Yes flush before you hook up a new reservoir. Putting the old one back on would be akin to doing an engine oil change without changing the filter.
Per tips: Follow the first post of this thread and you'll be golden.
Steering Flush & Cleaning (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
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Per tips: Follow the first post of this thread and you'll be golden.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
I also read that it can take a few flushes to get the fluid running clear. Maybe I do that while I wait for the reservoir to get here from Japan.
I've had some good luck with Seafoam products and I was wondering if a few OZ of their trans tune into my power steering system is worth a shot. I get worried about these products trying to bring back a heavily corroded and breaking up all the gunk an sending it into the system, but mine is well maintained. Fluid is fairly new and clean but the problem is I'm getting a loud honking noise on startup and possibly some moisture is in the system and freezing up.
How to use Trans Tune in power steering fluid systems - https://seafoamworks.com/knowledge-base/how-to-use-trans-tune-in-power-steering-fluid-systems/
How to use Trans Tune in power steering fluid systems - https://seafoamworks.com/knowledge-base/how-to-use-trans-tune-in-power-steering-fluid-systems/
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #204
You can just put the new reservoir on, only hooking up suction line to it. Plug return nipple, and fill res. Run return line to catch bottle. With wheels off the ground, engine off. Turn steering wheel lock to lock a minimum 3 times, holding at lock 3 seconds. 1 qt Mobil 1 ATF does the job.
Mine had the screen missing when I went to flush the fluid and clean the tank. Ordered a used tank on eBay for cheap to replace it. No idea who'd be removing them in multiple trucks, so I do assume they can disintegrate if people are making bad fluid choices.
I wonder if heat plays a factor in the screens failing to pass fluid? Then as the screens pass less fluid, the fluid gets hotter and the problem starts to snowball.
I don't have an answer.
The return line is the top of the 2 hoses in general?
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Yes. Lower hose is the suction line.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Has anyone covered how to replace the suction hose? I’m replacing my reservoir and both hoses. When i pull the suction hose off I am going to lose all the fluid in that hose which is fine. But it will also introduce air into the system right? Is that just inevitable and I just need to spend more time bleeding?
im about to go do mine today. 2 new hoses from the reservoir. You're gonna get air in the system no matter what if you take hoses off. It doesn't sound like bleeding the system is too difficult though so I wouldn't worry too much.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
I did get a little mini fluid suction hose to try and suck as much fluid out of the hoses as possible before I remove them. I hate making a mess!
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #214
Air in system, is no in problem:
Just do normal bleed as always, after topping reservoir. (front end on jack-stand, turn steering wheel slowly lock to lock (until stops) and hold at lock 3 seconds). If fluid not moving through reservoir, then turn steering wheel faster lock to lock a few times.
Then do same once on the ground, turning steering wheel slowly lock to lock and hold at lock 3 seconds. But this with engine running.
BTW: Do the same to remove fluid from system. That is: With front end on jack-stand, turn steering wheel slowly lock to lock. But with return line off and run it to a catch can.
Just do normal bleed as always, after topping reservoir. (front end on jack-stand, turn steering wheel slowly lock to lock (until stops) and hold at lock 3 seconds). If fluid not moving through reservoir, then turn steering wheel faster lock to lock a few times.
Then do same once on the ground, turning steering wheel slowly lock to lock and hold at lock 3 seconds. But this with engine running.
BTW: Do the same to remove fluid from system. That is: With front end on jack-stand, turn steering wheel slowly lock to lock. But with return line off and run it to a catch can.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
This is super helpful. Thank you!
I changed the hoses and cleaned the reservoir with an ultrasonic cleaner. Used some 5/8th and 3/8th hose to replace the 24 year old original stuff. Getting the old hoses off was a pain, I ended up cutting the line at the pump to get it off. Then putting the 3/8th line back on the metal line was super tight. I used a heat gun to warm it up and a little silicone lube to help. I sprayed out the reservoir with brake cleaner first and then put it in a water and simple green mix in the ultrasonic cleaner. I messed with that for about an hour while getting the hoses off and it came out pretty clean. Getting the tires off the ground was a pain in the ass though. But its all done and no more squealing! Thanks for all the info in this thread.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #217
Good job. I do much the same way as you.
Few of things. I do different.
- Ultrasonic cleaner. I use a Toyota coolant jug with top cut off. Add cleaning fluid and reservoir into it. Placing that, into water filled ultrasonic cleaner setting water level to top of basket.
- 98-02. I use 3/8" ID ATF cooler hose. I make sure to push rubber hose, on all the way to the stop of lower hard line (in your picture shows it about 2" short of stop). Some 3/8" hose OD is large enough for OEM clamp, which I prefer. Other 3/8" ID ATF cooler hose, have smaller OD. I use fuel line clamps, in those. They wrap hose 360 degree, without digging in to rubber.
- I prefer OEM suction hose and OEM clamps.
BTW: I've gone thought 2 China made Ultrasonic cleaner, in 6 months. A 6L & a 10L. They've the same look, with identical labels as yours. The heater control, are buggy and failing. My came from seller on Amazon.
that pic with the hose not all the way on was just when I was struggling to get it all the way down. I heated up the hose with the heat gun and now its all the way down and has a spring clamp on it from mcmastersons. I should have labeled that better. Anyone reading DON'T STOP until its all the way on the fitting and secured with a clamp of some kind. I've got to take the intake manifold off soon to repair a knock sensor wire, I'll take some completed pics and update my post.
The 3/8" hose is Gates fuel injector hose. The parts guy says it should hold up fine with ATF. Hopefully he's right!
I got my ultrasonic cleaner from amazon as well. Hopefully it holds up for a little while. I dont think I'll be using it too much.
Here's the completed look with the hoses fully attached and clamped. No leaks so far
I'm going to get my snow tires put on soon and figured I'd have Toyota do a PS flush while I'm there. The price isn too bad .
So they claim they hook up to the lines and run a cleaner through the system and then refill with power steering fluid.
I told them the manual calls for ATF but they didn't give a F....said power steering fluid is fine and that the new rack we just installed came from the factory with PS fluid anyway.
Should I not care and just let them do it or do it myself and us ATF like everyone else is doing.
Factors for doing it on my own....Gravel driveway, getting cold, im lazy.
So they claim they hook up to the lines and run a cleaner through the system and then refill with power steering fluid.
I told them the manual calls for ATF but they didn't give a F....said power steering fluid is fine and that the new rack we just installed came from the factory with PS fluid anyway.
Should I not care and just let them do it or do it myself and us ATF like everyone else is doing.
Factors for doing it on my own....Gravel driveway, getting cold, im lazy.
