shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Don't know why I didn't think of that. They have a clamp on them and it looks easy enough to slide it off. I will give that a look.
Steering Flush & Cleaning (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
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A great trick that I learned a long time ago… to make your hoses remain supple and last a long time;
Degrease the hoses and dry… then massage in Shin Etsu silicone grease… a little goes a long way. Leave on overnight ( engine heat or hot days actually accelerate the rejuvenation) and then wipe off with a clean soft rag.
Shin Etsu penetrates and chemically rejuvenates all rubber products. It actually restores hard hoses to supple condition. And it’s great for preserving tired and dried out door and window weatherstripping.
Try it and be amazed
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Ha! I have a tube of that stuff when I was doing all the weatherstripping/seals on my 88 4Runner. Didn't even think to use it on the hoses. Oh well, they are in the garbage now!A great trick that I learned a long time ago… to make your hoses remain supple and last a long time;
Degrease the hoses and dry… then massage in Shin Etsu silicone grease… a little goes a long way. Leave on overnight ( engine heat or hot days actually accelerate the rejuvenation) and then wipe off with a clean soft rag.
Shin Etsu penetrates and chemically rejuvenates all rubber products. It actually restores hard hoses to supple condition. And it’s great for preserving tired and dried out door and window weatherstripping.
Try it and be amazed
- Thread starter
- #264
To be clear: Double clamp is only for temp fix with old hose. Permanent fix, is new hose and one clamp. I use OEM clamp with OEM hose Or when aftermarket 3/8" hose OD same as OEM hose. Otherwise I use fuel line clamp on some 3/8" AT cooler hose, that have smaller OD..
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Yeah, it was intended to be a temporary fix, but it worked so well I just forgot about it. But that's why I replaced the hose/reservoir. But the temp fix held fine for over 1 1/2 years.
“Nothing more permanent than a temporary solution”
2nd time doing this since I own my cruiser.
Last time was about 3 years and 20k miles ago, removed and cleaned the reservoir again, not much gunk. Used same method again, as @2001LC 1st post, easy, quick and clean. White Gas from Coleman to clean, Some AT-205 mixed into Mobil1 ATF to fill.
This time I also replaced a torn boot on the steering rack, that was another story, it was a PITA!
Didn’t have the 2xmm wrench (no idea what size) to release the locking nut on the tie rod, so had to use some tape, and every lube I found in the house to get the small hole pass through it, the OEM clamp is pretty much impossible to install, ended up using a metal tie from an exhaust project, the tie rod release tool didn’t wanna work, so I ended up using my good friend 2lbs brass mallet, a whole afternoon dealing with that one, still got the 2nd one to do
Last time was about 3 years and 20k miles ago, removed and cleaned the reservoir again, not much gunk. Used same method again, as @2001LC 1st post, easy, quick and clean. White Gas from Coleman to clean, Some AT-205 mixed into Mobil1 ATF to fill.
This time I also replaced a torn boot on the steering rack, that was another story, it was a PITA!
Didn’t have the 2xmm wrench (no idea what size) to release the locking nut on the tie rod, so had to use some tape, and every lube I found in the house to get the small hole pass through it, the OEM clamp is pretty much impossible to install, ended up using a metal tie from an exhaust project, the tie rod release tool didn’t wanna work, so I ended up using my good friend 2lbs brass mallet, a whole afternoon dealing with that one, still got the 2nd one to do
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- Thread starter
- #268
TRE lock nut often need some penetrating oil soaking time. I often end up use two 18 crescent wrenches. I also have a 24" pipe wrench for really stuck one.2nd time doing this since I own my cruiser.
View attachment 3410935
Last time was about 3 years and 20k miles ago, removed and cleaned the reservoir again, not much gunk. Used same method again, as @2001LC 1st post, easy, quick and clean. White Gas from Coleman to clean, Some AT-205 mixed into Mobil1 ATF to fill.
This time I also replaced a torn boot on the steering rack, that was another story, it was a PITA!
