Builds The Mule: My OM617 swap and other improvements (1 Viewer)

[DPV7070]

Well gents, I've been the the throes of a diesel swap on my 6/'72 40 series since April of this year and the time has come for me to chronicle some of it so maybe, at the very least, I can serve as a warning to others for how NOT to tear your cruiser down. I'm also starting it because I'm getting to the point where I'll need some valued inputs with respect to final drivetrain placement, motivation, etc. My overall goal for this project is to have a competent off road vehicle that I can take my wife and son out in for camping, mild wheelin', and just general exploring of backcountry areas. I'm trying to keep things looking "stock," but I'm no opposed to modifications. My only criteria for modifications is that they have to be functionally better than what it's replacing and be reasonable.

I started with a 6/72 40 with a hack job '70 350 swap completed that was mated to the stock 3spd drivetrain. Everything else was pretty much left alone. The truck had been freshened up at some point and has been repainted the original color. I suspect the original engine burned up since there was a heavy smell of burned plastic / rubber when I first got it.

The backstory is I purchased the rig back in 2010 from an older gent who was a private detective and cruiser enthusiast, but was disabled by a difficult bout with cancer (he claims it was from Agent Orange during Vietnam). He said he had intentions of bringing it back to stock, but he just didn't have the time/money/health to do so. According to him, he scored the 40 from a public auction that resulted from an operation that involved the takedown of a drug operation up in LA county that he had the inside scoop on. As such, I wasn't surprised to find a crack rock in the horn button months later during some clean up of the interior. Coincidentally, my wife coined the term "mule" as in a drug mule and I guess it stuck. The name has been fitting as this project has been so dang stubborn at times. However, I'm starting the think it's name should be something that reflects how much time and money this thing has taken thus far.

I'm already "in progress" with this swap, so I'll be catching up but hope someone gets something out of it. If nothing else, it might help me organize my plans.

Here's the day I brought it home

 

[DPV7070]

Being a complete Land Cruiser newb, I didn't think things through very well with respect to where I wanted the truck to end up.

So I wasted money rebuilding brakes I'd later part out, rebuilt an axle that I'd eventually put different knuckles on, freshened up an engine that would eventually get pulled, powdercoated drum brake wheels I'd later sell, and a brand new Warn 8274 that may or may not have been influenced by a case of Coors..you get the drift. Money that could've been better spent elsewhere.

All lessons cost something...good lessons cost a lot!

Things I did improve that I'm glad I did were all new OEM weatherstripping, a MetalTech Jackson cage, and new 33x10.50 BFG AT's.

So that brings us to about here, right before my deployment to Afghanistan (I'm a MV-22B pilot).

 

[DPV7070]

The time came to focus on an upcoming combat deployment and family, so the cruiser got put on the back burner around May of 2012 with the family on board for a "refresh" when I got back in early 2013.

Afghanistan sure was an eye opening place. I guess it suffices to say that I was fairly nieve when it came to what I thought we'd be doing (flying wise) and what we actually did. The first time you roll into an objective area and people are getting shot at, or you get an RPG over the top of your plane on short final to extract grunts, you get that kick in the balls eye opening experience. So after about 7 months of that I was ready to get back home.

During the deployment, we had very limited internet access, but it was enough for me to start researching my options for repowering the Mule.

Initially, I had all but decided on a Vortec swap, but it just didn't have what I was looking for--the unique factor. My first two vehicles were diesel and I fell in love with them early on. There's just something about that clackity clack that I love.

Sometime in late Feb I made up my mind. I'm going diesel. I looked at 4bts, 3.3bts, OM617s, and 6.2L. I liked the power of the 4bt, but it was just so dang loud and expensive. The 3.3bt was attractive, but impossible to source parts for. The 6.2L felt like another chevy swap. OM617 it was.

I got lucky searching CL on friday morning and found a guy with an OM617 with about 178K miles on it that was in a 300CD that had been hit in the rear (he still had the car around when I got it so I could verify mileage, etc). The only catch was he had people that wanted to see it on Saturday and it was first come first serve. Good thing I had the day off...so I raced up into LA cursing the traffic as I drove and made it up there around 1500. After a couple hours inspecting and talking, I came home with this for $500

 

[JohnnyC]

Thank you for your service!!!!

