Builds Texas Reds - The Tale of Two Red 40’s (1 Viewer)

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I stalled out when I realized I did not have any normal height greaseable shackles. The ones one the truck are 5” eye to eye. Stock are 3”. The OME greaseable are 3” so that keeps your caster good. This truck, not only has 3” taller springs in the front, it also has the aluminum caster shims installed backwards (sorry Drew for tossing you under the bus)

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Rear to the bottom of the flare
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Front to the bottom of the fender
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I’ll be adding light/medium OME which should drop it nice and level with the rear.
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It also gets the proper STEEL shims from Valley Hybrids. Adding more caster is a good thing. FJ40s only came with 1* caster and they are squirrelly already. Giving them some
Extra caster only helps things when steering. These are mandatory on all my lifts.
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I stalled out when I realized I did not have any normal height greaseable shackles. The ones one the truck are 5” eye to eye. Stock are 3”. The OME greaseable are 3” so that keeps your caster good. This truck, not only has 3” taller springs in the front, it also has the aluminum caster shims installed backwards (sorry Drew for tossing you under the bus)

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Rear to the bottom of the flare
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Front to the bottom of the fender
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I’ll be adding light/medium OME which should drop it nice and level with the rear.
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It also gets the proper STEEL shims from Valley Hybrids. Adding more caster is a good thing. FJ40s only came with 1* caster and they are squirrelly already. Giving them some
Extra caster only helps things when steering. These are mandatory on all my lifts.
View attachment 2226313


Thats is funny s***! Now it all makes sense why I had to wear a mouthpiece on trail and why I could never get a copilot!
 
After an hour long conversation with John about the land cruiser we settled on a deal! It was Sunday so no way to get him cash and he was by no means interested in giving me his bank account info to wire him a deposit to hold the cruiser. I was nervous that someone was going to come in behind me and scoop it up, but he told me that I had his word that he would hold it for me as long as I showed up the next day with the cash!
 
I had meetings the next day that I could not get out of, so the next step was to tell my wife that she needed to make plans to go check out the 40. Lucky for me she loves these rigs just like I do, she didn’t bat and eye and was game for the road trip the next day!
 
We spent the rest of the afternoon using our 77’ as a guide to show her where to look for rust on the 67’ the next day. John was not up with latest technology so we could not get any more pics. He was still using a flip phone!
 
After an hour long conversation with John about the land cruiser we settled on a deal! It was Sunday so no way to get him cash and he was by no means interested in giving me his bank account info to wire him a deposit to hold the cruiser. I was nervous that someone was going to come in behind me and scoop it up, but he told me that I had his word that he would hold it for me as long as I showed up the next day with the cash!
He kept his word. I was on it like stink on poo.
 
Mosley Motors Sniper 2300 Install
Woody is testing out a “bookmark” system for build threads where you can easily access tech.
Lay out all the goodies from Mosley.
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This is a step by step to install a Mosley Motors 2300 kit on a 2F.


Ive done a few and they are scattered about my build threads, but this one is the first I’ve done where it’s the only think going on. This is how most people do it so hopefully this will help.

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Step 1. Remove the carburetor and
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Next, select where you want to install the temp sender.

This head has a spare plug area but the threads are not the same pitch as the one provided with the Sniper and the probe is too deep. If you want it to go here you will need an adapter.

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I sealed that one back up and went with the place I usually use on the side of the block. The sniper provided sender has the same threads. This is also a great time to make sure your block is not clogged back there. If you remove the plug and if coolant does not hush out, you are going to have to clear it. That’s a fun job.
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Now you need to stack the Mosley modified adapter with the carb base. I like the OEM heat shield type. All heat off the base of the Sniper is a plus.
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Step 1. Clean. Clean. Clean the old gaskets off. I use these rubber pads on a die grinder.
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Next, mock up your adapter to the heat shield. This one had a additional rib that needed to be removed. I hit it with the bench grinder a bit.
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now they fit nice and tight.

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2022 edit. Since I began using new OEM heat shields I no longer use any Indian Head. I assemble the entire thing dry now.

