boozewz
SILVER Star
Looking good mate. The finish line is in sight!
Tearing down my HJ47 troopy (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter gswest
- Start date
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Falco80
Burning dinosaur bones...
Very nice, she's going to look great!
swilson
lurker
Exciting stuff!
- Thread starter
- #344
The rust never ends!
Will the fun never end? I brought the side sections home from the storage unit. If you haven't read previously,
I had these parts sandblasted and primered earlier. Now is time to fix the rust and prepeare for final paint.
These sections are 90% good and unfortunately 10% very bad.
Now I have to fix this bad metal. I'm not the expert on these complex types of repairs so hopefully people here on MUD will chime in with sugestions!!
Will the fun never end? I brought the side sections home from the storage unit. If you haven't read previously,
I had these parts sandblasted and primered earlier. Now is time to fix the rust and prepeare for final paint.
These sections are 90% good and unfortunately 10% very bad.
Now I have to fix this bad metal. I'm not the expert on these complex types of repairs so hopefully people here on MUD will chime in with sugestions!!
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2006
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- Greenfield, MA
- Website
- thecarpentryway.blogspot.com
What I found most ideal for patching areas like that was to locate a donor panel (in bad shape on other portions than you will be repairing on your good one) and section out the piece you need from the donor. For the rotted locator pin support area in your third pic, for example, that section of panel is pretty much the same regardless of which length 40 series you look at. If you can't obtain something like that, then patching in piecemeal is the other option of course. For the locator pin, if you cut it out make sure the replacement goes in the exact same spot. You can perhaps fit the panel to the truck's tub after a tack weld or two in that area and tweak the fit before proceeding to weld further.
- Thread starter
- #346
Thanks, I will look for some replacement sections. We were able to get the cowl section locally, so its worth trying.
- Thread starter
- #347
Started on the rust again
I put out a call to the only local shop that restores Cruisers here on the Treasure Coast (FL). A place called Stoneys Extreme 4x4. I asked about some repair pieces that they may have laying around. No call back, so either they don't have any or they're busy. Either way, I started removing the bad metal on the first of the upper side sections. This area obviously is where the post connects the body to the upper half. The post had 2 rust holes, but otherwise it was OK. I grinded away the rust on the post and welded up the holes. Then I cut away the sheet metal that was rusty. Next I'll try to fab up the repair pieces. Only the outside part is cosmetically important, so that's where I'll try to be careful.
I put out a call to the only local shop that restores Cruisers here on the Treasure Coast (FL). A place called Stoneys Extreme 4x4. I asked about some repair pieces that they may have laying around. No call back, so either they don't have any or they're busy. Either way, I started removing the bad metal on the first of the upper side sections. This area obviously is where the post connects the body to the upper half. The post had 2 rust holes, but otherwise it was OK. I grinded away the rust on the post and welded up the holes. Then I cut away the sheet metal that was rusty. Next I'll try to fab up the repair pieces. Only the outside part is cosmetically important, so that's where I'll try to be careful.
I had a very similar issue and did what Hank Jimmy did using a roof from a clean 76 fj 40. The nice thing is that these beautiful machines are so easy to repair that it is not who that tricky to fix them perfectly.
When I lived in Panama there was a bloke who fixed rusty cruisers for a boatyard using scrap metal and soldier. They looked great when he was done...granted he had guaranteed work when the rig returned in a year or two with more rust.
When I lived in Panama there was a bloke who fixed rusty cruisers for a boatyard using scrap metal and soldier. They looked great when he was done...granted he had guaranteed work when the rig returned in a year or two with more rust.
- Thread starter
- #349
Found some body parts
Turns out, the guys down in Hobe Sound Fl. (Stoney's), do have some panel steel sections that I may be able to use. You know, those compound bending metal parts that can't be easily replicated. Inside window corners, etc. We'll see, but the owner there was very nice and I'll take some pics if he doesn't mind when I go back to pick up my finds. I'm reposting some pics of the motor to show him, since he wanted to see what I was up to.
