The 2H/12H-T/1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Gturbo Alternative Tech Thread (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I would never run my EGT that high. 1350 max maybe but your number look a lot more realistic when it comes to power and torque output.

Yeah, sorry, that was a mistake. Now I've redone it at 1350F (730C): BorgWarner MatchBot

Drive pressures make more sense now. That calculator doesn't take into account pumping losses from drive pressure so it shows no difference in power from a smaller turbine with higher drive pressure.
Now on the EFR7064 turbo.
 
Yeah, sorry, that was a mistake. Now I've redone it at 1350F (730C): BorgWarner MatchBot

Drive pressures make more sense now. That calculator doesn't take into account pumping losses from drive pressure so it shows no difference in power from a smaller turbine with higher drive pressure.
Now on the EFR7064 turbo.
Thanks for clearing up those very key points. I knew I was missing a lot of realistic data so I would leave it alone!
 
I think you have the claims wrong. Kiwidingo wasn't claiming lower drive pressure is better. Because everyone already knows that. Kiwidingo was claiming he could perform magic that defeated all the laws of physics with a wastegate setting.

A well matched turbo can beat 1:1 at high load and low rpm. As your RPM climbs the EMP always rises and as EGT falls the EMP also rises. This is why you'll get the best EMP:IMP ratio at the lowest rpm that you hit max boost and at the highest load.
Wrong! What @Socal81 said it's correct, I'm totally claiming lower drive pressure is better. Drive pressure needs to be lower than boost pressure at ALL times, doesn't matter if it's hot/cold/whatever other rubbish this guy comes up with.

A well matched turbo can achieve this at all RPM and you'll be amazed at the power and drivabilty you'll unlock when doing so without the need to run stupidly high boost levels like most people think they need to. This has nothing to do with wastegate settings, that's a whole different discussion again, that's all to do with earlier torque build and drivabilty during spool which this guy also fails to understand. Getting boost as fast as possible and forgetting about everything else effecting performance isn't the ideal
 
Thanks for clearing up those very key points. I knew I was missing a lot of realistic data so I would leave it alone!

You should start a Borg Warner Matchbot thread.

Hot tip is you can use it to size other turbos too. You just need the maps.
 
I’m getting ready to go to a twin scroll. Keep us updated. Very interesting
I have been DD'ing the HDJ for a month now, and i'm super impressed.
I'm still on stock fueling adjustments and i have no regrets choosing the #16 housing. Yes it wakes up little later than the stock paddle wheel ct26, but there is the screws holding the reserve.
Boost pressure and exhaust manifold pressure comes very well hand in hand, while EMP is about 0.1-0.2 bar less than boost.
Max boost is currently limited to 1 bar due to injection pump cutting fueling.
Exhaust gas temperatures has been up to 650c.
 
I have been DD'ing the HDJ for a month now, and i'm super impressed.
I'm still on stock fueling adjustments and i have no regrets choosing the #16 housing. Yes it wakes up little later than the stock paddle wheel ct26, but there is the screws holding the reserve.
Boost pressure and exhaust manifold pressure comes very well hand in hand, while EMP is about 0.1-0.2 bar less than boost.
Max boost is currently limited to 1 bar due to injection pump cutting fueling.
Exhaust gas temperatures has been up to 650c.
Sorry what turbo is this again?
 
I’d love to see how it responds overall. What’s your boost and egts at WOT at say 1500 rpm, 2000rpm...2500rpm....3000rpm? Are you using it as a true twin scroll manifold?
 
I’d love to see how it responds overall. What’s your boost and egts at WOT at say 1500 rpm, 2000rpm...2500rpm....3000rpm? Are you using it as a true twin scroll manifold?
I probably need to record a video how it performs.

Check out my build thread for more pics. It's not up to date yet tho.
Growing the family -> HDJ80 VX
 
I must say that is some very impressive work. I like your intercooler piping.
What compressor do you have on your hx35. 50, 52, 54mm etc?
exducer diameter?
Did you run an oil restrictor?
Is it loud?
Does it make you smile?
 
I must say that is some very impressive work. I like your intercooler piping.
What compressor do you have on your hx35. 50, 52, 54mm etc?
exducer diameter?
Did you run an oil restrictor?
Is it loud?
Does it make you smile?
Thank you.

54mm compressor 60mm turbine. Don't recall exducer diameters right now.
No oil restrictions in feed line.
Turbo itself is not loud. Exhaust is.
Everytime i turn the key and drive to horizon.
 
