There is no problem deking the block no matter if it has liners or not. You just need to get the block to a machine shop - that's the hard part.
The Car Care Nut talks UR V8 blown head gaskets (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter dudemancool1904
- Start date
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If you want more accuracy but not full on lab testing get wine testing strips.
Or if someone has an electronic pH meter it can try it.
But honestly how much precision do you need for coolant? It should not be acidic, not a very precise number, that's all.
Or if someone has an electronic pH meter it can try it.
But honestly how much precision do you need for coolant? It should not be acidic, not a very precise number, that's all.
be hilarious when you all find out that the car care nut is the same person as the seller of these kits on amazon
He is the supplier of Toyota coolant. Get it right, Ryan.
I am learning slowly.....
Does anyone have an electron microscope so I can inspect my coolant at the molecular level?
I live right by JPL and I can get one for you. However, they don't let anything but Mirai and Volt in their parking lot.
Maybe I can walk there?
Let me see if car care nut can give me a ride.
I don't know if y'all are as neurotic as me, but as a fellow "while you're in there" type of home mechanic I pulled the heads on my 2011 Sequoia so you don't have to. This vehicle has 220,000 miles and i just picked it up about 2 months ago. Unknown history. This is a vehicle I bought for a family member and want it to last another 10 years at least. It started with the valley plate reseal, then moved to pre-emptively fixing the timing tensioner issues these engines have. While I was in there I figured I'd reseal the cam towers. And while I was in there I figured I'd pull the heads for peace of mind, I mean I was 90% of the way there anyways right? To be clear there was nothing wrong with this truck besides a small leak from the valley plate and a weeping water pump.
I can make a new thread on this for those interested but what I found was some delamination of the head gasket coating around the suspect coolant ports but not bad at all. This easily would have held up fine for a long while I suspect. Passenger side was better than drivers side. Both heads perfectly flat, drivers side block surface actually did have a low spot near the suspect coolant port, but a .0015 feeler gauge would not fit. I could barely see light under the straight edge.
If you keep up on your coolant service and avoid overheating I wouldn't worry about this at all personally. I suspect overheating would cause this issue more than anything else. This is personal opinion but based on my research I no longer run Toyota SLLC pink coolant. It uses sebacic acid to make it last as long as it does, but sebacic acid is a plasticizer and not necessarily the best thing for coatings, plastics and rubbers. I personally prefer to change my coolant more often and use something with a shorter lifespan but safer on plastics and seals.
Enjoy some photos
I can make a new thread on this for those interested but what I found was some delamination of the head gasket coating around the suspect coolant ports but not bad at all. This easily would have held up fine for a long while I suspect. Passenger side was better than drivers side. Both heads perfectly flat, drivers side block surface actually did have a low spot near the suspect coolant port, but a .0015 feeler gauge would not fit. I could barely see light under the straight edge.
If you keep up on your coolant service and avoid overheating I wouldn't worry about this at all personally. I suspect overheating would cause this issue more than anything else. This is personal opinion but based on my research I no longer run Toyota SLLC pink coolant. It uses sebacic acid to make it last as long as it does, but sebacic acid is a plasticizer and not necessarily the best thing for coatings, plastics and rubbers. I personally prefer to change my coolant more often and use something with a shorter lifespan but safer on plastics and seals.
Enjoy some photos
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more photos
bloc
SILVER Star
Thanks for posting. Was the tensioner job 100% pre-emptive or did it rattle at all?
Thank you for posting!
I knew Car Care nut was a genius and right all along.
Question for you: My car I think has developed the cam tower leak. Smoking after drive, coming from the areas indicating the leak. Almost like oil on heatshield. Nothing on ground at all. How intensive or difficult is the job?
It never rattled, but I only had the truck for about 2 months and never started it up in the cold of the morning. The tensioner was heavily varnished on the drivers side and I'm glad I replaced it. Based on what I saw it looks like the drivers side where the tensioner is located gets very little splash oil which causes it to varnish and seize. The whole area around the tensioner had a lot of oil varnish while the rest of the motor including the cylinder heads looked almost brand new, so I know whoever had this truck did regular oil changes.
It's involved, the front timing cover and timing components have to be removed which is kind of a PITA because the AC compressor, oil cooler, alternator, power steering pump all have to be unbolted. Not to mention the valve covers have to come off along with a bunch of coolant hardlines. The wiring on the valve covers needs to be undone and draped over. Not a small job by any means. 100% doable in a garage without a lift though. I wouldn't do it if it was my only daily driver, you don't want to rush this one.
Sounds too complicated. Probably just live with the burning smell like most Tundra guys, and keep filling oil as it burns.
I know this is not a good approach, then again it could be better than keep adding oil.
Temporary valve cover oil leak repair
I did a cheap repair of an oil leak from a valve cover gasket. I had family on a short term visit from California and they all wanted rides in the TR....
www.ferrarichat.com
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someday 993 Turbo S ….Regular procedure for 911's aircooled, nothing new here Ryan... lol.
You mention, you wont being using Toyota pink coolant anymore. Which exact coolant will you be using and what recommend intervals will you being changing it?
I have a dream that this thread will be 100 pages one day.
In the future, 200 will have a bad name like Subarus...and every one will be scared of Head Gaskets..like IMS on Porsches...and Coolant lines and subframe issues on BMW.
Long live the NUT
In the future, 200 will have a bad name like Subarus...and every one will be scared of Head Gaskets..like IMS on Porsches...and Coolant lines and subframe issues on BMW.
Long live the NUT
Well, not to say you ain't right Ryan, ... But ...
Two my E46 M3's needed the subframe fix done, and one 2006's needed the LN Eng IMS fix done ...
Just saying , not just tales from the crypt... $hit does/did happen.... Am I going to sell my 13 cuz HG fear ? Well, you know the answer, actually looking to buy one more.
Two my E46 M3's needed the subframe fix done, and one 2006's needed the LN Eng IMS fix done ...
Just saying , not just tales from the crypt... $hit does/did happen.... Am I going to sell my 13 cuz HG fear ? Well, you know the answer, actually looking to buy one more.
