Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40

[White Stripe]

Now I'm no Oil Chemist, just a lowly architect, so take this with a grain of salt. This is not to start a pissing contest about oil and their additive packages, but I believe Moly in oil is a friction modifying additive & ZDDP is an anti wear additive. One you shouldn't do without and one you could do without.

Ya I had was under the assumption that many synthetics use moly. Looks like your oil has higher than the standard phosphorous. Is that from the synthetic you used alone or did you put in a seperate additive along with the valvoline?

 

[GA Architect]

Flat-tappet engines (such as all F-series) really need Zinc and Phosphorus (ZDDP) to keep the camshaft from wearing prematurely. No one (in first-world countries) makes flat-tappet engines anymore, so Zinc and Phosphorus have been phased out of motor oil in the U.S. because they kill orphans and puppies and unicorns, or at least are hard on catalytic converters.

Hence the oil I use, valvoline VR1 20w50. It is a Dino oil that is actually high in zinc & phosphorus, as we can see per the lab results.

 

[GA Architect]

Ya I had was under the assumption that many synthetics use moly. Looks like your oil has higher than the standard phosphorous. Is that from the synthetic you used alone or did you put in a seperate additive along with the valvoline?

Stripe - That test result is straight Valvoline VR1 20w50 and no additional additives. It is a Dino oil, not synthetic.

 

[GA Architect]

@GA Architect What does that dryer-vent-hose-like-looking thing do? It's connected to your air cleaner and routes down around your manifold. Don't recall seeing that on a 40 before.

Beautiful engine compartment, by the way.

I'm not exactly sure what the official name is, but the hose is used for supplying warmer air off the manifold to mix with the ambient outside air going into the carb upon start-up. This helps warm up the engine on a cold morning. Once the engine is at operating temp, there is a heat activated spring closer where that hose hooks into the air cleaner, and it closes once that optimal temp is reached.

 

[White Stripe]

Stripe - That test result is straight Valvoline VR1 20w50 and no additional additives. It is a Dino oil, not synthetic.

Cool!

 

[GA Architect]

So they basically do the analysis for you and tell you their findings etc. Not a bad price for that service I guess..Do you plan on sticking with the VR-1 oil after complete break in? (A TLC engine probably needs 5 to 10K to really be broken in!) Curious why you wouldn't go with a synthetic like Mobile 1 or similar?

Cheers!

Break in oil I used: Joe Gibbs Break-In oil
Regular oil I use: Valvoline VR1 20w50
Oil Filter I use: Baldwin B2

Why I don't use a synthetic oil you ask. Research told me that most Land Cruiser mechanics on this forum are not using synthetic oil in the 2F engine. Also, the guy that built my engine advised me to run Valvoline 20w50. Thus, being I could choose any oil to use, the Valvoline VR1 20w50 is a personal preference I guess?

 

[1Fine40]

Sounds fair enough to me! Obviously you can use whatever you desire and this sure appears to be the right stuff according
to the analysis results. I still can't get over how clean that bay is!

BTW, I did get the vapor barriers installed in my doors that you made, perfection! Many thanks as it would have taken me way too long to try and replicate them.

 

[GA Architect]

For a follow-up on my post #1129, installing the seam sealer. We had one of those GA afternoon down-pours yesterday. I'm happy to report, the passenger side floor board was dry as the Arizona desert....the driver side floor mat, well it had some moisture on it! But that was due to me being a dumb a$$ and leaving the driver's side kick vent open.

As for the seam sealer project, I'd call it a success!

 

[GA Architect]

Valve adjustment yesterday. A few too tight, and one too loose.

 

[GA Architect]

With the air cleaner housing off for the valve adjustment, I noticed a rotten accelerator pump boot. Lucky, I had an extra Keyster kit laying around with one in it, thus the busted boot was replaced.

 

[GA Architect]

The old hot air intake hose needed replacing, so here is my solution.

The old unit that was replaced:

 

[DSB345]

I'm always amazed at how clean your engine bay is Rick

 

[TheHardWay]

So that's what the hot air intake hose connects to. Hmmmm. And the metal elbow bolts to something underneath the manifold? BTW, that head cover is awesome. I want one!

 

[GA Architect]

So that's what the hot air intake hose connects to. Hmmmm. And the metal elbow bolts to something underneath the manifold? BTW, that head cover is awesome. I want one!

The metal elbow bolts directly to the exhaust manifold.

 

[tstepp920]

I probably missed it....what/where did you get your replace hose ?

 

[GA Architect]

I probably missed it....what/where did you get your replace hose ?

Due to having order such a long piece, as soon as I get some dimensions off the original part, I'm going to make up a few and sell them for cheap. I think I'll have 5 or 6 pieces, and will sell them for a stateside shipped price of $10/piece.

Note: My new hot air intake hose has a 55MM ID and fits very snug.

 

[GA Architect]

Being that I repaired my firewall to cowl seam, I've not been so apprehensive about driving my rig in the rain. Yesterday, here in Georgia, was a good day for testing that 3M Seam Sealer I installed a few weeks ago.....It Passed!

Also, wanted to see how that new hot air intake hose would take the heat, being skeptical about the manufacturing saying it was for high temps....It Passed too!

When checking on the new hot air intake hose last night, I took a few over head shots of my engine bay.

 

[tstepp920]

Save one for me. Let me know when and how you want to be paid

 

[murf]

I changed my tires and wheels to go with more of a classic-mod look. Thanks for the inspiration GA Architect!

 

[GA Architect]

Not too much to report these days. However, I have installed both new front and rear 3.70 differentials. Rebuilt the front knuckles, front brakes & rear drums. Let's just say, I'm setting my rig up to travel......(Thank you, @orangefj45 & Clint!)