Steering Flush & Cleaning (4 Viewers)

[GVegasG]

I'd not use. Since it's "H" or "Mercon." Probably be okay, but why chance it.

Agreed. I will buy a gallon of good stuff as have more than one car to flush.
Or I can use this just to flush and then add good stuff.
It might leak again anyway after flush.
I could not believe how dirty the reservoir was/is. Soaked one day on simple green and another day in bbq charcoal fluid but walls are still dirty. Screens look good though.
Thanks for the responses.

 

[GVegasG]

Update: reservoir cleaned really well using the Totally Awesome degreaser - took about 15 min. Simple green and charcoal fuel did not do that good.
Put it back and started following instruction to flush. However air bubbles were not going away. Almost felt like it is sucking air from somewhere as sometimes fluid level would go up.
After turning left and right while wheels are off ground and car being off for about 15 min decides to turn the car on. Level went down to middle and it was getting foamy. I am guessing due to air.
Turned it off and tried to get the air out again. Turned it back after 10 tries and same thing. Pump started making a noise as well and then noticed more leak now from driver side boot which was torn.
I think AT-205 would not help. Best to get a new rack.
Should I change the pump as well?
Hoses look good.
Forgot to note that I used Valvoline synthetic ATF as in the pic shown couple posts up.

 

[Unrulykid]

Update: reservoir cleaned really well using the Totally Awesome degreaser - took about 15 min. Simple green and charcoal fuel did not do that good.
Put it back and started following instruction to flush. However air bubbles were not going away. Almost felt like it is sucking air from somewhere as sometimes fluid level would go up.
After turning left and right while wheels are off ground and car being off for about 15 min decides to turn the car on. Level went down to middle and it was getting foamy. I am guessing due to air.
Turned it off and tried to get the air out again. Turned it back after 10 tries and same thing. Pump started making a noise as well and then noticed more leak now from driver side boot which was torn.
I think AT-205 would not help. Best to get a new rack.
Should I change the pump as well?
Hoses look good.
Forgot to note that I used Valvoline synthetic ATF as in the pic shown couple posts up.

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If you are getting a leak from the driver side steering rack boot, which is torn, I would replace the rack, or order the service kit for the steering rack and rebuild it. The pump may still be good. Start with the known problems first.

 

[GVegasG]

Is this the right part number 9046721010 of reservoir suction hose (larger hose) clamps? I keep getting contradicting information between partsouq and dealer sites. Thanks

 

[Unrulykid]

Is this the right part number 9046721010 of reservoir suction hose (larger hose) clamps? I keep getting contradicting information between partsouq and dealer sites. Thanks

‘Looks like the correct part number

 

[kwon-offroad]

Thanks @2001LC et al, this was made a ton easier than I thought after your directions. 30minutes max excluding the beer and bathroom break.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Is this broken clip supposed to hold the PS line? The 3/8” hose is obviously not contoured like the factory hose and I’d like to secure it away from the belt if possible.

 

[2001LC]

You can use 1 or 2 of those clip. I also like routing new LP return hose between PS high pressure line and inner fender. I take old foam sleeve off old hose, clean and use on new 3/8" ATF cooler hose. Side sleeve to a point it cushion/protects hose from inter fender well rub.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Okay, so I just replaced the 3/8 line and reservoir. To help minimize the mess I basically flushed a quart of M1 ATF through the reservoir and then just kept doing it until the system was drained. Now I have it filled back up and i've turned it lock to lock so many times and still seeing significant bubbles. I tried turning it pretty fast at first to try and get the bigger bubbles too. When it's been emptied, should I just expect to have to turn it a ton of times? This is all engine off, front wheels off the ground.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Also, stupid question, but does it matter if the cap is on or off during bleeing? I have tried it both ways and it doesn't seem to make a difference.

 

[awesomeissquid]

You can use 1 or 2 of those clip. I also like routing new LP return hose between PS high pressure line and inner fender. I take old foam sleeve off old hose, clean and use on new 3/8" ATF cooler hose. Side sleeve to a point it cushion/protects hose from inter fender well rub.

Have any pictures of this? Trying to visualize but can’t quiet get it.

 

[Unrulykid]

Okay, so I just replaced the 3/8 line and reservoir. To help minimize the mess I basically flushed a quart of M1 ATF through the reservoir and then just kept doing it until the system was drained. Now I have it filled back up and i've turned it lock to lock so many times and still seeing significant bubbles. I tried turning it pretty fast at first to try and get the bigger bubbles too. When it's been emptied, should I just expect to have to turn it a ton of times? This is all engine off, front wheels off the ground.

Post #1 is a very comprehensive description of a functional fluid change procedure…

when I performed this fluid change, I had too had lots of micro bubbles remaining suspended in the freshly changed new fluid…

I left it overnight, and the next day found all of the bubbles in the Reservoir had completely dissipated.

I started the engine, and had about 7 seconds of the power steering pump intermittently whining… And then all pump noise went away completely… went on a short drive turning lock to lock many times, and pump is nice and quiet now.

Perhaps you should let it rest overnight… Hopefully you will get the same result that I had.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Post #1 is a very comprehensive description of a functional fluid change procedure…

when I performed this fluid change, I had too had lots of micro bubbles remaining suspended in the freshly changed new fluid…

I left it overnight, and the next day found all of the bubbles in the Reservoir had completely dissipated.

I started the engine, and had about 7 seconds of the power steering pump intermittently whining… And then all pump noise went away completely… went on a short drive turning lock to lock many times, and pump is nice and quiet now.

Perhaps you should let it rest overnight… Hopefully you will get the same result that I had.

