Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (7 Viewers)

[GA Architect]

I was hoping for a pic of the Taco sagging with that lump in the back of it - their springs are not from the same lineage as a Cruiser for sure , mine bottoms out with around 350lbs in it ....
Sarge

I didn't think to take that pic...However, mine didn't seem to sag much. The TRD Off-Road progressive springs did alright, got it home. I'll remember to take a full side photo once I get it back loaded for the install.

 

[Nottajeep]

Great thread.

Did I miss where you did a compression test on the current motor?

 

[GA Architect]

Great thread.

Did I miss where you did a compression test on the current motor?

Thanks.....No, I didn't post any compression test on the original 2F with about 81,000 on it now. When I bought it last March, the numbers were around 120 (+/-), if I remember correctly, with no big variation in the cylinders.

 

[Nottajeep]

How is the motor shot then?

If all cylinders are equal, you should ok and still in spec from my understanding.

 

[GA Architect]

I'm doing preventative maintenance?

The motor probably isn't shot. It just has quite a bit of blow-by and likes the 15-40. Which isn't too big of an issue, but I just want a new motor in my rig.

Like most FJ40 parts I have, now I'll have a 2F engine back-up.

 

[ErikinSC]

... mine bottoms out with around 350lbs in it ....
Sarge

Here is SEC football land, I'd have to bet GA has upgrade his springs for beer, uh..... College football season.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Some of the post '09 Tacos don't seem to have nearly as bad of a problem with sag , my '08 is terrible - 350lbs puts it on the ground most times . Toyota has sent letters out about a spring recall and are suppose to be getting a replacement ready , it's been 4+ months since those letters went out to owners . Pretty embarrassing to own a pickup that can't haul any decent weight , too bad they didn't build those pickups like a Cruiser . I really want one of those 75 series Cruiser pickup utes that are out there , but prices aren't cheap even compared to the Taco's extremely high resale value . By the time they get the springs figured out I'll need a new frame as it's started to rust inside pretty good despite being a really low mileage '08 (32k) .

Don't blame you for going with a rebuilt engine - that cylinder leakage is probably just a set of collapsed rings and that can be easily fixed . I say freshen it up and grease the heck out of the cylinders/valves/crank and bag it in storage for another decade or two...

Sarge

 

[GA Architect]

Some of the post '09 Tacos don't seem to have nearly as bad of a problem with sag , my '08 is terrible - 350lbs puts it on the ground most times . Toyota has sent letters out about a spring recall and are suppose to be getting a replacement ready , it's been 4+ months since those letters went out to owners . Pretty embarrassing to own a pickup that can't haul any decent weight , too bad they didn't build those pickups like a Cruiser . I really want one of those 75 series Cruiser pickup utes that are out there , but prices aren't cheap even compared to the Taco's extremely high resale value . By the time they get the springs figured out I'll need a new frame as it's started to rust inside pretty good despite being a really low mileage '08 (32k) .

Don't blame you for going with a rebuilt engine - that cylinder leakage is probably just a set of collapsed rings and that can be easily fixed . I say freshen it up and grease the heck out of the cylinders/valves/crank and bag it in storage for another decade or two...

Sarge

Sarge, that is exactly what I'm going to with the rig's original 2F motor. Freshen it up, and store it.

Yep, I got the Taco's springs recall letter a while back. Was actually in the shop for a oil change and wheel bearing check-up, it will get new bearings as they are still under warranty ($850 of KOOL!). They don't have the parts yet for the springs, so that is another issue for another day. My '10 model seems to haul a good pay load. But I think the TRD models may have a different spring pack in them, maybe not? I've actually had almost a full pallet of CMU's in the back, and it toted the load alright. It was riding dirty, fo-sho! No rust on my Taco's frame, yet. But I don't live where salt is readily placed on the roads...It had better last for a while longer (70K service today), the '10 Tacoma is going to be my son's. Then I'm getting either a '97 LC or '00-'04 Tacoma. More than likely I'll go with the Tacoma for it's truck bed.

 

[GA Architect]

A care package from the "Mother Land" came today!

I believe I have all the parts for my engine swap now. I've just got to schedule this work before too long.

 

[GA Architect]

Special thanks to Beno for all the engine parts, radiator, fuel pump and spacer....Jim C. for his knowledge of parts between the '77 and '86 2F engine....NOMSG for all the engine work....Carolina Clutch for the LUK Clutch Kit....to the International Company over seas for a good bit of the small parts....and not to mention Amazon for the Energy Suspension body kit..........Last but not least, City Racer, LLC for this:

 

[GA Architect]

When you POR-15 a 40 it's like wearing a condom immune to rain and snow, great prophylactic as long as it doesn't break! Hey, did they start test your engine before delivery?

