Stainless Brake Lines - SLEE vs the others

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cool breeze said:
Sorry, extended I mean. If so part number?
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There may be other model Toyota lines that are longer than stock 100 series lines and will fit on 100s (sensu CDan’s and Wits End’s kits for 80s), but I am not aware of any. Aside from nukegoat and others who have done SAS, it seems rare for anyone to need extended lines on 100s, given there’s not much that can be done to demonstrably increase travel of the torsion bar front end. Consequently, not much of a market for extended lines on 100s, as @Somebodyelse5 noted.
 
All 4 SS hoses from hard line to the calipers are OEM length. The rear upper center and rear lower center on VSC models are the extended hoses on aftermarket SS options. Honestly you dont need much extra length- I ran stock hoses for 50k on a 2" lift and flexed the rear axle a fair bit- never had an issue.

OEM options: FWIW anyone interested in a hunting expedition might cross reference part numbers for vehicles equipped with AHC, its possible they have longer rear center dropdown lines. @2001LC recently measured these and I recall him telling me that they might be longer than non-ahc version. So if you're not committed to installing SS hoses, you may look into just replacing the center drop downs if you confirm the AHC type are longer.
 
Well I guess I bought one of their last kits before they recently restocked - 7/18/20. $20.48 shipping to AR via UPS Ground is pretty standard for something of that size. Have them sitting on my bench waiting for the time to install them.

Edit: if you’re questioning the shipping cost just remember UPS is strict on weight. These are stainless steel lines, so obviously they’re heavier than the OEM rubber lines and much more stout than you think. My shipping also included the spindle grease tool.
 
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JunkCrzr89 said:
There may be other model Toyota lines that are longer than stock 100 series lines and will fit on 100s (sensu CDan’s and Wits End’s kits for 80s), but I am not aware of any. Aside of nukegoat and others who have done SAS, it seems rare for anyone to need extended lines on 100s, given there’s not much that can be done to demonstrably increase travel of the torsion bar front end. Consequently, not much of a market for extended lines on 100s, as @Somebodyelse5 noted.
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JunkCrzr89 said:
There may be other model Toyota lines that are longer than stock 100 series lines and will fit on 100s (sensu CDan’s and Wits End’s kits for 80s), but I am not aware of any. Aside from nukegoat and others who have done SAS, it seems rare for anyone to need extended lines on 100s, given there’s not much that can be done to demonstrably increase travel of the torsion bar front end. Consequently, not much of a market for extended lines on 100s, as @Somebodyelse5 noted.
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Yup, we've maxed the front droop. unless someone is extending axles AND extending control arms... you won't need extended lines up front.

There are a few folks running the compound rear springs and icon shocks that are ~1" longer (Idk the part number, but the ones in the slinky kit), that get you a little bit more droop (i still don't think extended lines will be needed, but I haven't had my hands on them to tell). But for the same old lift nearly everyone else is running, you don't need extended rear lines.
 
Somebodyelse5 said:
But for the same old lift nearly everyone else is running, you don't need extended rear lines.
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Doing things I don’t need to do is my specialty
 
$19.21 to TX.

I'm chasing a 99 LX "feel" issue, more than an extended length issue. I'm trying the "shotgun" approach to the 99 LX pedal, that feels nothing like our 00 LC, or 06 LX. Have a MC rebuild kit, Slee brake lines, and plan on a front brake job, to try and address the issue. The brakes work fine, they just feel like s*** compared to the others.
 
jLB said:
I'm trying the "shotgun" approach to the 99 LX pedal, that feels nothing like our 00 LC, or 06 LX. Have a MC rebuild kit, Slee brake lines, and plan on a front brake job, to try and address the issue.
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1598483857519.gif
 
JunkCrzr89 said:
View attachment 2417179
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Well, we’ve already done the rear brakes, inspected the front brakes, inspected the rest of the braking system, bled, re-bled, re-re-bled and replaced the fluid...

It may just be the difference between the VSC/EBD models, and the plain old ABS only models, but we’ve reached the point of “flinging poo”while holding our breath.
 
My opinion is about as valuable as gum on the ground, but I cannot recommend this kit. I bought the 98-99 non-VSC kit. Happy to sell it to someone since Slee won't take it back, but for the reasons below, I'm not installing it on my vehicle.

First, one of the fittings uses an 18mm head. I just don't need to carry another wrench. Why can't it match all the other bolt/nut sizes on the vehicle?
Second, the clips that retain the 18mm headed fitting into the back of the hub on the tab are very tough to remove, like 10x times harder to remove than the OEM clip. Now imagine if any of it become rusty..you'll just have to cut it off.
Third, the copper gaskets that they provide get stuck on the bolt and cannot be removed without damaging them and possibly the bolt. It's either the fitting they use or the gasket, or both, but it's not right and it's not as serviceable as Toyota-designed parts.
Fourth, the banjo fitting elbow does not route through the notch provided by Toyota on the caliper. I see two issues with this, with one being that Slee's routing lets the line hang out more with a higher risk of catching on something and being damaged and the other is that it allows the fitting to creep while tightening it.
 