Yeah I tossed in the towel for the night. Main difference for me is that I drained the whole system. So I’m still getting lots of bigger bubbles still.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Yeah I tossed in the towel for the night. Main difference for me is that I drained the whole system. So I’m still getting lots of bigger bubbles still.

I’m also concerned that I pulled almost 2 quarts from the system but after bleeding it forever I’ve only put about 8/10 of a quart in it. That’s a lot of bubbles.

 

[Unrulykid]

I’m also concerned that I pulled almost 2 quarts from the system but after bleeding it forever I’ve only put about 8/10 of a quart in it. That’s a lot of bubbles.

Ahhhh…. OK then….

you might want to try this;

Front wheels off the ground, truck on jackstands,

Fill the power steering fluid reservoir with fresh fluid and installed cap.

Manually turn the steering wheel completely to one side lock and hold for three seconds.

Check the power steering fluid reservoir to see if the fluid level has gone down. If so, refill.

Then manually turn the steering wheel completely to the other side, lock and hold for three seconds.

Check the power steering fluid reservoir to see if the fluid level has gone down.

Repeat this procedure until you have pushed new fluid through the steering rack to displace any air that may be captured within that system.

Once you are satisfied that all air has been pushed out of the system and you have more than 8/10 of a quart of fluid in the system, start the vehicle, and turn lock to lock… refer to post number one and find the appropriate step in the sequence.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Ahhhh…. OK then….

you might want to try this;

Front wheels off the ground, truck on jackstands,

Fill the power steering fluid reservoir with fresh fluid and installed cap.

Manually turn the steering wheel completely to one side lock and hold for three seconds.

Check the power steering fluid reservoir to see if the fluid level has gone down. If so, refill.

Then manually turn the steering wheel completely to the other side, lock and hold for three seconds.

Check the power steering fluid reservoir to see if the fluid level has gone down.

Repeat this procedure until you have pushed new fluid through the steering rack to displace any air that may be captured within that system.

Once you are satisfied that all air has been pushed out of the system and you have more than 8/10 of a quart of fluid in the system, start the vehicle, and turn lock to lock… refer to post number one and find the appropriate step in the sequence.

The thing is I’ve turned lock to lock probably 100 times. Slow. Fast. Doesn’t seem to matter. Then level in the reservoir is not dropping and I’m still seeing large bubbles this morning after letting it sit.

Also I left if turned to the right overnight and woke up to this…. Ugh. The stuff on the ground is definitely old fluid, not the fresh stuff I just put in. Boots have been “damp” on the bottom since I’ve owned it but never saw any drips or anything.

 

[2001LC]

Okay, so I just replaced the 3/8 line and reservoir. To help minimize the mess I basically flushed a quart of M1 ATF through the reservoir and then just kept doing it until the system was drained. Now I have it filled back up and i've turned it lock to lock so many times and still seeing significant bubbles. I tried turning it pretty fast at first to try and get the bigger bubbles too. When it's been emptied, should I just expect to have to turn it a ton of times? This is all engine off, front wheels off the ground.

Trick here is to sometimes turn steering fast at first, as you did. But, hold at full lock (even more so during slow turns phase). You'll see level drops as you hold at lock. It is not necessary to use more than 1qt, after flushing all fluid. Just attach all hoses/lines, top and turn the steering wheel tires off the ground. keep level above bottom of reservoir.

Also, stupid question, but does it matter if the cap is on or off during bleeing? I have tried it both ways and it doesn't seem to make a difference.

It does seem to help cap on, but not a must do. The stick on cap fit in a hole. I've not read or heard why it designed that way. But I suspect it has effect flow & pressure in reservoir.

Have any pictures of this? Trying to visualize but can’t quiet get it.

I started using this route between fender & HP (high pressure line coming off vane pump) for LP (low pressure) PS return line (hose) on 98-02. Because bracket/clips often missing or busted. Which would often result in belt rubbing/cutting LP return hose on vane pump pulley and or drive belt.

I reuse foam sleeve that is found on old OEM return line, to protect hose from fender rub.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Well I put it back on the ground, fired it up and turned the wheel a couple times and as expected it was noisy. I took it for a little drive in my neighborhood and the noise is mostly gone. I also checked the reservoir and the frothy bubbles that I saw when I first started it up are gone. Topped it up to the COLD MAX line. I do still hear a little groan on occasion when I am turning at near lock. I'm hoping it keeps improving. It was honestly way less noisy than I thought it would be though so that's good? I will monitor the leaky boot, but it's all old fluid so I am hoping it's an old leak and some AT-205 will help?

 

[Unrulykid]

The thing is I’ve turned lock to lock probably 100 times. Slow. Fast. Doesn’t seem to matter. Then level in the reservoir is not dropping and I’m still seeing large bubbles this morning after letting it sit.

Also I left if turned to the right overnight and woke up to this…. Ugh. The stuff on the ground is definitely old fluid, not the fresh stuff I just put in. Boots have been “damp” on the bottom since I’ve owned it but never saw any drips or anything.

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Recommend you slide off those boots and have a look…

 

[shtbrwn86]

Also, wanted to chime in on Paul's recommendation to double clamp the return lines. That worked great and in hindsight I should have just left it. But I ordered a new reservoir and hose before I had tried his tip. My reservoir was actually really clean. No gunk on the screen or anything. I will say though that for anyone thinking of doing this, replacing that 3/8" hose on the return line was a B***H! Took way longer than it needed to. Just getting some pliers on the lower hose clamp was such a pain and when you get it off, you would think taking the hose off would be easy but when it's rock hard after 24 years then yeah, not gonna come off easy. I actually ended up cutting the hose since I was replacing it anyway.