck.


lefty b
 
Hey Rick, your list looks to be fairly comprehensive as far as supplies and upgrades go. If you are replacing the pinion seals, I would be prepared to check, and reset if need be, the pinion pre-load and gear lash of the diffs. It's never going to be easier than when they are out of the axle housing, might as well be proactive.

As far as your questions go:

1. It doesn't look like you are forgetting anything, but there will ALWAYS be things that pop up along the way to throw you off. Just budgeting a bit extra will help overcome them.

2. I can't answer directly about the 80 master, but a larger piston doesn't necessarily mean more braking power. Actually, it would just move more fluid at a lower pressure. That's why folks change out the clutch master for a larger one, it moves the slave further with the same stroke. But you don't need as much mechanical advantage with the clutch. I think from the factory the larger bore masters are matched with boosters that supply more assist. If it were me, I would probably go with the 60 master.

3. With the work you are planning, you will be completely going through each axle pretty thoroughly. Between dis-assembly, cleaning/painting, and re-assembly, you will be covering every inch of the axles, aside from the differentials needing attention, you should be solid.

4, Removing the axles will require removing the bolt from the spring eye (shackle end in your case), and the ubolts to free them (and of course brake lines, drive lines, steering, etc). I have left the tires on so I could roll them out from under the truck, or set them on a moving dolly, because they are pretty heavy things. But all in all, pretty straight forward to get them removed.

5, I just replaced all my lug studs so I could bolt on a set of alloy wheels (the stock studs were too short). I didn't realize just how worn the threads were on the old ones until I threaded fresh lug nuts on fresh studs, but it was a world of difference. For the $80 or so I spent on the project, I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. And a press is the appropriate way to install the studs, but it really depends on how much pressure it takes to get the knurling of the stud to seat in the hub. If you can "pull" them into place with only using 40 or 50 Lbs of torque, you aren't stretching the stud and causing it any real harm. If you have to apply as much, or more torque than it requires to attach the wheel, I would definitely use a press. I would also say that if I had the axles all broken down to do the rebuild/refresh you are going to do, I would just find someone with a press and be done with it.


Hope that helps some. I'm going to be running my rig this winter, now that I can, but I will also have to do a knuckle job on it to fix the leaking inner axle seals. I plan on pulling the front just as you are so I can clean and paint it at that time, so we aren't that far apart. I don't have to change knuckles, but the service will be about the same. I look forward to seeing the progress you make with the the old ClusterTruck.


lefty b

Lefty,

Your response, as usual, is much appreciated - thanks for all the great info!

pinion pre-load seems easy enough, but gear lash is a great mystery to me - I'll have to do some reading...

To respond:

1. No doubt something will cause delays - I've put together a spreadsheet to try and work through when and from where I will be buying all of my parts. As usual, since I don't OWN the garage I'm working in, minimizing down-time is key, so I try to foresee any possible contingency plan!

2. I'm inclined to agree - with 60 knuckles and rear drums, I have, almost, an exact copy of the FJ60 brake system - so an FJ60 cylinder seems like the "go-to" replacement BMC. Was just curious if the larger piston on the 80 BMC would make a massive difference in pedal feel - no matter what I choose, it will be better than what I have now!

4. Damn - I was hoping I could pull off the wheels and then "thread" the axle through the springs without dropping them.

5. I'm sure I can track down a press...Seems like the intelligent way to go, since the hubs will be disconnected anyway.
 
So the way it is looking right now, here is the schedule:

Dec/Jan/Feb: Pick up FJ60 donor axle, disassemble, clean, prep knuckle parts for paint, then paint, knock out the old races, install fresh ones.

Meanwhile, collecting all of the rebuild parts for the entire braking system and axles.

April/May: Pull front Axle, all old brake lines. Convert front axle to discs, full knuckle overhaul, reseal differential/pinion. Install replacement hard/soft lines into truck. Paint axle housing.

June: Reinstall front Axle, along with Caster Shims. Remove Rear Axle, tear down for rebuild. Rebuild drum brakes and axle (replace seals and bearings). Re-seal rear differential/Pinion. Paint Rear Axle housing.

July: Reinstall rear axle. Hook up the braking system. Bleed, adjust, bleed, adjust, bleed, adjust, DRIVE! :steer:

So - Hoping to get all of this knocked out in 3 months over the spring (when it will be raining non-stop anyway). This is probably ambitious and assumes nothing will go horribly wrong, but, in the end, I think the juice will be worth the squeeze. A little worried, as this is the first major undertaking I'll be handling without the assistance of a shop, but, everyone says a front axle overhaul is a right of passage in the Land Cruiser world.
 
