Builds Sweet Caroline: 1977 FJ40 Build

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i used the rotella diesel oil for a while - it was talked about in a thread and a lot of people use it. I have recently switched over to high mileage 10w30 with a bottle of zddp and a bottle of marvel.
 
I typically run Rotella-T, but currently have Amsoil diesel in there. I won the Amsoil in a raffle. It has hi ZDDP, though it could be expensive, depending on what your oil change intervals are.
 
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Diesel oils , or at least the majority of the "old style" have a pretty high level of zddp - newer generation diesels use a low ppm grade to keep emission issues at bay and meet requirements of how the new engines are built . Old names like Rotella , Delvac and such have reduced their ppm levels but are still a lot higher than most gasoline engine oils unless you want to buy the expensive break in types - some run over $20/qt , and that hurts at oil changes . Delvac here is about $13/gallon , plus 2 bottles of Rislone zddp additive keep the price decent and meets the engine's needs . As for filters - the current short Toyota filter is fine or some prefer the Wix 51515 (PH8A Fram equivalent) as they are both very high quality and the better design anti-drainback valves . The Wix is quite a bit bigger and holds nearly 1.2qts , so you end up at 8.5qts for an oil change . I have cold started a 2F with the valve cover off at temps below freezing - the 2F's designed like a tractor and pumps the heavy 15W40 without issue although I'd be hesitant to run the valve clearances on the tighter side as they may not get enough oiling once heated up .

Sarge
 
Diesel oils , or at least the majority of the "old style" have a pretty high level of zddp - newer generation diesels use a low ppm grade to keep emission issues at bay and meet requirements of how the new engines are built . Old names like Rotella , Delvac and such have reduced their ppm levels but are still a lot higher than most gasoline engine oils unless you want to buy the expensive break in types - some run over $20/qt , and that hurts at oil changes . Delvac here is about $13/gallon , plus 2 bottles of Rislone zddp additive keep the price decent and meets the engine's needs . As for filters - the current short Toyota filter is fine or some prefer the Wix 51515 (PH8A Fram equivalent) as they are both very high quality and the better design anti-drainback valves . The Wix is quite a bit bigger and holds nearly 1.2qts , so you end up at 8.5qts for an oil change . I have cold started a 2F with the valve cover off at temps below freezing - the 2F's designed like a tractor and pumps the heavy 15W40 without issue although I'd be hesitant to run the valve clearances on the tighter side as they may not get enough oiling once heated up .

Sarge

Thanks Sarge.

I had never heard of diesel oil being used in petrol motors before reading this thread. But judging from the posts here you're certainly not alone in doing so.

Luckily I'm running a diesel so no-one is going to look sideways at me for using a diesel-specific engine oil.. (Not that I really care about people looking sideways at me.)

:D
 
Any thoughts on replacing every bolt for stainless steel? Don't want to break the bank, but I have broken off a few bolts from taking out seats and things like that. I think stainless bolts look great, and so do painted ones, but don't know if its worth all the $$$.
Stainless is great for all those bolts that are subject to corrosion. I would not use them for stuff that really needs to hold, tho'. Anything over ~30 ft/lbs of torque, I would use the OEM stuff-grade 8 or better(depending on the application)-you can search torque specs here on MUD for the details(an old OEM bolt may be way better at holding things together than a new shiny SS bolt)--an example: I would not use 18-8 stainless bolts to mount the steering box-they are way too soft for that
 
Continued...
Speaker box
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Also picked up some new oil and filters. Was wondering what oil you guys use in your 2F engines. I got 10W-30. Seems like it will work fine. Changing oil tomorrow.
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Fram PH8A. I heard on MUD that a PH8 filter is the way to go and the guy at Autozone looked this up on the database and decided they were the same.
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Merry Christmas! :santa::cheers:
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Sweet Caroline--for sure!
 
Looking great, wish my 77 was that shiny. It's an October 1976 and is a 77 model. Agree with what's been said above, though I prefer a napa 1515 filter (similar to or same as the wix 51515). Anything from 10W-30, 10W-40, or 20W-50 seems to work depending on engine condition. I get engine break-in additive from the guys at NAPA for my ZDDP


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Your using larger than stock tires?

You probably are putting on more miles... But ... Not that much more.

8.5mpg is roughly right

I get higher

Others get lower

When did you give it a full tuneup? Cap/rotor/wires/adjust timing/adjust carb/clean out carb/pcv/ plugs/adjust valves... Those things
 
Your using larger than stock tires?

You probably are putting on more miles... But ... Not that much more.

8.5mpg is roughly right

I get higher

Others get lower

When did you give it a full tuneup? Cap/rotor/wires/adjust timing/adjust carb/clean out carb/pcv/ plugs/adjust valves... Those things
Last tuneup was a couple of months ago. I'm also burning a lot of oil. Checked it today and the dipstick shows halfway full.
 
Been tracking mpg for two years on my '77 w/Holley. Consistently getting 11 - 12.
 
I get 12. I got 15 once going to Moab, but it's slightly downhill west of glenwood springs on I-70 and I must have had a tailwind.


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As the Charlotte weather slowly gets warmer, gets extremely cold, and then warms up again I am starting to think about ways to take off the top on the 'ole 40. Was thinking of installing a wench/lift on my garage ceiling similar to the one in the images attached from (FJ40 Hardtop Lift Storage System). Don't know if warp while driving around without the top on will affect the process of putting the top back on. Anyone know how serious of a problem that is if it is one at all? Anyways, might not get this done anytime soon, but hopefully I'll have an easy way to take the top off within the coming months.

Other recent info: Trying to figure out if there is a particular reason I am leaking so much oil. I suspect that the Fram filter isn't doing a good job. There is also brown colored fluid dripping off of the steering column. I am guessing that is power steering fluid because it is not near any other oil leaks. There is a fair amount of fluid in small pools resting in flat spots under the engine (pics to come soon). About a month ago, while driving, my power steering fluid canister didn't have a bolt in and it completely tipped over spilling all of the fluid and also, due to being connected to the timing belt, stretched out the timing belt which was an easy fix, but now makes me worry about the brown fluid coming from the steering column. Any info would help. Thanks!

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Pictures:
1. Liquid is resting right under timing belt
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2. Steering column where I suspect brown liquid is coming from
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3. Brown Liquid dripping off of steering stabilizer shaft (old man emu)
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4. Brown liquid
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5. Power steering fluid canister. No signs of leaks
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