Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (12 Viewers)

[78fj40mg]

"Yota" Logic..

The display of controversial behaviors or feelings, justified and explained in "seemingly rational" purchases or acquisitions of otherwise unneeded Toyota parts. Correspondingly the trigger mechanism for this behavior will manifest as a wanton act, in this case a broken mirror, in order to avoid the true explanation/motivation for the expenditure of funds.

Yota logic primarily happens in two steps:

1. A decision, action, judgement is made for a given reason, or no (known) reason at all (in cases for instance of unobtanium).
2. A Yota logic rationalization is performed, constructing a seemingly good or logical reason, as an attempt to justify the act after the fact (I need a floor-mat)

Yota Logic, encourages irrational or unacceptable behavior, motives, or feelings and often involves ad hoc hypothesizing. This process ranges from fully conscious (as external defense against ridicule from jeep owners) to mostly unconscious (I really need a second set of OEM Fog Lights). TLC owners will utilize Yota Logic for various reasons — sometimes when we think we know ourselves better than we do, Mudd forum members are required not only to encourage this behavior, but reward this behavior with accolades, congratulatory posts and prerequisite kudos.....Just say'en..

Jeff, I'm sure you were at top of your class in Psych 101 in any case I'll drink to that!

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Had a hour to spare last night, so I decided to address a noisy drivers side door. Removed the handle, opener/lock bezel, window crank, and removed the panel....look at what I pulled out:

View attachment 1109603

After removal of years worth of, "How did that get in there", I took white lithium grease to the cranking mechanism and gears. I installed some foam padding where the locking linkage was ratting on the door. Also readjusted the window channel felts that had fallen into the bottom of the door....and all these channels & felts will be an up and coming replacement before too long.

Door didn't rattle getting in this morning, nor while driving to the office.

Great job Rick!!

I hope I'm not too late... I could really use that hair!!

 

[Honger]

...ad hoc hypothesizing.

I think we all know where we can turn for help with this. =)

 

[GA Architect]

Finally got around to installing my new Energy Suspension body mounts. I started the process a few weeks ago by applying PB Blaster to all the bolts. This last Saturday, I took the plunge and started the process. I went to my local Harbor Freight and bought me a Sawzall and some metal cutting blades. I put the rear on jack stands, removed the rear tires, removed my brake lights and their rear covers. Once that was done, I went to wrenching.

As I've mentioned earlier, the two front body mounts were not going to be removed without a fight. Well, you can see who won. Here have a look at all the old body mounts. Note, I took an easy accessible body mount to practice with the sawzall first.

Below is what was installed:

 

[GA Architect]

And for some installed photos of my new body mounts:

 

[GA Architect]

Follow-up on the body mounts. For a novice wrench who is OCD with the means and methods of any process, it took me quite some time on this procedure. It took about 8 hours in total, over three days. For the two front problematic body mounts, 90% of the time was consumed. I didn't know exactly how to tackle the sawzall'ed bolt that left the top part of the bolt above the body mount. The first one, I used some vice grips to hold it and drilled that sucker till it separated from the threaded metal top piece. And what was left of that bolt just fell out, albeit a few hours later. But persistence paid off....So the other front body mount, I was ready last night with a plan of action for the fight. A few cuts with the sawzall, and that bolt was able to wiggled out with out drilling. I guess it knew what was coming and decided discretion was the better part of valor, so it waved the white flag and surrendered without too much of an incident.

As for separating the body and the frame, at the second from the font body mount, I hooked a chain around the frame and to the bottom of my floor jack. Took a small metal pipe and placed it between the jack and body cross member. A few pumps on the jack, and separation was achieved. Did this for both sides and it worked like a charm.

Me so happy!

Next up, cleaning the frame and applying some POR-15.

 

[78fj40mg]

Great job Rick! This will be a distant future project for me.

 

[davegonz]

Would you say that the Energy kit is better than the Daystar kit?

 

[Honger]

Looks very well fought.

I think I've seen this complained about before, but I'd like to confirm... The hardware in that new kit is Inch not Metric isn't it?

 

[GA Architect]

Would you say that the Energy kit is better than the Daystar kit?

Dave,
Being this was my very first body mount installation, I can not comment about the Daystar kit. When I did my initial research, I choose the Energy kit over the Daystar, the reason for my choice is escaping me at this time. But I think the Daystar kit doesn't have the bushings for the side steps or the rear tub pad and I know the Energy one does. The Daystar kit looks to be more like the OEM though. Also, I know the Energy kit uses standard size wrenches in lieu of metric. As with most aftermarket items for our rigs, there are plus and minus for each.

