T case fluid leak??? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 11, 2011
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Location
Forest, VA
I had my split case rebuilt about 6 months ago. It leaks about a half a bottle of oil every couple of months, front and rear of the case out puts. Transmission shop says it beacuse of the gl5 oil is working its way out around the seals....... and that the oil is not designed for the older vehicles.

Has anyone else had this problem?
 
or they didn't use rtv on the splines when they assembled and the fluid is coming thru between the shaft and the flange....but I think it's supposed to be gl4 oil in there....the newer stuff is slickerier...rebuilding the split case is not that hard; you need a good brain, factory service manual, some basic tools and a press and some pullers- all stuff every good cruiser owner should own...I had to take mine back apart and use some grey rtv in a few places; splines, a couple bolts and on the case halves and covers... basically everywhere....light smear on both sides of gaskets, and on the idler oring, too...
 
I think Lambcrusher is right... fluid should be gl4 80w90
Yup should be GL-4 SAE 90 for the tranny and transfer, transfer takes 2.2L pg MT-41 of the FSM
 
If gear oil is leaking that fast out of the front and rear outputs.. on a T-case that was supposedly rebuilt 6 months ago, I would ask the shop if they used genuine Toyota oil seals.
New Toyota seals shouldn't leak regardless of what type of oil you put in there. Old seals? Yeah, they could leak. But not brand new Toyota seals....at least I wouldn't think so...
 
Switch oil... run it, monitor.then return to mechanic w/ new evidence. PS mechanics do like to re-use parts to shave cost. and rtv on the splines is good, you may not have gotten that fine touch.
 
Thanks for the heads up.

I will change the fluids. The transmission shop came highly recommended, and they sourced the rebuild kit, but I did supply with 3 cases to snag parts from....
 
Is this a 60 or 62? The reason I ask: the FSM for my 62 claims you can replace the front and rear output shaft seals without removing the case from the vehicle. Meaning, if you or your shop choose to replace the seals (again) it shouldn't require nearly as much time. A glass half full perspective...
 
Is this a 60 or 62? The reason I ask: the FSM for my 62 claims you can replace the front and rear output shaft seals without removing the case from the vehicle. Meaning, if you or your shop choose to replace the seals (again) it shouldn't require nearly as much time. A glass half full perspective...

this is true....but Ih8wurkinunderthetruck. and the split case is both easy enough and forgiving enough to pull it down in oreder to assure the seals get set right...besides, if i had to go in after a pro to fix something, i'd want to check a few other things out while I was in there...
 
....the split case is both easy enough and forgiving enough to pull it down...

@LAMBCRUSHER , based on your posts I'd say your definition of "easy enough" may be slightly different than how some of us would define it. I'm just saying there's an in-between option if you're intimidated by pulling the whole case out. I personally am somewhere between noob and semi-noob, meaning I'm gathering enough confidence to be truly destructive ;)

@TLEX let us know what you decide.
 
I understand that- which is partially why I recommend going the extra step- getting seals drove and set under a truck is not for newbs...of course, YMMV. the older I get, the more I like to stand while thinking...something about the blood pooling on my brain when I'm sideways. A tcase reseal is a mellow saturday with a six pack...but water can be intimidating when you can't see what's in it...sometimes you just gotta jump in...
 
Sorry I have been traveling.... more than I care to admit to..... it was a mostly 62 Frankencase.

Picked up the truck today with new seals and 90w. No spots under the truck. Drove it a few miles and had to park it. I will be looking at it in a few days when I get back home.

Lex
 
I would wager that if oil makes a difference, it's a case of synthetic vs. non-synthetic, not GL4 vs. GL5 dino oil. I had issues with my FJ40 running synthetic oil, and gave up on it for that truck. I doubt the 60 series had radically better sealing technology than the FJ40 did.
 
I have been warned about the slickeryness of synthetic. we all know that REAL is better than FAKE, right?
 
^true dat,
But with the slickery-ness of the advertizing . . . Read the labels, follow FSM.
 

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