Steering Flush & Cleaning (1 Viewer)

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I'm going to get my snow tires put on soon and figured I'd have Toyota do a PS flush while I'm there. The price isn too bad .

So they claim they hook up to the lines and run a cleaner through the system and then refill with power steering fluid.

I told them the manual calls for ATF but they didn't give a F....said power steering fluid is fine and that the new rack we just installed came from the factory with PS fluid anyway.

Should I not care and just let them do it or do it myself and us ATF like everyone else is doing.

Factors for doing it on my own....Gravel driveway, getting cold, im lazy.
The cap expressly says to use ATF. I had a new rack and tie rod ends installed and the mechanic used general power steering fluid. After a couple days of driving it, the steering got hard as a rock at the 10 and 2 positions. I flushed it a few times with Valvolene ATF and I haven’t had any steering feeling issues in a couple years since. Take that anecdote for what it’s worth.
 
I'm going to get my snow tires put on soon and figured I'd have Toyota do a PS flush while I'm there. The price isn too bad .

So they claim they hook up to the lines and run a cleaner through the system and then refill with power steering fluid.

I told them the manual calls for ATF but they didn't give a F....said power steering fluid is fine and that the new rack we just installed came from the factory with PS fluid anyway.

Should I not care and just let them do it or do it myself and us ATF like everyone else is doing.

Factors for doing it on my own....Gravel driveway, getting cold, im lazy.
I get the cold factor being that I'm garageless and it is getting cold here too but just do it yourself on a moderately warm day, doesn't take long and there shouldn't be any crawling around on the gravel involved.
 
I get the cold factor being that I'm garageless and it is getting cold here too but just do it yourself on a moderately warm day, doesn't take long and there shouldn't be any crawling around on the gravel involved.
True that , I'll stick with ATF.
 
I am base lining my new rig and have power steering fluid in the system. The car fax says the system was flushed by Toyota 2 times before. They did not use ATF. There is absolutely no reason the dealer should be putting in something other than what is recommended by their own manufacturer Service manuals. Isn't their adherence to specs the Number 1 reason people take their junk to the dealer?

They sure have no problem lecturing customers that their $35 a gallon "Toyota Red Antifreeze" is the only thing that will keep your car from blowing up. Should make everyone wonder about dealer's advice.
 
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Shout out to @2001LC for the excellent write-up.

This maintenance is very easy to perform and if your truck has the same mileage as mine getting those leaking low pressure hoses replaced will really clean up the engine compartment.
Both of my LX470s have 200,000+ miles and neither had clogged PS tank screens so the cleanup was super easy. I did take the time to clean them out as described in the tutorial however neither of my trucks required any overnight soaking or scrubbing of the screen.

Also, my local AutoZone had the Mobil1 ATF on clearance! $6.00 per quart.
 
Shout out to @2001LC for the excellent write-up.

This maintenance is very easy to perform and if your truck has the same mileage as mine getting those leaking low pressure hoses replaced will really clean up the engine compartment.
Both of my LX470s have 200,000+ miles and neither had clogged PS tank screens so the cleanup was super easy. I did take the time to clean them out as described in the tutorial however neither of my trucks required any overnight soaking or scrubbing of the screen.

Also, my local AutoZone had the Mobil1 ATF on clearance! $6.00 per quart.
That's awesome! Great deal! I might have to go check my Autozone to see if any is on sale. I don't need it yet, but I will.
 
If you keep the fluid clean, the P/S system lasts a life time!
 
Having just read through this, I noticed some 3/8 ID hose is claiming not to fit well. Can anyone provide a brand that does work well? Maybe @2001LC
 
For non OEM 3/8" transmission hose is best I've found, so far! It's just a bit tight, which is better than loose.
 
For non OEM 3/8" transmission hose is best I've found, so far! It's just a bit tight, which is better than loose.
Paul, do you recall what brand of hose you have been buying?
 
Paul, do you recall what brand of hose you have been buying?
For 03-07, Toyota OEM for reservoir return line (different set-up than 98-02).

For the 98-02 I've had several. The best was from Advanced Auto in 2018-19. It's OD fit the OEM clamps perfect.


3-8th coolant hose. Use as return..JPG
 
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Fabbed up a couple of brackets for a 20,000 btu power steering fluid cooler… I completed this power steering cooler installation just before thanksgiving.

On this forum, I have read many a story about the need to replace power steering racks and power steering pumps… and Toyota did begin providing a cooler for power steering fluid beginning in 2003… Although it was a cheap heat sink paper clip type.

The root cause of power steering rack and pump failure is heat… Super heated fluid swells spinning shafts, and causes premature failure of seals that create an expensive end result. I figured if I could cool the fluid, these parts should last much longer if not indefinitely… Especially if you use full synthetic high quality fluids.

I found that after driving for as little as five minutes, the power steering cooler becomes quite warm/ borderline hot. I also found that the hotline into the cooler is MUCH warmer than the cold line out of the cooler. So despite the diminutive size of the cooler that I installed, it is quite efficient at shedding the unwanted heat that could potentially cause the failure of very expensive parts.

Used wet location high voltage splicing sleeves from Lowe’s to snake the hoses past the radiator foam to achieve the most direct routing of the cooler lines, and shield the lines from possible abrasion. Looks and fits more OEM than routing the cooler lines around the bulkhead behind the headlight…
In summary, that little cooler is doing its job, and I am quite happy with the installation. The fluid in the reservoir is much cooler now than it was prior to the cooler installed.

I was striving for an OEM appearance… all metric bolts and M8 riv-nuts… OEM constant tension hose clamps.