Maybe the reason I chose the Energy Suspension kit was because it is more complete?....

 

[GA Architect]

Looks very well fought.

I think I've seen this complained about before, but I'd like to confirm... The hardware in that new kit is Inch not Metric isn't it?

Confirmed, the Energy Suspension kit uses standard wrench sizes in lieu of metric.

 

[Honger]

Confirmed, the Energy Suspension kit uses standard wrench sizes in lieu of metric.

Ugh! That's just going to bother me so much.

Do you notice a difference in the truck at all? I mean while driving...

 

[GA Architect]

Ugh! That's just going to bother me so much.

Do you notice a difference in the truck at all? I mean while driving...

Being that I use my rig as a daily driver on most days and it isn't a show piece, I don't mind the kit I installed. Also, the $85 aftermarket complete Energy Suspension kit was an easier pill to swallow than $350 (plus) for OEM body bushings only. As for mixing and matching SAE with Metric bolts, I don't like it but I do have both types of wrenches in my tool box.

As for the driving difference you ask. The past two mornings, I was thinking about how much smoother/quieter the ride was on the way into work. The original bushings were worn out to the point they probably offered less than 10% of their original cushion. Here is the best way I can describe it, for an easy comparison walk on a new gravel lot in a pair of thin sole shoes, then put on a pair of thick rubber bottom ones and take the same walk......you be the judge.



This is the new:

vs
These are the old:

Disclaimer Note: You would never catch me in a pair of either of those above. They are shown for diagrammatic purposes only.

 

[GA Architect]

I'm removing the carpet out of the rear of my rig and going to replace with a cut-to-fit $32 dollar (48" x 72") commercial rubber mat from Home Depot:

First, I had to remove a bed full of double sided tape some PO thought was a good idea to hold the carpet in place......And if you were in my neighborhood Saturday night, you may have heard a few curse words being slung from my basement!!!!! Until yesterday, I was using my heat gun, then scraping about 1" at a time, and that was a painstakingly slow process to say the least. Got about 1/2 of the bed done before I had to head to a family reunion yesterday. Being pissed-off at the OP & tape job, I coated the rest with WD-40 before I left. Came back that afternoon, and what do you know, I could just pull up the tape!....Should have known WD-40 was my best friend!

Halfway thru (3 hours worth of work):

After the liberal use of WD-40 (15 minutes worth of work).....WINNER!!!!

Now, a little touch-up paint, cut out a bed pattern, trim the mat, install and I'll be happy. Finished photos will be posted once completed....

 

[Racer65]

There is also a product called Goof-Off available at most hardware stores that will remove the residues without harming the underlying surface.

 

[Honger]

There is also a product called Goof-Off available at most hardware stores that will remove the residues without harming the underlying surface.

For all the claims of being safe on the underlying surface, and this goes for Goo Gone as well, make sure you test Goof-Off on a small area first. I swear by Goo Gone myself and like Goof-Off well enough... but I've heard bad stories about both. So I always test. Just my 7 fils (UAE equivalent to 2 cents).

 

[Honger]

Being pissed-off at the OP & tape job, I coated the rest with WD-40 before I left. Came back that afternoon, and what do you know, I could just pull up the tape!....Should have known WD-40 was my best friend!

And now your Cruiser has a pleasing aroma!

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Smells like victory...

 

[handcannon]

Hey GA, I know this isn't tech, but I have another use for WD-40 that came about because I was giving my wife a bad time. Our daughter liked to chew gum (this was many years ago) and we kept telling her not to go to bed with any gum in her mouth. Well, she eventually did, and woke up with the gum in her hair, right down next to the scalp, making it not a good thing to just cut out the gum.

My wife tried many things to remove the gum, hair spray, butter, etc, without success. Being an committed wiseacre I was giving her a bad time about using WD-40 since it works for so many different things. She eventually gave up on everything else and tried it. We were both surprised as the WD-40 just dissolved the gum right there as we watched it.

So, don't be surprised at how many different uses WD-40 has. I no longer am.

Don

 

[GA Architect]

Last night I cut my pattern for the rear bed out of some Firestone 90 mil heavy duty EPDM rubber roofing I have. This stuff looked great in the back, sitting on top of my Home Depot UltraTouch radiant barrier blanket insulation, so I'm going to leave it in there. I'll cut a top pad for the upper section out of the rubber mat here soon.....also replaced the rusted rear heater bolts with some of my stainless steel ones.