Didn’t have the 2xmm wrench (no idea what size) to release the locking nut on the tie rod, so had to use some tape, and every lube I found in the house to get the small hole pass through it, the OEM clamp is pretty much impossible to install, ended up using a metal tie from an exhaust project, the tie rod release tool didn’t wanna work, so I ended up using my good friend 2lbs brass mallet, a whole afternoon dealing with that one, still got the 2nd one to do
The OEM clamps are actually easy, once you understand how they work.
Thanks for the video!!
I guess I need heftier pliers cause I couldn’t squeeze the clamp enough to catch with the ones I got.. I’ll give it another try when I tackle the driver’s side boot.
While you’re here, let me ask you, do you replace TRE boots if needed? My boot has a small tear, but the joint is still perfect, no clunks when moved in any axis. I know there’s OEM BJ boots but no TREs. If so, any source where to get them? If aftermarket, Do they come in different sizes? I think the shaft on ours is 20mm?
Thanks for the info.
- Thread starter
- #270
I did use long handle needle nose pliers. A set (curved & straight) for the tool boxes is a good investment, they get used a lot!
Yes! A hole in boot, allows contaminants in. Which may reduce life of Inner TRE ball and rack seal.
Tip: Count threads to lock nut. Add penetration oil (soak as long as you can), use two very large wrenches holding outer TRE as you break free the lock nut. While boot off make sure inner TRE is tight and staked.
FWIW, on both the 100 and 200 I use a little MightyVac to remove all the fluid from the reservoir with each oil change. Takes about 1/3 of a qt of ATF to refill on a system that contains only about a quart in total. Not a complete flush, but at 5k intervals it does a good job of keeping it fresh. I suppose there is some risk of suspended wear particles never getting completely expunged from the system, but you'll be way ahead of the fleet average. For me, the color stays bright and no adverse symptoms.
If you have a neglected system and don't want to remove the hose and drain to a bucket, you could also suck it out, fill with new, run the truck briefly, and repeat until you had new-looking fluid circulating. My guess is this would take maybe 3 qts to get it all cleaned up.
Super easy to incorporate this PM as part of your OCI.
If you have a neglected system and don't want to remove the hose and drain to a bucket, you could also suck it out, fill with new, run the truck briefly, and repeat until you had new-looking fluid circulating. My guess is this would take maybe 3 qts to get it all cleaned up.
Super easy to incorporate this PM as part of your OCI.
- Thread starter
- #273
I should re-write the OP. I've streamline the processes a bit. Once the reservoir cleaned. Subsequent full 1 qt. flushes is a snap. Takes only 15 minutes.
But even a drain and fill, is so helpful.
But even a drain and fill, is so helpful.
Can you link the 29" x 3/8"ID transmission cooler line from Advance Auto? Great write up as always. Thanks for all the helpful posts !
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
They sell it by the foot.
- Thread starter
- #276
I just walk in and buy. They've have only one, 3/8" transmission cooler hose. So do many other parts suppliers. They sell by the foot or in rolls of25, 50', 100', etc.
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If you do get around to revising it, let us know! I'm all for streamlining the process
Might be interesting…
2001 lx. Original everything. Kept Cali/nev dry. Diagnosing front end noise when turning. Starting with ps. Removed and emptied reservoir. Fluid occasionally replaced. Maybe never flushed. Not often enough. Don’t remember fluid type.
Photos show screen disintegrating.
Edit: wasn't meant as reply to Forger. Just extending this thread.
Plan is to clean reservoir, flush. Screen is toast.
Yes. I will look into that. Screen seems like a weak point for these reservoir. No body was in there mucking around with it and it just fell apart by itself. I removed as much screen material as possible to keep it out of the pump. The experience will change my maintenance routine.
Introduced some air during flush. Resulting PS noise gone after 10 minutes of test driving.
I think my front end noise is going to end up being suspension or axle. Some 12 o'clock 6 o'clock wiggle was noticed when I had the tires up off the ground.