Been looking on Holset turbos lately, how well would a 12H-T and HX35 Super come together?

Compressor: 54/77mm
Turbine: 65/55mm
Turbine housing: Single entry T3 8cm
Is this the wheel specs of the turbo you ended up choosing? Although you said your running the larger #16 housing, or is it just labeled as #16 housing because you went the twin scroll version?
 
Last edited:
Is this the wheel specs of the turbo you ended up choosing? Although you said your running the larger #16 housing, or is it just labeled as #16 housing because you went the twin scroll version?
No no no. This post you quoted is not related at all.
 
Something about Mamba Turbo from taiwan.
I bought last year a turbo for my 1HD-FT from Mamba Taiwan.
They offer this as a kit and it came with hoses, bolts, gaskets and so on

Unfortunatly the customer service from that company is complete rubbish and I am sure that they have never seen a 1HD-FT
engine in reality.
( I just hope that the turbo specs will suit the engine and my needs)

Bad things:
Turbo gasket to dump pipe is useless!
This gasket is to big and blocks the push rod of the Mamba actuator
Had to order the OEM gasket

Oild rain fitting and hose are undersized
So I had to modify the OEM oil drain and feed fitting to use that on the mamba turbo

Water hoses are totally useless, wrong in length and the also need a 90° fitting to get aligned properly
(let those get pressed from a hyraulic shop)

The barb connector for the vacuum tube from compressor housing to the actuator is also completly useless,
the intake hose from airbox to the compressor intake does not leve enough space.
Here a 90° barb fitting is needed too.

A notch on the OEM cast iron dump pipe adapter is in the way of the actuator too,
that I could grind off quick to make it work


So I complained to Mamba that I had to spend quite a ammount for OEM parts and custom made items
And demanded a refund

No reaction from their side

So it took quite a while to do the modifications, source and order OEM and aftermarket parts to get a proper fitment

In the end, I would not recommend to buy from Mamba
They did not made any test of fitment, their customer support is pretty bad

What I recommend is the OEM turbo of a 1HD-FTE
That is mostly a plug and play
And made from a Japanese company and not moered together from some wannabees

photo_2020-04-19_23-10-19.jpg


photo_2020-04-19_23-10-23.jpg


photo_2020-04-19_23-09-58.jpg


photo_2019-10-26_17-05-54.jpg
 
I think you're expectations are a lot higher than most from this budget friendly orientated company. Mamba is a great option but you're always going to have issues with their supplied fittings and hoses. Even well known much more expensive turbo brands like Gturbo, UFI, Munro, Eclipse, MMP etc all use genuine toyota gaskets/fitting/hoses or at least recommend that you do. My gturbo didn't come with anything as they instructed people at the time to use all the fittings from the replaced OEM turbo. The issue with the water cooling can be very easily fixed by just not using any, on diesel applications water cooling for journal bearing turbos is not needed. That straight nipple on the compressor housing is also the standard fitting for most turbos, my gturbo also came with a straight nipple fitted and I had no issues with using it. I guess your intake elbow starts its bend a lot closer to the inlet than most as quite a lot of CT26 turbo's i've worked on have a straight fitting and worked well. I've also had that same issue with the gate arm hitting the dump pipe on a couple of turbos, not just mamba, and all I had to do was loosen the 4 flange nuts and there would be some movement in the dump alignment which then allowed full gate arm travel. Either that or just bend the arm out slightly to give clearance, which can also sometimes get pushed in during bad handling or packaging during shipping. I now always make sure I hold and push the dump away from the gate side when tightening the 4 flange nuts to make this play between the studs and dump flange allowed for.

The FTE turbo is a good choice for a really quick spooling turbo due to its much smaller turbine wheel and exhaust housing but keep in mind it runs a much smaller shaft too and has been known to cause issues when running higher boost and possibly bigger comp wheels which people like to install, not to mention the crazy high EMP they run at which is a whole conversation on its own. Also the Compressor cover for the FTE is a bolt on design so you either need to find the inlet pipe to match or swap the housing over to a DT/FT version with the same sized wheel or get it machined to fit.
 
They must have fixed things between when you ordered and since I ordered mine last year, everything worked just fine (except I did have to clearance the bracket that the wastegate attached to, but not the dump. I did switch to a V-band CT26 dump though, so I didn't have the issues you had). All in all, it's been on since September of 2019 with 20k miles (and about half of that towing my travel trailer behind it) and it's been great. For the price I expected to have to do a lot more to make it work right, I really didn't have to do much of anything.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom