Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40

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My inclination is that oil has improved, over the years, full-synthetic types, etc. Too bad we can't easily get that enormous oil filter that the truck originally came with... I'm thinking that the smaller oil filters are more restrictive, which varies with the oil's temperature and viscosity? My Toyota's owner's manual suggests that it can run with 10W-30 up to 90-deg. F. Your Baldwin filter is bigger than what I'm currently running. I have a stash of 90915-YZZD3 Densos; the Denso parts finder online doesn't list an oil filter for our Cruisers.
 
My inclination is that oil has improved, over the years, full-synthetic types, etc. Too bad we can't easily get that enormous oil filter that the truck originally came with... I'm thinking that the smaller oil filters are more restrictive, which varies with the oil's temperature and viscosity? My Toyota's owner's manual suggests that it can run with 10W-30 up to 90-deg. F. Your Baldwin filter is bigger than what I'm currently running. I have a stash of 90915-YZZD3 Densos; the Denso parts finder online doesn't list an oil filter for our Cruisers.

As far as which oil one uses, any brand and weight they have confidence in....I have no say or opinion on the matter.

The oil filters I've used and my personal take:
(#1) Baldwin B2
(#2) JS Asakashi JS C101V < click here >
(#3) Toyota 15600-41010 < click here >.
(#4) Hengst H17W02

A lot of folks run the YZZD3 units with no issues.
 
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Was time for a little Griot's wax due to old paint and water spots. Should be good for a year or so now....

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I have been watching and reading MUD daily for almost 3 years …even bought my ‘75 FJ40 thru an MUD member YET …. I just found your thread now??

I have a lot of catching up to do…110 pages!
 
I was on my way home from work and noticed my transmission started acting funny, with slack on the down shift. Then it seemed like it started missing a gear tooth every so often....well, that will never do. Did a few assessments, and determined it was the T/T case. Went and picked up a tranny jack from HF and started disassembling the necessary parts.

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..
IMG_5302.jpg


...and without too much fanfare, out it came! Being that I have two units, I'm sending them both out for experienced hands to address. So I built a pallet, will secure with a few lashing straps and they will be headed on their journey.

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I was on my way home from work and noticed my transmission started acting funny, with slack on the down shift. Then it seemed like it started missing a gear tooth every so often....well, that will never do. Did a few assessments, and determined it was the T/T case. Went and picked up a tranny jack from HF and started disassembling the necessary parts.

View attachment 3770079..View attachment 3770081

...and without too much fanfare, out it came! Being that I have two units, I'm sending them both out for experienced hands to address. So I built a pallet, will secure with a few lashing straps and they will be headed on their journey.

View attachment 3770082
On way to Georg? And what will you do with the other unit?
 
Did you drain them? Without getting debris in the gear box itself, what is under the top cover of the transmission(s)? Experience can be just inspection, no special service tools needed.
From my visual inspection of the tranny gears, they look fine. The drain & fill plug didn't have too much debris on them. However, both plugs on my transfer case had about 3/8" worth of metal debris on them. Which was odd being that it was less than 6,000 miles back I changed out the gear oil and there was minimal debris on the drain plug with hardly any on the fill plug. Also, I knew the seal between the cases was compromised due to removing the tranny fill plug and about a cup of gear oil came pouring out...but I was ready for it. So over the last year or so, something has worn enough to cause that issue.

Eh, I've been meaning to reseal, rebuild as necessary, the other T/T unit, so they both will get the business now. Maybe all that is needed is a good friend with experienced eyes to review both units, and the feedback could be that nothing is wrong with them....at least experience/expertise can tell me that. When it comes to things like this, I don't trust my inspection skills.

Note, I did check the driveshaft and rear diff, but there wasn't any noticeable slop in either part. I was truly hoping the DC drive shaft had lost a U-joint and all I had to do was replace it or ring up Tom Woods for a new one.
 
The 1st thing I would check is the nut that's behind the cone cover on the back of the tcase? If it's loose you will have slop and make noise going forward to reverse or vise versa. It will also show itself going back and forth on acceleration to deacceleration and back.
 