I made an error in my post #267, they didn't do a Compression Test, it was a Vacuum Test. They didn't have the fly wheel or starter to turn the motor over for a Compression Test. Also, the engine (rings and seals) needs to break-in before an effective Compression Test is done.

It was the "Vacuum Test" on the cylinder head that determined the other valves were needed, thus all new valves were installed. Once the new ones were installed, the Mechanic and Cylinder Head were happy!

.....I'm learning here!....

FYI - Monday 4/6 my rig goes in for the transplant & POR15 work!

 

[GA Architect]

After much thought and deliberation, I'm going to try and undertake the task of swapping the 2F motors myself. The main item I'm unsure about, is the clutch kit. I've never installed a clutch before, and yes I know I can read how to do it, but I'd like to have a knowledgeable person near by should I make an uncalculated error. I've posted up a thread (click this link) asking for local help from the MUD members in my area. If I can get the help, this is the route I'm going to take....

As for the POR-15, I can make that happen after the swap. All I need is to run to my local auto paint supplier and get a can or two, and I can do this a little at a time over the summer.

And when it is all said and done, I can only blame myself for any issues but the "KNOWLEDGE" I'll gain & learn will be priceless! Not to mention the pictures I'll be taking along the way.

Wish me luck.....I'm sure I'll have a question or two along the way.

 

[78fj40mg]

GAA I'll be available via phone to help you in any way possible.

 

[myquestoyota]

Just make sure you put the clutch plate in properly, there is a front and back side, and line it up with the install dowel usually provided or easily obtained and the rest comes down to adjusting the slave and master. The clutch part is pretty much a job.
Not really rocket surgery.

 

[GA Architect]

Just make sure you put the clutch plate in properly, there is a front and back side, and line it up with the install dowel usually provided or easily obtained and the rest comes down to adjusting the slave and master. The clutch part is pretty much a job.
Not really rocket surgery.

Funny you posted that. I just put a sticky note in my clutch kit this morning after reading this FAQ on just that very thing...Per Poser (Steve) - The protruding center part of the clutch plate goes towards the flywheel.

And who says no one reads the FAQ's?

 

[myquestoyota]

And make sure you have a reliable torque wrench. That is one item where you get what you pay for.

 

[GA Architect]

And make sure you have a reliable torque wrench. That is one item where you get what you pay for.

Check...I was surprised I didn't already have one. Thus, it was one of the first tools I purchased once I took possession of my rig. It is a Kobalt 3/8" drive 20-ft-lbs to 100-ft-lbs.

Interesting you mentioned torque, I gleaned and complied the attached PDF off MUD this morning as well. Thanks to @Hugh Heifer & the FAQ's.

 

[myquestoyota]

Never hurts to check the calibration occasionally, especially after storage. There are several videos online about calibration but I usually check mine against the beam style torque wrench in my drawer. Not the best way but at least I check......

 

[78fj40mg]

Check...I was surprised I didn't already have one. Thus, it was one of the first tools I purchased once I took possession of my rig. It is a Kobalt 3/8" drive 20-ft-lbs to 100-ft-lbs.

Interesting you mentioned torque, I gleaned and complied the attached PDF off MUD this morning as well. Thanks to @Hugh Heifer & the FAQ's.

GAA- You may need a higher range torque wrench approximately up to 150-ft-lbs. i.e. the main crank shaft pulley has a high torque requirement of 116-144 ft - lbs.

 

[GA Architect]

GAA- You may need a higher range torque wrench approximately up to 150-ft-lbs. i.e. the main crank shaft pulley has a high torque requirement of 116-144 ft - lbs.

Thanks for the info....Fortunately for me, the mechanic has already installed that pulley on my rebuilt 2F.

My attachments are; intake mani, exhaust mani, carb, dizzyy, new thermostat & new housing, oil filter bracket & new sensor, engine brackets & new bushings, valve cover, new radiator, new radiator hoses, all new heater hoses & engine connectors, new OEM hose clamps, new Clutch kit, Vintage Air bracket for my CCOT compressor and alternator, spark plugs & wires, Energy Suspension Kit, and anything else I've forgot to mention.

Yep, that will keep me busy for the foreseeable future. The process will begin tomorrow night.