Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[tstepp920]

Damn that thing is "puuurty"

 

[GA Architect]

Goodness, what a different drive it was to my office with the top back on. It was peacefully quite, albeit for the radio. Not to mention, being that I did a 100% refurbished of the doors, when I shut either one, it slams with a "THUD". No more rattling inner pieces...

 

[dtbnz]

Great truck, and you have/are doing a fantastic job.
My truck was a soft top when I bought her 15 years ago and have decided to put the rear cab and roof back on it.
Been repairing the sides, the roof is not too bad however, the previous owner cut through the front pin/rivets that go into the holes on the top of the front window frame.
As you have recently put your roof on, can you explain how it is secured onto the front window frame please. Are the pins that have been cut off mine just for locating the roof through the holes in window frame top?
And is the roof bolted to the front of frame through the two holes in roof through fabricated bit at front of roof?
Been searching and asking but no one has replied.
Any help or pictures would be appreciated from yourself or any other members.

Go the All Blacks against Ireland in Chicago

 

[GA Architect]

Great truck, and you have/are doing a fantastic job.
My truck was a soft top when I bought her 15 years ago and have decided to put the rear cab and roof back on it.
Been repairing the sides, the roof is not too bad however, the previous owner cut through the front pin/rivets that go into the holes on the top of the front window frame.
As you have recently put your roof on, can you explain how it is secured onto the front window frame please. Are the pins that have been cut off mine just for locating the roof through the holes in window frame top?
And is the roof bolted to the front of frame through the two holes in roof through fabricated bit at front of roof?
Been searching and asking but no one has replied.
Any help or pictures would be appreciated from yourself or any other members.

Go the All Blacks against Ireland in Chicago

dtbnz - My roof didn't have any pins to locate it, here have a look.

As you can see, there are only two bolts that hold the roof down to the front windshield frame.

If you are asking if all the holes on the top of the windshield frame had pins in them, they did not. I'm not 100% certain as to what they are for, but I would guess they are attachment locations for the factory soft top rail? For the hard top rigs, the weather stripping covers them up. I actually tapped the holes in mine to M8-1.25 to install the bikini top rail, but I have rubber plugs in the holes now while the hard top is on.

Now, if you are thinking the two holes on the top corners of the front windshield frame are for pins, they are not. They are there to let the dome light wiring pass thru. This wiring comes up thru that hole and is run to the back of door, where there is a larger hole in the roof cap that lines-up with a hole in the left rear side panel, and down to the dome light. This wiring is tucked into the inner gutter where there are two clips that hold the wire down. Being my rig is left hand drive, the dome light is mounted on the left side just past the door, see photo below....I would venture a guess a right hand drive would have the done light mounted on the right side.

 

[drnekFJ40]

I just took the doors off on the driver side yesterday to change the bushings and woooow-what a ride without doors!!!!Best feeling ever driving any vehicle!!!I will put s.bostons bushings there....I got my cruiser in NC at this moment so weather is still great....Rick you doing a great job on your cruiser.....

 

[Disasterman]

Can't wait for that "quite ride" myself, wind/whistling with the soft top/doors & windows closed is a bit much. Question about your seats, what are they? Biggest complaint about my truck is the seats, looking for a solution.

 

[GA Architect]

Can't wait for that "quite ride" myself, wind/whistling with the soft top/doors & windows closed is a bit much. Question about your seats, what are they? Biggest complaint about my truck is the seats, looking for a solution.

I have the Procar Rally Seats and really like the ride in them. I am contemplating about swapping them out for the lower side bolsters of the Procar Elite Lumbar 1200.

 

[Disasterman]

I will take a look at those, rally seats sound like the perfect balance. I am a seat snob with a bad back. I have bought a lot of race seats through Recaro & Race Tech, never thought about the rally side.

 

[dtbnz]

dtbnz - My roof didn't have any pins to locate it, here have a look.

View attachment 1346548

As you can see, there are only two bolts that hold the roof down to the front windshield frame.