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4. Damn - I was hoping I could pull off the wheels and then "thread" the axle through the springs without dropping them.

why change the entire axle when you could just go with the bigger knuckles ?

that's what we did on my truck
 
why change the entire axle when you could just go with the bigger knuckles ?

that's what we did on my truck

That is exactly what I'm doing - sorry to confuse. I was just hoping, in terms of removing the axle from the truck, I would be able just pull the axle out from under it and leave the springs hanging.

I'm pulling the axle, primarily, to ease the painting and differential resealing. If it was just the knuckles, I'd leave it under the truck!
 
Looking back at the pictures you took of the shackle/bushing change, it wouldn't be very hard to take the shackles apart to free the spring(s) from the frame. Then it just drops out of the way and the axle can come straight out the front (in the front, or the back in the rear). Trying to bring it out between the frame and spring would be a real pain, and would scratch the s#!t out of the fresh paint when going back in.

I don't know what kind of time you get to devote to the old girl, but I would think that if you have all the parts when you start, it's not much of a stretch to get everything done in the time frame you are considering. In the meantime it's probably a good idea to also get looking into any tools you might need and don't have (knuckle centering tool is one that comes to mind), or services that you might need to pay for (pressing rear axle bearings off/on, wheel studs, etc). Making some connections now for when you have it apart will lessen the "urgency" factor when/if the need arises, and could also help toward lowering the total bill for the project.


why change the entire axle when you could just go with the bigger knuckles ?

that's what we did on my truck


Just saw your reply to this question Rick. And Claudia, I thought I read where you were going to run the 60 axles for the extra width? Did I miss something, or is that a later project? And I can't help but ask about the change of avatar, is it temporary until the 40 is done, or?


lefty b
 
Looking back at the pictures you took of the shackle/bushing change, it wouldn't be very hard to take the shackles apart to free the spring(s) from the frame. Then it just drops out of the way and the axle can come straight out the front (in the front, or the back in the rear). Trying to bring it out between the frame and spring would be a real pain, and would scratch the s#!t out of the fresh paint when going back in.

I don't know what kind of time you get to devote to the old girl, but I would think that if you have all the parts when you start, it's not much of a stretch to get everything done in the time frame you are considering. In the meantime it's probably a good idea to also get looking into any tools you might need and don't have (knuckle centering tool is one that comes to mind), or services that you might need to pay for (pressing rear axle bearings off/on, wheel studs, etc). Making some connections now for when you have it apart will lessen the "urgency" factor when/if the need arises, and could also help toward lowering the total bill for the project.

Just saw your reply to this question Rick. And Claudia, I thought I read where you were going to run the 60 axles for the extra width? Did I miss something, or is that a later project? And I can't help but ask about the change of avatar, is it temporary until the 40 is done, or?

lefty b

Lefty -

You're probably right - was just a bear getting that shackle on around the PS box and (as usual) I was trying to cut corners! Can't blame me for trying...

I tend to be a "weekend warrior" when it comes
to the truck - it resides a half hour away from me, so I lose a lot of time after work just getting over there. Normally I'll try to find a weekend and put in two solid 8+ hour days unless I hit a roadblock. Really eager to get a house bought so I can have my own garage to mess with this thing in - that's about 2 years away. Then I'll have way more time to devote, and way less money!

I've got a good handle on the tooling - and a couple lines on knuckle centering tools to borrow. I haven't looked into rear axle rebuilds to deeply yet - I was not aware that i would have to press in the axle bearings...I'll have to do some more reading!
 
You're right about the axle bearing, I was thinking about a different rig. It's been a long time since I was in there. Here's what they look like:

rear axle bearing.webp
(Picture stolen from another thread)

Sorry for the scare.

I hear you about the 1/2 hour to get to your rig. Mine is stored about that far away right now, and it's a commitment to going out and getting things done. It also sucks when I forget something (usually something very key, or stupidly simple) and have to go retrieve it, or bail and start over another day. You'll get it done, it's all about maximizing the time you do get to work on it by working smarter instead of harder. Planning is everything.


lefty b
rear axle bearing.webp
 
You're right about the axle bearing, I was thinking about a different rig. It's been a long time since I was in there. Here's what they look like:

View attachment 826464
(Picture stolen from another thread)

Sorry for the scare.