CBE4535A-A57C-43CA-B608-FE18F3B50A22.jpeg

96AE8385-2757-4C4B-83AF-EAB481C37EEB.jpeg

5A836D65-EC5C-4FCE-B3F4-B80D4242E2FF.jpeg


1674707743501.jpeg
 
Fabbed up a couple of brackets for a 20,000 btu power steering fluid cooler… I completed this power steering cooler installation just before thanksgiving.

On this forum, I have read many a story about the need to replace power steering racks and power steering pumps… and Toyota did begin providing a cooler for power steering fluid beginning in 2003… Although it was a cheap heat sink paper clip type.

The root cause of power steering rack and pump failure is heat… Super heated fluid swells spinning shafts, and causes premature failure of seals that create an expensive end result. I figured if I could cool the fluid, these parts should last much longer if not indefinitely… Especially if you use full synthetic high quality fluids.

I found that after driving for as little as five minutes, the power steering cooler becomes quite warm/ borderline hot. I also found that the hotline into the cooler is MUCH warmer than the cold line out of the cooler. So despite the diminutive size of the cooler that I installed, it is quite efficient at shedding the unwanted heat that could potentially cause the failure of very expensive parts.

Used wet location high voltage splicing sleeves from Lowe’s to snake the hoses past the radiator foam to achieve the most direct routing of the cooler lines, and shield the lines from possible abrasion. Looks and fits more OEM than routing the cooler lines around the bulkhead behind the headlight…
In summary, that little cooler is doing its job, and I am quite happy with the installation. The fluid in the reservoir is much cooler now than it was prior to the cooler installed.

I was striving for an OEM appearance… all metric bolts and M8 riv-nuts… OEM constant tension hose clamps.

CBE4535A-A57C-43CA-B608-FE18F3B50A22.jpeg

96AE8385-2757-4C4B-83AF-EAB481C37EEB.jpeg

5A836D65-EC5C-4FCE-B3F4-B80D4242E2FF.jpeg


View attachment 3229926
I was thinking of adding wire loom over the front lines like you did since I have a bunch left over, but wasn't sure of moisture getting trapped and damaging the hard lines lines. How long have you had the loom on?
 
I was thinking of adding wire loom over the front lines like you did since I have a bunch left over, but wasn't sure of moisture getting trapped and damaging the hard lines lines. How long have you had the loom on?
The split loom is for impact protection from stray road debris and/or errant tools handling. I thoroughly sprayed each hard line with Boeshield T-9 to prevent corrosion and for wax surface protection prior to installing the NYLON split loom.

I installed the split loom over all of the AC lines as well for the same reason. Would be a shame to damage a hard formed aluminum AC line by dropping a wrench or ratchet while working on the car. I understand that 2004 and newer models had split loom factory installed in certain frontal locations on the AC lines.

I went ahead and did all of it… as impact protection.

Under hood temperatures get quite high. Strongly recommend UV rated and flame retardant 6/6 NYLON split loom for any under hood areas. It is the same material used by the factory for all wiring harnesses…
NYLON costs more, but it’ll last a lifetime… the cheap stuff from Home Depot will dry out, get brittle and disintegrate within a couple of years… and the cheap split loom can melt and catch fire!!!!

The same advice for Ty-raps or zip ties… use 6/6 NYLON with stainless lock tabs if you want them to last. They cost more, but you’ll only have to install them one time.
 
Fabbed up a couple of brackets for a 20,000 btu power steering fluid cooler… I completed this power steering cooler installation just before thanksgiving.

On this forum, I have read many a story about the need to replace power steering racks and power steering pumps… and Toyota did begin providing a cooler for power steering fluid beginning in 2003… Although it was a cheap heat sink paper clip type.

The root cause of power steering rack and pump failure is heat… Super heated fluid swells spinning shafts, and causes premature failure of seals that create an expensive end result. I figured if I could cool the fluid, these parts should last much longer if not indefinitely… Especially if you use full synthetic high quality fluids.

I found that after driving for as little as five minutes, the power steering cooler becomes quite warm/ borderline hot. I also found that the hotline into the cooler is MUCH warmer than the cold line out of the cooler. So despite the diminutive size of the cooler that I installed, it is quite efficient at shedding the unwanted heat that could potentially cause the failure of very expensive parts.

Used wet location high voltage splicing sleeves from Lowe’s to snake the hoses past the radiator foam to achieve the most direct routing of the cooler lines, and shield the lines from possible abrasion. Looks and fits more OEM than routing the cooler lines around the bulkhead behind the headlight…
In summary, that little cooler is doing its job, and I am quite happy with the installation. The fluid in the reservoir is much cooler now than it was prior to the cooler installed.

I was striving for an OEM appearance… all metric bolts and M8 riv-nuts… OEM constant tension hose clamps.

CBE4535A-A57C-43CA-B608-FE18F3B50A22.jpeg

96AE8385-2757-4C4B-83AF-EAB481C37EEB.jpeg

5A836D65-EC5C-4FCE-B3F4-B80D4242E2FF.jpeg


View attachment 3229926
I think this is a very good enhancement. I somehow think that my fluid overheated once and melted something in the original rack. That caused a fluid flow obstruction that continued to cause premature pump failure. A combination of events resulted in the reservoir melting.
 
Would this work for PS? 99 LC thanks
image.jpg
 
Would this work for PS? 99 LC thanks View attachment 3237112
Yes… Mr. T‘s manual and the cap on the power steering reservoir both describe DEX III as the proper fluid…

If you want a full synthetic ATF that is compatible with over 85% of all cars, use this…

I‘ve been using full synthetic Valvoline multi vehicle ATF for at least 15 years on Honda, Toyota, Lexus, Ford, GM and Mopar vehicles…
It is even certified for some CVT transmissions.

Very good stuff… and readily available.

9612D442-2B8E-4D11-88E5-3041BBDED86A.jpeg
 
Dexron 3 or better is good.
 

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