Geesh.... you’d think our favorite architect is OCD about his engine bay after reading this!
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I don't know about the rest of you but I am devastated by the state of neglect Rick's 40 is in. Did you see the dust on the steering column clam shell. Disgusting....he should be ashamed.
I'm to blame for the state of his rig.
Bailiff, whack his pee-pee!
Thank you, this is going in my signature.
Just to make sure you know, it's a Cheech and Chong reference - you may be too young to know about Cheech and Chong?
I meant to take some photos before I tried to clean the engine compartment. As you can see, even after a mediocre cleaning, there is still Colorado dirt in there.
From a few feet away, it's relatively still nice in there.
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But upon a closer inspection.....
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Oh well, I rubbed a little dirt on it, and all is good with the 40!
I meant to take some photos before I tried to clean the engine compartment. As you can see, even after a mediocre cleaning, there is still Colorado dirt in there.
From a few feet away, it's relatively still nice in there.
View attachment 2423402
But upon a closer inspection.....
View attachment 2423403
View attachment 2423404
View attachment 2423405
View attachment 2423406
Oh well, I rubbed a little dirt on it, and all is good with the 40!
Being that I run 32" tires and upgraded my 3rd members to 3.70 gears, my speedometer was obviously off. So after installing the new 3rds, I did a few test runs using GPS speeds vs the OEM speedometer. I took the GPS speed and divided by the OEM speedometer, and that was my ratio for a correction device. For my rig, I ran the speedo up to 40 and the GPS was a 48. The I ran the speedo up to 50 and the GPS was at 60. Thus my calculation were 48/40 and 60/50 which equaled 1.20 as my correction ratio.
I did a lot of research on MUD and found a company out of Sacramento, CA - Commercial Speedometer. Gave them a call, talked to Chuck, and he built me a Correction Syncro box and shipped it out that night. Great guy to work with!!! It arrived 2 days later, and for $85 bucks shipped from west coast to east coast, BARGAIN!.....And let me just say, it is nice knowing that when I'm looking at my Gauge Cluster, my speedometer is actually a useful device now.
Here is correction box installed.
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I know it's been a while since this post but do you remember if you installed an o-ring or anything between the synchro box and the speedo housing? I'm tyring to install mine now and the threads are bottoming out before it snugs up flush with the housing. Now that I'm typing this maybe that felt pad that came with the driven gear kit would work? Also, how did you tighten that brass nut? Or did you just go finger tight?
I recently had the exact same problem also with my AFR eventually sticking at 9.6Sniper update: I've been driving my 40 most every day for the last few months. Last Friday when I started it, my Sniper's AFR screen initially read "SLOW" (in red) then switched to numbers a few seconds later. None the less, I drove it to work with no issues. Then on the way home later that day, the AFR started reading 9.6 while driving (4th gear & 50mph) and then started running rough. I did made it home, but it was a little nerve wracking. I searched the Holley forums, and really couldn't find the exact issue & remedy. However, one thread said that it was possibly the WBO2 sensor going bad. So I had a back-up, and installed it Saturday. The truck ran fine on the test drive over the weekend, as well as into work this morning.
Question: Has any other Sniper owner's run into this before? If so, what was your analysis and cure?
I have never thought of speakers like that in the half doors on my 1972. That seems intriguing!! I might have to try that...Upgraded the speakers this weekend....they sure sound sweet, compared to the other ones I installed a few years back.
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For now, I plugged up the two old speaker locations with some 4-3/4" caplugs.
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I recently had the exact same problem also with my AFR eventually sticking at 9.6
I read through the Sniper forums and it looks like my O2 sensor is malfunctioning. To confirm I disabled the closed loop function by going into the Tuning >Advanced>Closed Loop Enable>Press DISABLED and save. If the O2 sensor is malfunctioning the Sniper will use the data from the learn file and your engine should run well in Open Loop. I did this with my engine and it runs fine.
I also read in the forums that there maybe a software/hardware issue with some Snipers that's causing the O2 sensors to prematurely fail. I've already installed two sensors and I'm hesitant with installing another one until I talk with a Sniper tech. I've attempted several times to contact Holley but have been put on eternal hold both times. Per the forums, the fix is to send the entire throttle body to repair the problem.
Otherwise my FJ40 is running well in Open Loop.