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clayinho said:
My opinion is about and valuable as gum on the ground, but I cannot recommend this kit. I bought the 98-99 non-VSC kit. Happy to sell it to someone since Slee won't take it back, but for the reasons below, I'm not installing it on my vehicle.

First, one of the fittings uses an 18mm head. For a company that "has their stuff dialed in", I just don't want to carry another wrench.
Second, the clips that retain the 18mm headed fitting into the back of the hub on the tab are very tough to remove, like 10x times harder to remove than the OEM clip. Now imagine if any of it become rusty..you'll just have to cut it off.
Third, the copper gaskets that they provide get stuck on the bolt and cannot be removed without damaging them and possibly the bolt. It's either the fitting they use or the gasket, or both, but it's not right and it's not as serviceable as Toyota-designed parts.
Fourth, the banjo fitting elbow does not route through the notch provided by Toyota on the caliper. I see two issues with this, with one being that Slee's routing lets the line hang out more with a higher risk of catching on something and being damaged and the other is that it allows the fitting to creep while tightening it.
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Hey @JunkCrzr89 buy these and throw in an extra $3 18mm socket

I used this exact kit and have no issues....

  • Those clips are harder to remove, but if you are clever with pliers it's no big deal.
  • The kit came with plenty of crush washers, i had no issues with fitting any of them. How'd you get it stuck on the bolt?
  • The banjo not grabbing the caliper notch is not a big deal... you can get it torqued without it spinning. And what could it possibly get caught on?
If you worry about all possible situations, regardless of how miniscule the possibility (nothing is going to grab that brake line), it's odd to be upset about carrying an extra socket...
 
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I dont remember needing an 18mm wrench when I installed the Slee braided lines. Remind me which fitting is larger than all the others?

FYI The copper sealing washers are single use, and so are the toyota sealing washers.
 
I bought the Slee kit for my 99 model. It looks ok to me. I just haven't installed it yet. I will use it when I get into a brake system service. I have purchased two different SS line kits for my Tacoma that I decided not to use because of quality issues I saw other owners experience after purchase. I am encouraged about these new lines.
 
abuck99 said:
I dont remember needing an 18mm wrench when I installed the Slee braided lines. Remind me which fitting is larger than all the others?

FYI The copper sealing washers are single use, and so are the toyota sealing washers.
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The 18mm is on every end that interacts with a Toyota hard line.

And yes, the copper gaskets are single use. The issue with the copper gaskets is that should you ever remove the banjo fitting, the gasket against the bolt head will be deformed onto it and is far more challenging to remove.. My guess is it from the shape of the banjo fitting itself. When you removed the Toyota line, both gaskets always come off easy.


I get it, these things are minor. However, I expect super high quality and Toyota or better quality when dealing with Slee and that's just not the case here.

I also get that most of you all will fight to the death for some of the beloved vendors here and won't acknowledge that there could ever possibly be an issue. These are just my observations that these don't meet or exceed OE quality.


Gum on the sidewalk.
 
Somebodyelse5 said:
Hey @JunkCrzr89 buy these and throw in an extra $3 18mm socket
I used this exact kit and have no issues....
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Again, a 18mm socket isn't the right tool. I am also not stating that I had issues installing. They went of "fine". After installing one side, I summed up needing an 18mm wrench, the line isn't routed where OEM goes, and the retaining clip needed more than pliers to install, and decided this wasn't as good of a kit as I was hoping for and for the exact same money I can get Toyota flexible lines.

Somebodyelse5 said:
  • Those clips are harder to remove, but if you are clever with pliers it's no big deal.
Click to expand...


  • Being clever would not have helped the situation with the clip on my removal. It was unjustifiably tight in my case. A slide hammer with vice grip attachment would have helped.

    Have you tried to remove one of your clips yet?
 
clayinho said:
Again, a 18mm socket isn't the right tool. I am also not stating that I had issues installing. They went of "fine". After installing one side, I summed up needing an 18mm wrench, the line isn't routed where OEM goes, and the retaining clip needed more than pliers to install, and decided this wasn't as good of a kit as I was hoping for and for the exact same money I can get Toyota flexible lines.



  • Being clever would not have helped the situation with the clip on my removal. It was unjustifiably tight in my case. A slide hammer with vice grip attachment would have helped.

    Have you tried to remove one of your clips yet?
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For the clips, if you put the upper curved jaw of your channel locks on the edge of the bracket itself, and the lower jaw on the bent edge of the clip, you can roll the pliers in the direction of the bracket which will create enough leverage to easily pull the clip out. It's hard to explain but easy to do, especially with a little PB blaster or WD40 on it. The clips are supposed to be very snug, but maybe yours were much more snug for some reason.

As for the 18mm, if we're talking about the same one (red arrows), I just used the same pair of channel locks to hold it in place while the 10mm flare nut wrench did all the work. You don't want it to twist since the line will turn with it. You want to hold it in place and tighten the nut on the hard line. You also don't want it overly tight, just tight enough not to leak.

View attachment 2583141
 
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