A friend was in Afghanistan ... A marine ... Needless to say he now will use a Cain the rest of his life and be permanently attached to pain medicine... I feel for you guys!!!

Quick fix to the bezel!!! You learn fast

And Great looking cruiser!

Can't wait to see more .... SemperFi

 

[FJ60Seth]

My daily driver is a 1895 300D. It's a very reliable engine.

 

[DPV7070]

I figured for $500 there was either something wrong or the guy really wanted to hit the club that friday night. He included the radiator, tranny, extra oil cooler, power steering pump, overflow rez, extra starter, A/C compressor, fan and fan clutch, and a lot of other small stuff.

The next few weeks were devoted to making sure that the motor was a runner. The seller guaranteed me that the motor was a runner with no blowby, etc, but you never really know until you check things out for yourself. So I searched the interwebs high and low and started learning everything I could about OM617s. From what I gathered, I needed to adjust the valves (had to make some wrenches), confirm the glowplugs were working properly, change fluides, filters, gaskets, etc, and see how it ran.

 

[KillerPea]

Thanks again for your service. And.... Don't stop now... you've got an audience. Subscribed.

 

[DPV7070]

This is pretty much where the head banging begins. The engine fired up as advertised and ran like a sewing machine, but it seemed that the turbo was pushing some oil past the seals. Well, that didn't make a whole lot of sense because the engine didn't have any significant blowby (the oil cap doesn't even move when removed and placed on top of the hole), but something has to be pressurizing the crankcase....

So I had the turbo rebuilt. Turns out the thrust washers were indeed bad, so that set me back some $$$. Also, I found out after watching a video of the engine running that when I cracked the oil cap open, I heard a hiss and the idle improved. Turned out that a vent hose that normally fed into the air cleaner had been piped directly into the oil pan and was pressurizing the crankcase, which pressurized oil going into the turbo, which forced it past the seals, which probably had something to do with ruining the turbo. Dang. Anyways, I'll post up a link to the video of it running.

 

[DPV7070]

http://youtu.be/hqkuOcm0KuU

If you listen closely when I crack the oil fill cap at 0:40 you'll hear the idle improve. That hose that runs over the top from the valve cover to the oil pan was the culprit. It also explains why there was so much blue smoke.

I had a turbo shop go through the turbo and they put a new compressor wheel that should help spool up faster. I can't remember the A/R ratio, but it's nothing too crazy.

 

[DPV7070]

While I had it apart, I took care of a couple of things that I knew would be easier to do now rather than later. So, I drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold for a pyrometer bung, deleted the EGR which entailed blocking off the EGR on the intake (that thing was gunked up beyond belief in there--cleaning was a PITA!), and brazed the EGR port closed on the exhaust manifold. I have to admit my first foray into brazing on cast iron was a good experience. I did a lot of research and it's all about controlling the heat. It worked out well and I was pleased as punch. I coated both the intake and exhaust manifolds with some hi temp paint while I had them off so that's good for at least +20 ft-lbs right? haha

I almost screwed myself by trying to be too slick. I tapped the exh manifold on the back side in an attempt to hide all wiring harness for the thermocouple. I measured multiple times, but it just barely cleared the engine block so I guess I'll chalk that one up to luck. As a pilot, we always say I'd rather be lucky than good, so I guess it worked this time.

 

[DPV7070]

I suppose I should offer some tips so this whole thread isn't just me rambling on about my mistakes and fortunes spent so here's one:

If you're going to tackle some sort of major project, money is always going to be an issue (for most people). Everything you can do to offset the project cost puts you that much ahead. Even if it's just a few dollars, maybe that paid for your run to the parts house.

I've been very aggressive on this to date. As a result I've sold enough Benz parts (transmission, torque converter, starter, A/C condenser, extra oil cooler, driveline components, etc) that I've completely paid for my initial investment in the engine. I actually can't believe that I pulled that off, but apparently this stuff is worth money to people who need it....

Here's some pics of breaking down the engine from the tranny

 

[The Phoenician]

you got one former grunt subscribed, you're gonna love that engine.

 

[DPV7070]

Well, I'm burrowed into my couch like a tick on a hound. Probably helps that I'm recovering from surgery and I've got enough pain meds to last quite a while...