After your info I can see now that what I thought were pins that had been cut off, after further inspection, I can see that the rivets that hold the bracket with two bolts holes, have been dressed down with an angle grinder so they have a lower profile (thought they had been cut off).
So that is great, as I thought there must be more than the two bolts holding roof on at front. All good now.
Been repairing sides mostly at ends, and while I have still a few minor repairs to do on the roof, slowly getting there. Got all the rubbers I need, after advice from City Racer LLC Parts Store.

Interesting your comment about the dome light, yes its on right side, and where the side fits into the tub, there is a hole in side and tub, that the wires for my dome light came up from the floor behind the sill. They had a connector up near the dome light. May have been how someone else in NZ wired it. Will check out to see if there any wires up under the window frame that it should have been powered from.
Anyway thanks heaps for your info, and keep on posting.

 

[GA Architect]

View attachment 1346774

View attachment 1346775

View attachment 1346776

Be sure to install the set screws for those post. Possibly could help keep the rattles down.

 

[GA Architect]

Installed some new OEM wipers (85220-95402) & a battery carrier (74403-60011).

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Be sure to install the set screws for those post. Possibly could help keep the rattles down.

Dang right it keeps the rattle down. I fought a rattle for a week on a fishing trip only to find the bolt loose on that hardtop post while getting off the highway 10 miles from my house. Tightened it down and enjoyed a squeak free 10 miles home.

 

[GA Architect]

As some know, I typically like using OEM parts on my rig when possible. However, two weeks ago when showing a friend my engine, I noticed some antifreeze in the top rim of my radiator. I monitored it for a few days, and sure enough, after I re-torqued the OEM clamps, it still leaked a small amount. That will never do! So I purchased this AWAB Marie grade hose clamp kit - smooth interior band. These are 316 marine stainless steel, non perforated with rolled edges for soft hose use. So I cleaned the connections and reinstalled the hose with two clamps at each end. While only a few miles into this, I'm happy to report that the leaking has stopped......but I'll have to get used to the look.

Pictures, because we all love them.

 

[cult45]

They're like the twin shock of the 80's. But functional. Dig the offset screw heads.

 

[GA Architect]

Spent some time with a goat up on Lookout Mountain of the Cumberland Plateau this past weekend. Put a couple hundred miles on my rig and enjoyed every moment of it.

Here is an "oxymoron" for our 40's!...

Out in Mother Nature.

 

[GA Architect]

A few more from my excursion. Crystal Lake Lodge B&B in Mentone, Alabama.

At Walter's Forge, a Blacksmith shop in Henagar, Alabama.

All because of this.....

 

[GA Architect]

Still finding things to restore on my rig, and the gauge cluster was next. With the worn faded needles and not so clear glass, see photo below, I was determined to do something about it. Thus I unplugged the fusible link at the battery, took all the slack from the speedometer up to the firewall and then removed the two screws, speedometer cable, the gauge's electrical connector, and out came the gauge cluster.

While putting my thoughts & plan together, I had previously bought some of this:

Removal of the gauge cluster revealed a dusty/dirty mess behind there....a virtual pigsty!

Cleaned it up a bit....

Then I bent a few tabs and off with face of the cluster. Cleaned the inside all up and took some time extra care cleaning the glass. Pull out my small paint brushes, covered the face of the gauges, and threw some paint on the needles.

 

[GA Architect]

After about four or five coats of paint on the needles, I was very pleased with the finished product, so I put the cluster back together.....

Then I reinstalled the gauge cluster, hooked up the speedometer & connector, then the fusible link, and took it for a test drive. I'm happy to report, all gauges are working, the needles are nice and visible, and I'm pleased-as-punch with the outcome.

 

[Disasterman]

Nice write up as always. Did you do anything to enhance the lighting of the cluster?

 

[GA Architect]

Nice write up as always. Did you do anything to enhance the lighting of the cluster?

Thanks! I did install two LED's for the face (Superbright - 194 LED), but kept with the OEM incandescent bulbs for the turn signals & hi/lo headlight.

And if LED's are what you are looking for, ran across this web page: FJ40 LED Lighting