Turns out, the guys down in Hobe Sound Fl. (Stoney's), do have some panel steel sections that I may be able to use. You know, those compound bending metal parts that can't be easily replicated. Inside window corners, etc. We'll see, but the owner there was very nice and I'll take some pics if he doesn't mind when I go back to pick up my finds. I'm reposting some pics of the motor to show him, since he wanted to see what I was up to.
- Thread starter
- #351
Panels
I picked up the panels today from Stoney's Automotive. They're pretty rough, but I can use some of the non-rusted areas (such as the areas where the post come out) and discard the rest. The good thing is they have a lot of spare parts there and the expertise to help out on some of my more complex issues. For instance, the roof I have has some serious rust in a few areas. These guys know how to fix that and have the metal sections there ready to be welded in. They have the headliner in stock for my troopy and can install it when I have them fix the rust on the gutter area. As you can see, the last pic shows an area I need to fix and inconveniently the spare piece is not a good replacement. Oh well, I'll have to fab something for that. You'll never see it, and I'm the perfect welder for those you'll-never-see types of jobs. I forgot to take some pics of their inventory, but Stoney's does have some nice projects and several 40's in need-to-be-restored condition, you can check out their web site at stoneysAutomotive.com. I'm seriously thinking about doing a 40 series next, if I'm still solvent.
I picked up the panels today from Stoney's Automotive. They're pretty rough, but I can use some of the non-rusted areas (such as the areas where the post come out) and discard the rest. The good thing is they have a lot of spare parts there and the expertise to help out on some of my more complex issues. For instance, the roof I have has some serious rust in a few areas. These guys know how to fix that and have the metal sections there ready to be welded in. They have the headliner in stock for my troopy and can install it when I have them fix the rust on the gutter area. As you can see, the last pic shows an area I need to fix and inconveniently the spare piece is not a good replacement. Oh well, I'll have to fab something for that. You'll never see it, and I'm the perfect welder for those you'll-never-see types of jobs. I forgot to take some pics of their inventory, but Stoney's does have some nice projects and several 40's in need-to-be-restored condition, you can check out their web site at stoneysAutomotive.com. I'm seriously thinking about doing a 40 series next, if I'm still solvent.
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- Thread starter
- #352
First post patch attempt
I took my time and decided to replace the entire post section. I was thinking of keeping my post to assure it was positioned right, and just replacing the sheet metal around it. But it looks like the replacement including the post will be able to go in the same spot. As long as got my measurement right.
I took my time and decided to replace the entire post section. I was thinking of keeping my post to assure it was positioned right, and just replacing the sheet metal around it. But it looks like the replacement including the post will be able to go in the same spot. As long as got my measurement right.
- Thread starter
- #353
Before and after
Before and midway, just need to weld it up.
Before and midway, just need to weld it up.
- Thread starter
- #354
Midway
This pic is out of order, but I wanted to show that it took a while checking for fit before I cut the body panel. Then it took a bit of grinding to get it to the point where I'd tack weld it up. Then I'll massage it into something my body guys can make look right. Hopefully!
This pic is out of order, but I wanted to show that it took a while checking for fit before I cut the body panel. Then it took a bit of grinding to get it to the point where I'd tack weld it up. Then I'll massage it into something my body guys can make look right. Hopefully!
This is what I did, placed a part of the hardtop of a BJ40. To get rid of the rolling shutters, that were fitted in.
Falco80
Burning dinosaur bones...
- Thread starter
- #357
2H porn
Yes, it can get obsessive!
Yes, it can get obsessive!
- Thread starter
- #358
Welded in the first post
Nice modification on the windows Troopy HJ45.
I got the first of many repairs done on this side of the hard top. Not the best welds but they should hold. Maybe a little more grinding or a little bit of filler will do the trick.
Nice modification on the windows Troopy HJ45.
I got the first of many repairs done on this side of the hard top. Not the best welds but they should hold. Maybe a little more grinding or a little bit of filler will do the trick.
sweet
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Looks like a perfect fix to me gswest 
, success with all the rust spots.
I am almost ready now, only need to repair the lower parts of the ambulance doors.
, success with all the rust spots.I am almost ready now, only need to repair the lower parts of the ambulance doors.