The 1st thing I would check is the nut that's behind the cone cover on the back of the tcase? If it's loose you will have slop and make noise going forward to reverse or vise versa. It will also show itself going back and forth on acceleration to deacceleration and back.
Interesting you mentioned that.....an initial phone call made last week asked for the below pic. The staked nut was still in place. So I topped off the transfer case, thinking the low gear oil might be the cause. Took it for a drive and thought I was about to grenade the unit at one point. So I limped it back into my shop and removed.

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When I took the photo, I didn't think much of the dark color of the bearing. But as I drained the transfer case, the gear oil was a dark color similar to the color of what you see on that bearing. It was not the golden color I was expecting. Once removed, I opened the case and it is dark all inside as well. It is almost like I used a 50/50 concoction of chocolate syrup and gear oil for the transfer case. Heck, below is the inside of both the transfer case & tranny, notice the difference in the gear color.

Transfer case
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Tranny
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Interesting you mentioned that.....an initial phone call made last week asked for the below pic. The staked nut was still in place. So I topped off the transfer case, thinking the low gear oil might be the cause. Took it for a drive and thought I was about to grenade the unit at one point. So I limped it back into my shop and removed.

View attachment 3770193
Curious if that cone can be removed without draining the TC? Mine is really rusted and I'd like to treat that.
 
Curious if that cone can be removed without draining the TC? Mine is really rusted and I'd like to treat that.
Yes, you can remove without draining. However, you may get some residual gear oil out of the cone, but it isn't filled full.
 
Yes, you can remove without draining. However, you may get some residual gear oil out of the cone, but it isn't filled full.

due to the dark chocolate gear oil in the T-case & still blingy in the H42 , you can rule out a compromised seal between the 2 .....right ?


there is more then 1 TSB on both the H42 & stand-alone ones for the T-case also that made dealers aware of a on-going & lagging long-term updated part # supersessions versions for a good several of the detent ball's and there buddy coil spring ....

the springs would crack initially in 2 pieces , but as the truck was still driven , the High Carbon Spring Steel got all Agro on the check-ball inside the little cavity they both share ....

things can go from bad to worse quick ....

don't forget to closely review the Chassis Body FSM , to get a grasp where all are located Rick , some are under the smaller shift-cane top secondary tower , others slide front to back , the T-case does not have this many , but there now so obvious to access , the t-case nose cone ball and spring should simply be replaced as a matter of good course no matter what .......

these are low-cost parts topics , and many are shared same part # spring , same part # detent ball .......fyi

lastly , inspect all 4 shift tower dowel pins ultra- up-close , Any visual wear , or the staked outer side is now not so staked , and you now have a parsec of free-play ? SOR.com there Titanium threaded replacement 2pc service kit without thinking twice , you would be super surprised how a wear and tear or loose-free play glitch or both for that matter totally make shifting up or down less then crappy , hard & sloppy , this
= all other moving parts now accelerated wear patterns towards certain Doom ...




i hope this helps get things all tight & right once again ... :wrench: :wrench: :wrench: :)

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due to the dark chocolate gear oil in the T-case & still blingy in the H42 , you can rule out a compromised seal between the 2 .....right ?
In the pic above, there is one of those aftermarket hoses that connects the two fill-plugs. I'm pretty sure that everyone with an H42 that has been in service is leaking thru the splines between the transmission and transfer case, at least a bit. The course-splines on the three speeds output shaft outshine in this department. H42s need the overflow hose between the two gear boxes; my transmission is usually overflowing past the fill plug with 90wt, GL4 gear oil.
 
In the pic above, there is one of those aftermarket hoses that connects the two fill-plugs. I'm pretty sure that everyone with an H42 that has been in service is leaking thru the splines between the transmission and transfer case, at least a bit. The course-splines on the three speeds output shaft outshine in this department. H42s need the overflow hose between the two gear boxes; my transmission is usually overflowing past the fill plug with 90wt, GL4 gear oil.
I had that @shipmag by-pass hose on my original H42 years ago, but the unit got progressively noisy. So a few years ago I replaced the original H42 with one that was supposedly low mileage. I think the gear oil just started creeping within the last year, hence maybe the reason the tranny's oil not being as dark. As for why the by-pass hose is in the photos, being I was doing some inspections last week and noticed the tranny taking in excess gear oil, I just installed to hope that the low gear oil in the transfer case was the issue.
 

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