I hear you about the 1/2 hour to get to your rig. Mine is stored about that far away right now, and it's a commitment to going out and getting things done. It also sucks when I forget something (usually something very key, or stupidly simple) and have to go retrieve it, or bail and start over another day. You'll get it done, it's all about maximizing the time you do get to work on it by working smarter instead of harder. Planning is everything.


lefty b

Yep, that's what I was thinking - you had me worried! I immediately jumped over and started searching for rear-axle rebuild threads!

I totally agree with working "smarter" as opposed to harder. I live and die by spreadsheets, and trying to predict every possible contingency within reason. Hence the constant boatloads of questions to MUD. I'm also a compulsive spreadsheet-er. I already have a sheet outlining every part I will need, part numbers included, where I'll buy it from, etc. Basically, the money comes in, all I have to do is pull the trigger based on a spreadsheet. This then becomes the "list" I follow to keep me on task and make sure I have all the correct parts and tools for a given day's work - because yes, it sucks making the trip from North East to Chesapeake City for one stupid tool. :bang:
 
Rick,

Don't sweat the rear axle rebuild. I just rebuilt my rear axle and took a lot of pictures that I'll probably put on my build thread. I didn't need any special tools except a welder, which I used to run a bead of weld around the inside of the bearing race to shrink it. After that it practically fell out. I was able to heat the inner bearing race and it just slid right on to the axle--just have to be careful of too much head (I ruined 2 brand new inner races and had to crack them back off).
 
Tooling

Here is the anticipated parts list, so far:

FRONT AXLE:
* Donor FJ60/62 Axle - Have a line on a couple of these, just saving my pennies to pick one of them up!
* Starter Bushings to insert into FJ60 steering arms (to use them with stock 40-series Tie Rod Ends)
* Front Knuckle/Axle Overhaul Kit w/ Marlin Eco Seals and Wheel Bearings for FJ60 (Kurt?)
* Full set of replacement Differential/Pinion Seals
* Brake Backing Plate Eliminator Spacers
* Weld-on Tombstone anchors for Soft Lines
* New Wheel Studs (necessary?)

REAR AXLE:
* Rear Axle Overhaul Kit (Kurt?) with replacement bearings
* Complete set of Differential and Pinion Seals
* New Wheel Studs (necessary??)

BRAKES:
* FJ60 or FZJ80 Brake Master Cylinder (Any opinions, here?)
* Full set of replacement Brake Hard Lines (or bend my own)
* Fresh FJ60/62 Rotors, Calipers, and Pads (using the donor axle calipers as cores)
* Replacement Soft lines
* Replacement Wheel Cylinders for rear Drums
* New Drums (or turn the old ones)
* Any necessary replacement drum brake hardware

In a further effort to collect my thoughts - Here is the list of tools I think I will need:

4lb sledge (BFH) or deadblow hammer
Brass Drift
54mm Hub socket (1/2in drive)
Other assorted metric sockets (3/8in drive)
Tie-Rod-End Separator (or Pickle fork)
Fish Scale
Snap-ring pliers
Seal puller (or screwdrivers)
8+ inch caliper
Knuckle Centering SST (plan to borrow one)
Bearing/Race driver set
RAGS/PAPER TOWELS
GREASE
Gear Oil

Again - am I forgetting something important?

Also - what do you guys recommend for cleaning up all the greasy parts? Seems like this job might be too messy for the usual brake cleaner dousings...
 
Seems good to me. Add a gallon of GoJo and some lava soap along with a gallon of chemtool
 
3/8 to 1/2 socket converter
Torque wrenches (small and larger torque range)
Gap tool
Brass drift - find a long tapered one (14"), and a 3-size set of 7" long ones
One thing I had from another hobby (metal smithing) is a weighted leather hammer. Better than a dead blow for those delicate parts or bearings. EBay has some. Get a good quality one.
 
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3/8 to 1/2 socket converter
Torque wrenches (small and larger torque range)
Gap tool
Brass drift - find a long tapered one (14"), and a 3-size set of 7" long ones
One thing I had from another hobby (metal smithing) is a weighted leather hammer. Better than a dead blow for those delicate parts or bearings. EBay has some. Get a good quality one.

VV You have a ton of hobbies!

Why such a long drift? I have one that's 7 or 8 inches - hoping that would suffice!

What is the gap tool for? Not sure I'm familiar with that one - like a spark plug gap tool?
 

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