Take Death Trap to the next level (1 Viewer)

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I think we need a bigger bore MC like
1-3/16 or 1-1/4”
 
My 0.02 (and that's what it worth)
1) You have 1 ton rated brakes and need a 1 ton rated master (bigger).
2) Alcan - not on the shelf and not cheap, but they know springs and can make them to your specs.
 
My 0.02 (and that's what it worth)
1) You have 1 ton rated brakes and need a 1 ton rated master (bigger).
2) Alcan - not on the shelf and not cheap, but they know springs and can make them to your specs.

alcan just makes leaf springs. We 4-linked the rear and are using coil springs which is what Peter is talking about. The front suspension is 40 series leaf springs and pretty much sorted.
 
It did drive out of the shop and back in today which is always a win in my opinion.
here is a pic of the lower link mount/skid I built which is a lot of steel packed into a small space, I’m quite happy with how it came out.

2nd pic is sitting on stock Gladiator rear coil springs, it looks decent in the pic but in person its about 2-2.5” too low out back


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What is the frame height? I know a few people with linked rears that are coiled, but their springs would probably only work based on frame height.
 
alcan just makes leaf springs. We 4-linked the rear and are using coil springs
Doh! Haha, that's what I get for not re-reading before I click post.
 
What is the frame height? I know a few people with linked rears that are coiled, but their springs would probably only work based on frame height.

I don’t recall offhand but, but coil length bucket/bucket needs to be about 11” at ride height if I remember right
 
I don’t recall offhand but, but coil length bucket/bucket needs to be about 11” at ride height if I remember right

I'll ask around and see.
 
It's closer to 10", it was 11" before we (And by 'we', I mean @cruisermatt) put in the upper coil bucket.
 
The links really work well in this setup. Geometry seems good, little roll steer, reasonable anti-squat, and lots and lots of beautiful travel. But, there were so many things limiting travel. You only have so much room for shocks, and half has to be body, so in 21", there's only so much travel possible. But, as Matt pointed out, with a 23 3/4" drive shaft, down travel is severely limited. We were changing coils and it popped apart. So, we're still not sure how much actual travel we have.
 
Okay, the 4th set of coil springs seems to be right.

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Now, all I need is working brakes.
 
the exhaust on this 40 has some extra special sauce. I built the entire thing in about an hour and it is 100% recycled from @workingdog old 60. it definitely fits the Death Trap theme.
 
Have a 45 with dana 60/ 14 bolt been running an early corvette 4 wheel disc master for 10 years, nice firm pedal!
What bore?
 
Okay, adjusted the brake pedal up that it has enough travel to stop the car. But the pedal is very, very soft and goes all the way to the floor - but there is no problem stopping the car. I have a 1" T100 master in there now. How much bigger should I go? 1 1/8"? Would 1 1/4" be too much (I have one here)?

So, first test drive. Overheating again, out of water. Hood is pushing the radiator hose down into the fan (drive train got tilted up more, putting the fan closer to the radiator hose) - so some issues to work out.

But, the most concerning thing - other than the fact it's way too high for my old ass to get into and out of - is that the back end is out of control. if you drive along about 25 and whip the steering wheel a little, the back end will start to sway back and forth out of control. Like there are no shocks. but there are shocks. However, these shocks were probably under the back of my fj50 and did many miles with much-o weight-o in the back-o. So, maybe they are toast and that's one of the the reasons the 60 drove like crap? They are as close to the stock location as we could get them. But then, I don't understand the finer points of shock geometry, and for all I know someone will chime it how it will never work like that.

Looking to upgrade to some adjustable shocks.

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What does the link geometry look like? How is your roll axis angle?

Do you have a sway bar?
 
Following along and learning with you. A sway bar seems like a good idea to look into.
 
Yes, I think we are going to need a sway bar, but this is worse than just a sway bar. Tomorrow, I will update all the spreadsheet values with actuals, now that it's sitting on tires, and see what it says, but it was pretty good.
 
So, here's the updated spreadsheet. @cruisermatt was able to get all the length we needed out of the links and the angles seem good.

spreadsheet actuals.jpg
 

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