Finally, a plug for using a bit of Indian Head Around your mounting surfaces. Cam does not recommend OE gaskets in addition to the stock isolator.
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Just a little goes a long way. Next, make sure the vertical bolts that hold the sniper are in place on the manifold side and install the adapter
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Next, put some RTV into the holes on the valve cover side. These holes go directly into the intake and can be a cause of a vacuum leak.
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I use Indian head on the bottom of the Sniper gasket and leave the sniper side dry in case it has to come off. Tighten it down to get a good seal why your Indian Head is still wet.
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2022 edit. Per instruction manual, push the O2 bung at least 6” past collector with header or the bottom curve of the stock pipe. 45* angle. Since i started pushing them further downstream I’ve had less failures.

Next, install the Sniper provided O2 sensor bracket. A pilot hole then step but makes it easy. The factory down pipe is double wall and extra big so the provided clamps do not work. I got larger hose clamps. This comes with a gasket like a header and everyone I know that has used it says it’s fine. You can also buy a weld in bung. If you have a header you will need to put it in the collector
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Next, plug in you Water plug. Then plug in your O2 sensor. Then plug in your small 8 pin harness. (99% of you will not use the 10 pin harness.
This truck already had a bunch of holes in the firewall so I just matched up to existing and mounted the relay and fuse
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Finally, tuck all your wires in and run the LCD cable through the firewall. I used the grimmet up by the brake booster top right.
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Next up. Fuel delivery.
 
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Mosley has been fine tuning his kit and it now includes one single fuel line and the return at the Sniper is capped off. This is because he uses a corvette fuel regulator that allows the return to only happen between the tank and the regulator.

It’s my first and wow, was it easy.

First things first. Remove the old manual pump and put on the provided block off plate.

Clean up the block and stick it on.

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This is the corvette dealio. Put it together like this and mount it to the frame. I picked the bolt hole where the starter ground cable goes.

Feed is the Larger 3/8” outer tube and return is the smaller one in the middle of the tube.

Return and feed to the pump is all low pressure but I still use high pressure fuel clamps and pressure rated hose throughout the project.

If you are a DIY person, make sure you do yourself a favor and use these easy push on and pull off Earl’s fittings. The lock on type are hell if you ever need to take any of the components out.

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Last on the fuel system. Wire the purple wire in the harness to the fuel pump. I used a spare piece to ground the pump.

All right and ready.

Next up. Distributor.

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My friend, that little piece of tech right there (the corvette fuel regulator) is pure gold.

I was just about to route my return line on my 64 project with metal line and was not looking forward to all the fun bending I was going to do. You just saved me hours...

I googled it up and found many choices for that regulator.

this one looks promising as it comes with AN6 fitting built in...

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Thank you sir...
 
My friend, that little piece of tech right there (the corvette fuel regulator) is pure gold.

I was just about to route my return line on my 64 project with metal line and was not looking forward to all the fun bending I was going to do. You just saved me hours...

I googled it up and found many choices for that regulator.

this one looks promising as it comes with AN6 fitting built in...

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Thank you sir...

A word of caution on the Corvette filters and fittings - you get what you pay for. This is not the place to save money. I only trust (and sell/use for builds with my name on them) the Wix and AC Delco filters. The rest are Chinese clones (I’m sure Wix and ACDelco are made in sweatshops too, but they have a better track record) that have a history of leaking.

Same for the fittings. Most of the Corvette filter kits use cheap filters and the cheap AN fittings with the plastic retainer clips which are no bueno. Use the threaded style like above.

The filters with the built-in AN fittings fall into the questionable manufacturer category since they aren’t used in an OE application or made by any of the reputable brands, that I know of.




[Shameless plug] I’d be happy to supply a Corvette filter kit to anyone that needs one :grinpimp:
 
I may go with the Holley version now that I've done some digging and recieved some recommendations. And at 65 bucks, is in the same range as the corvette style.
Any reason to choose one over the other?

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I may go with the Holley version now that I've done some digging and recieved some recommendations. And at 65 bucks, is in the same range as the corvette style.
Any reason to choose one over the other?

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^ that is a stouter product for sure. Little more work to install, but a great choice. Check out @Jdc1 ‘s super clean install:

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