Once I was comfortable with the fact that I'd indeed purchased a "runner," it was time to start sourcing the rest of the drivetrain. I knew I didn't want to keep the 3 speed that I was currently running since it was clunky and without overdrive. It probably didn't help that in the last month I had run the heck out of it with that 350 (although, it never missed a beat). Honestly, there wasn't really anything wrong with it, but I didn't know the history, and the gear splits weren't really going to be the best thing for the OM617's powerband. You could probably get away with running a 3 spd in a pinch, since the 617 has a very large RPM range when compared to other diesel engines, but I can't really think of a good reason.

So I basically had two easy options: H55F or NV4500 (based on my limited knowledge at that time). I now know there's other options out there, but these seemed to be the front runners. Basically, what it came down to for me was money and reliability. Do I fork out mega-bucks for a new or look for good used / rebuilt?

I couldn't do new, and do all the other projects I wanted to do. So used it was. Another big consideration was if I went with the Toyota 5 spd, I'd have to figure out something for a parking brake.

I decided to go with the NV4500. After searching for a few weeks, I was able to source a fully rebuilt '92 GM NV4500 (6.34:1 first gear) shipped to my door for a reasonable price. It came from the northeast, so I was worried about the case being thin in places due to rust, but it seems solid throughout. Pics on that later.

I'll be honest, I'm pretty concerned about the driveline total length. I know people have run v8's/nv4500/orion, but I'm still sweating the final driveline placement. I'll probably have to get creative with maxing out the fwd placement of the engine just to make it manageable.

As far as transmission choice I think I will NOT get the smooth shifting qualities that the H55F offers, but I will gain the brute strength and 27% overdrive that the NV4500 offers. The wide ratio gear splits are probably less than desirable for a normal diesel, but I'm hoping the ability to rev the OM617 will allow for adequate shift points.

I had the NV4500 delivered to the auto hobby shop on base since they had a forklift and wouldn't you know the output housing got cracked during shipping. I wasn't too mad considering I wouldn't be using it, but then again I'd paid for it and it's the principle of the matter. I contacted the shop and they sent me a new one no questions asked. I later sold that housing to fund some adapters.

 

[DPV7070]

Speaking of adapters. I went with AA for their NV4500 to TLC 10 spline case and 4x4 Labs for the OM617 to GM adapter. Adapters are easily comprise 40-50% of the cost of this swap.

Anyways, here are some shots of installing the AA NV4500 adapter. Cutting a perfectly good transmission output shaft in two is definitely one of those things I'm glad to have behind me.

 

[DPV7070]

Some more tranny pics...

So for some tech here:

You need to follow the AA instructions to the "T" when you cut this shaft off. If you cut it too short, when you tighten the output shaft spud shaft nut, you'll pull the spud shaft against the sealed bearing as you tighten against the rear output bearing on the tcase. If you leave it too long, when you tighten the adapter housing down, you'll be forcing the sealed bearing against the spud shaft. I suspect that both will lead to premature failure of the sealed bearing. Also be sure to measure from the case of the transmission to the required length, not from anywhere else. Being a pilot, we "chair fly" a lot before the real deal, so I decided to practice the cut before I started putting marks on metal. I think it paid off-- as it went off without a hitch. I was basically checking to make sure the tool didn't interfere during execution. You don't want to find out while you're cutting on that bad boy that something was causing you to cut at a weird angle.

As far as the cutting went, I used a cutoff wheel to get through the hardened portion using tape as a guide. After that I used my bandsaw to zip through the softer "core" of the output shaft. The Milwaukee cut through the non-hardend portion like butter.

Once I had it cut, I used some some air tools and smoothed everything out as best I could, basically making sure the mating surface was as flat as possible. I also made sure the sealing surfaces were free of any old gasket material, rust, grease, etc.

I also installed a Quad4x4 PTO filter, but I'm not sure it's going to clear the front output shaft. They recommend putting it on the right side due to the countershaft assembly slinging the Syntorq in that direction. There's a couple of neodynium magnets in there that I'll be checking after a couple hundred miles.
I thought I had some pics of the black paint but I can't seem to find them. These pics show some rust converter I applied, but it's not paint.

 

[DPV7070]

Unfortunately, the time comes in every swap to quit driving your vehicle and know that it's going to be "down" for a while--or in my line of work, "NMC" (non-mission capable).

First order of business was to square away my garage. Luckily, while I was in Afghanistan, the house my wife found to rent had a significantly larger garage (2 car). Obviously, I didn't have a problem with that. She knows me so well that when she talked to me about it she even added, "...and yes, there's a 220V outlet for your welder."

Melt my heart, haha.

So after getting things organized, I snapped a shot of the Mule in the driveway and then in the spot it has been for the last 5-6 months...

HF had a special on some wheel dollies and if you've ever debated about spending a couple bucks on some, they're great.

I've used them for everything from moving axles, wheels, trannies, and of course--maneuvering the cruiser around the garage.

 

[DPV7070]

So now the major teardown began. I worked on it when I could, but I was going through some very rigorous instructor pilot qualification syllabi so I was only able to work on it when I could. I'd usually study for a few hours, then take a 30 minute wrenching break to clear my head, then get back at it. I soaked all the fasteners for a week or two in PB Blaster and only had a few that I'll have to drill out. Overall not too bad, but she's got some rust just like every other cruiser out there.

Here's the teardown. I wish y'all could see how crappy this 350 swap was. Everything they could mess up they did. Motor mount bolts that you can't get out when the headers were on. Mismatched fasteners, no drivetrain support, hacked bellhousing, etc. I'm actually surprised that it drove so well with no vibes.

 

[DPV7070]

More pics of the teardown:

Before pulling the motor out, I advertised it on CL as a "clapped out" 350, but still runs and had a rebuilt quadrajet. I had people lined up for this thing. Amazing. Anyways, I ended up selling it to a retired gent who takes these 350s, rebuilds them, then sells them to his hotrod buddies. He came with $400 and a truck. I sent him packing with an old 350 and an IPA. Win-Win

 

[bikersmurf]

Lookin good, can't wait to see how it turns out.

 

[DPV7070]

Well, with the SBC out and on its way to a good home / rebuild. It was time to map out how exactly I was going to go about this build.

Being a pilot / Marine, I'm pretty "type A" when I'm on the job, but at home I normally mellow out and revert to a state somewhere in between an "B+" and "the Dude" from The Big Lebowski. I try to go by the mantra of "big deal, little deal, no deal." That being said, I'm not soooo type A as to think I know everything. Keeping this in mind I tried to take a few hints from other builds on 'Mud--and I also decided I'd probably have to "put my thinkin' cap on" as my dad says.

Thinking forward to engine placement, I knew that steering plays a huge part with respect to clearances, drivetrain placement, etc. I'm lucky in one respect that the OM617 is an inline engine, so that helps somewhat, but it also has accessories that take up valuable space on either side. On the passenger side, I'm going to have to deal with the turbo, exhaust, and intake and on the right side I've got the power steering pump, fuel filter, and injector pump.

So I decided that I'd better get cracking on the power steering conversion. I decided to go with 4x4Labs for a lot of my parts. Currently, I've got their power steering frame plates, steering shaft kit, and they made me up some "high-ish" (not really high steer since I'm still SUA) steer steering arms, drag links and relay rod. It's pure beef. Anyways, enough talking...here's some pics, which I know is what yall want anyways (if anyone is even reading this):

I actually screwed up a little on this install. Chalk it up to being a rookie. I messed up by I reusing the original tow hook locations when I actually should have cut square holes in the frame and inset the nuts that 4x4Labs provides. I did weld captured nuts on the inside before welding up the plates, but this is why the top plates leave the side plates exposed a little. I'm going to end up fabbing a front bump / using frame extenders anyways so I'm not too upset.

***Disclaimer*** I taught myself to weld. I'm still learning. Some of these look like boogers, but they arent. Also, I see a distinct difference when you're 12 Coors deep and when you're stone sober...haha.

I'm using a MM200 on 100% CO2.

Also, I noticed that I don't have any "forward dip" to my box, but I mounted it how 4x4Labs had theirs mounted. I can't think of any bad effects by having the box parallel to the frame. Anyone see a need to correct this? Kinda late now I guess...