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Is there a good terminal kit for use with toyota plugs? Trying to track down some gremlins in my wiring harness and figured getting a dedicated set of leads is probably the right way to go about this.
 
Is there a good terminal kit for use with toyota plugs? Trying to track down some gremlins in my wiring harness and figured getting a dedicated set of leads is probably the right way to go about this.
Not a kit that I know of, but the leads and connectors are available separately. If you have access to the FSM there is extensive documentation on repairing harnesses.

Edit: @prwillard2 somewhat related, I dealt with this in the past.

 
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I’m a little confused on the interval for diffs and t-case.

The spreadsheet I’ve seen on here in the service manual thread has it as inspected I think every 15-20 iirc but Im still not sure what that means for when to replace.

New to me 200 at 60k miles, no history of off road or towing that I know of but want to be on time if it’s due up.
 
I’m a little confused on the interval for diffs and t-case.

The spreadsheet I’ve seen on here in the service manual thread has it as inspected I think every 15-20 iirc but Im still not sure what that means for when to replace.

New to me 200 at 60k miles, no history of off road or towing that I know of but want to be on time if it’s due up.
On the Toyota Owners web site, you can enter your VIN and get PDFs of the owners manual and maintenance info for your vehicle. That will have OEM info.

 
I’m a little confused on the interval for diffs and t-case.

The spreadsheet I’ve seen on here in the service manual thread has it as inspected I think every 15-20 iirc but Im still not sure what that means for when to replace.

New to me 200 at 60k miles, no history of off road or towing that I know of but want to be on time if it’s due up.
There isn't a reasonable at-home way to "inspect" fluids like that for degradation, so most of us just change it when the inspection would be due.

But yes I recommend getting ahold of the official manuals for more clarity on toyota's recommended schedule and the nuances of it.
 
For those who have an aftermarket locker, any ideas the best way to re-seal the e-locker grommet/entry point on the top of the rear diff? Clean up and coat with RTV? Something else? I really don’t want to have to pull the 3rd member to fix it if I can avoid that.

I spent some time under the truck today and noticed some oily residue on the top and back of the diff. The front side (left, right, and bottom) of the 3rd member are clean. I don’t see any oil from the pinion seal, but lots of oily dirt on top. It’s hard to tell laying under the truck but I suspect it’s got a small leak where the wires enter.

Best pics I could get below. In fairness I do use fluidfilm in the fall but from the smell I don’t think it’s that. I did open the full port and while it looked pretty full I managed to squeeze about 1/4 to 1/2 a cup of oil into the diff before it started trickling out. Not sure if it’s leaking much (diff fluid was changed about 3000 miles ago) or if it just wasn’t quite full when the shop did it because it was on a lift vs the ground.


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Thanks guys - I will order from Toyota. I honestly was a bit lazy and was searching through old threads for the answer and is where I got the link + picture.

It seems like the parts I need to order are as follows:

15643-31050: Metal housing itself
15620-31060: Drain plug

The rest can be swapped over from the old plastic housing.

So I got the parts today from Toyota - new Venza/metal filter housing + drain cap/plug.

I was reading that you need to swap things over from the old plastic housing. What is that? I was thinking it would be the screen (cheese grater thing) but it was included with the metal piece. Anything else to swap over? Wanted to make sure since I'm without a second car (I'm moving soon). Thanks! Pic for reference.

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So I got the parts today from Toyota - new Venza/metal filter housing + drain cap/plug.

I was reading that you need to swap things over from the old plastic housing. What is that? I was thinking it would be the screen (cheese grater thing) but it was included with the metal piece. Anything else to swap over? Wanted to make sure since I'm without a second car (I'm moving soon). Thanks! Pic for reference.

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That filter support (cheese grater thing) is sized for the shorter filter from the car. Remove and install the longer one from the plastic part
 
That filter support (cheese grater thing) is sized for the shorter filter from the car. Remove and install the longer one from the plastic part
It’s quite obvious, but you need to use a flathead screwdriver to ply tiny tab at the bottom to remove it; and there is a spring so don’t get too close as you turn and remove it 😂
 
Thank you guys! Let me know if anything else comes to mind. I think I handle the tabs part - saw it's held in by those. Crazy how these things are overbuild and have a plastic housing for such an important maintenance item.
 
Thank you guys! Let me know if anything else comes to mind. I think I handle the tabs part - saw it's held in by those. Crazy how these things are overbuild and have a plastic housing for such an important maintenance item.

Yeah you did good, I have had a much better time with the aluminum oem housing. Goes on and off smooth and my tool gets a great grip on it since I have to go through the slee skid opening it gives no feeling of slip or rounding off.
 
Who makes the best quality extended M14x1.5 studs?
 
Who makes the best quality extended M14x1.5 studs?
Well... they are not easy to find. Are you sure you need them? What wheels are you trying to run?
I thought I needed extended studs, but I ended up having the wrong extended lug nuts.

 
Well... they are not easy to find. Are you sure you need them? What wheels are you trying to run?
I thought I needed extended studs, but I ended up having the wrong extended lug nuts.


Ouch, I was hoping to get a link.

I actually do need them, and im OCD and a ridiculous person in general lol.
 
For what wheels? TLDR there are some options in that first thread but nobody has actually tried it.

Its going to be factory +60 20" wheels, on 15mm adapter for effective +45 (around +40 due to lift track narrowing).
A test fit with a 5mm shim basically lost so much thread engagement up front I wasn't comfortable running it.
I could get MAYBE 6.5 turns on there. Ive seen min 7-9 for this diameter bolt.
 
Its going to be factory +60 20" wheels, on 15mm adapter for effective +45 (around +40 due to lift track narrowing).
A test fit with a 5mm shim basically lost so much thread engagement up front I wasn't comfortable running it.
I could get MAYBE 6.5 turns on there. Ive seen min 7-9 for this diameter bolt.
Extended lug nuts will get you the thread engagement. No need for longer studs. Probably want to only get 1 or 5 to verify fitment with though
 
Extended lug nuts will get you the thread engagement. No need for longer studs. Probably want to only get 1 or 5 to verify fitment with though

Wait, they make mag style flat lugs with even more extension? I don't think that would work since its still I cone seat into the wheel pad.
Got links? OG Linkmeister Grinchy
 
Well... they are not easy to find. Are you sure you need them? What wheels are you trying to run?
I thought I needed extended studs, but I ended up having the wrong extended lug nuts.

Agreed, I quick looked through references for wheel studs. Below is what I came up with. For Tacomas, etc ARP studs for a Lexus were popular upgrades, but it does not look like ARP makes a knurl diameter large enough for our LCs. Model year 2015-2023 Ford F-150 studs look to be close to our spec but longer.

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