SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (18 Viewers)

[grinchy]

I did a search a couple years ago.

Nice Products S-6330 - can't seem to find a distributor to ship to US
KYO-EI HUB BOLT M14xP1.5 SBLC - $9 each

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

I’ve been reading and re-reading the docs
And can’t find a good answer.

The docs say:
The entire block is rated to 125A total but only 30A per circuit.

But my question is:
If I want to run 30A through one of those circuits, do I put a 30A or a 40A fuse in the circuit?
I fear a 30A fuse will blow when I try to run 30A through it.
But again, it seems odd to put a 40A fuse in there.

I run whatever fuse protects the wire. So if I know I'm going to run 30A through one of the circuits and know that you'll run a 35 or 40A fuse, I'd plan my wiring to be rated for the 40 + some safety margin. Probably wild overkill, but thats just what I learned in my E&M classes/here on forums, and my truck is still very much not on fire.

EDIT: My bad, I thought I was at the bottom of the page, and am now seeing that there are probably 6 pages of answers for you already here

 

[Valgrind]

Its going to be factory +60 20" wheels, on 15mm adapter for effective +45 (around +40 due to lift track narrowing).
A test fit with a 5mm shim basically lost so much thread engagement up front I wasn't comfortable running it.
I could get MAYBE 6.5 turns on there. Ive seen min 7-9 for this diameter bolt.

Yeah, all you need is true extended lug nuts. 15mm is about what my methods added from hub to the angle of the lug nut, compared to the stock wheels. I used the method extended thread lug nuts, originally I tried gorilla and they were not long enough, so not all extended are created equal.

 

[AnyMal]

Yeah, all you need is true extended lug nuts. 15mm is about what my methods added from hub to the angle of the lug nut, compared to the stock wheels. I used the method extended thread lug nuts, originally I tried gorilla and they were not long enough, so not all extended are created equal.

Yall ain’t hearing me

 

[grinchy]

Yall ain’t hearing me

Well, it’s 10 ET lugs, or 10 longer studs. Pick yer solution and warm up that CC.

 

[AnyMal]

Well, it’s 10 ET lugs, or 10 longer studs. Pick yer solution and warm up that CC.

But acorns won’t work on mag style factory wheels is what I’m saying? I have plenty of shanked ET lugs but I need mag seat. Even if the collet was there, I am wondering what yall are talking about since I’ve never seen that style lug nut have a collet like tapered lugs do.

The factory wheels are NOT designed to hold at the lug seat, please no one do that.

 

[grinchy]

But acorns won’t work on mag style factory wheels is what I’m saying? I have plenty of shanked ET lugs but I need mag seat. Even if the collet was there, I am wondering what yall are talking about since I’ve never seen that style lug nut have a collet like tapered lugs do.

The factory wheels are NOT designed to hold at the lug seat, please no one do that.

So longer studs then.
Try this post
Post in thread 'SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day'
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sqod-squad-stupid-question-of-the-day.862977/post-15426154

 

[DallasTide]

Does anyone who has replaced their rear bumper have a black hitch cover laying around that they could part with? This is for a 2016+ LC. Figured I would ask before I send Mr. Toyota $100 for some plastic. TIA

 

[joyRidaz]

‘09 LX570, is there no interior way to open the rear hatch?

Yesterday my battery died and had to crawl into my cargo area to get my jumper cables and couldn’t find an exit from the inside. Seems very unToyota so I’m assuming it’s user error on my part.

 

[DallasTide]

‘09 LX570, is there no interior way to open the rear hatch?

Yesterday my battery died and had to crawl into my cargo area to get my jumper cables and couldn’t find an exit from the inside. Seems very unToyota so I’m assuming it’s user error on my part.

Lots of people install this.

Edit: I guess you would still need power for this to work. I’m not a smart man.

LC200 Rear (Interior) Exit Switch Mod

Rear Exit Switch Mod The 200 Series LC doesn’t have a way to exit out of the back hatch if you happen to be back there. The Lexus folks don’t have this issue as they have a power rear hatch that can be opened via the fob. After discussing with my buddies Dave and Kurt, I figured this was a...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Sandroad]

‘09 LX570, is there no interior way to open the rear hatch?

Yesterday my battery died and had to crawl into my cargo area to get my jumper cables and couldn’t find an exit from the inside. Seems very unToyota so I’m assuming it’s user error on my part.

I don’t know if this fits an LX, but a quick call would find out.

200 Series Rear Exit Switch/Handle Kit - Black (ELEC200BLK)

Cruiser Teq is the premier provider of high quality OEM, Japanese, and aftermarket Toyota Land Cruiser parts and accessories.

cruiserteq.com

 

[tbisaacs]

I don’t know if this fits an LX, but a quick call would find out.

200 Series Rear Exit Switch/Handle Kit - Black (ELEC200BLK)

Cruiser Teq is the premier provider of high quality OEM, Japanese, and aftermarket Toyota Land Cruiser parts and accessories.

cruiserteq.com

It’s the same for LX.

 

[TeCKis300]

‘09 LX570, is there no interior way to open the rear hatch?

Yesterday my battery died and had to crawl into my cargo area to get my jumper cables and couldn’t find an exit from the inside. Seems very unToyota so I’m assuming it’s user error on my part.

The hatch release is completely electronic so it wouldn't matter if you had access to the inside or that kit.

I would highly encourage everyone carry a lithium jump starter with them, that could be handy for situations like this. With so many electronics on modern cars, it's good insurance to have.

As an aside, with power and car camping, LX owners and later LC power hatch owners can use the key-fob to power open the rear hatch from the inside. No add on interior release button necessary.

 

[lx200inAR]

The hatch release is completely electronic so it wouldn't matter if you had access to the inside or that kit.

I would highly encourage everyone carry a lithium jump starter with them, that could be handy for situations like this. With so many electronics on modern cars, it's good insurance to have.

As an aside, with power and car camping, LX owners and later LC power hatch owners can use the key-fob to power open the rear hatch from the inside. No add on interior release button necessary.

+1, although, if you want to avoid being stuck in your hatch, better keep the jumpstarter pack in the glove box.

On a serious note though, I've bailed out myself from being stranded multiple times with the jump packs. For how little real estate they take up, and how long lithium batteries can keep a charge, everyone should have one.

 

[DallasTide]

I have a noco but of course I cram it into the jack storage so I'd still be climbing through the truck.

 

[PhuckItImDone]

Does anyone who has replaced their rear bumper have a black hitch cover laying around that they could part with? This is for a 2016+ LC. Figured I would ask before I send Mr. Toyota $100 for some plastic. TIA

This one right here? If so, its yours.

 

[DallasTide]

This one right here? If so, its yours.

View attachment 3599862

Dude! You’re the man!

I’ll DM you.

 

[AnyMal]

Any engineer folk want to chime in on whether or not stud length is a potential failure point?

I want to extend studs by a 1/2” up front and 1/4” in rear. Im assuming clamping force takes all shear stress out of the picture correct?

If theres something more im missing or just wrong please let me know.

Also a hardness recommendation wouldnt be terrible.

Thanks

 

[Willie G]

Any engineer folk want to chime in on whether or not stud length is a potential failure point?

I want to extend studs by a 1/2” up front and 1/4” in rear. Im assuming clamping force takes all shear stress out of the picture correct?

If theres something more im missing or just wrong please let me know.

Also a hardness recommendation wouldnt be terrible.

Thanks

I had assumed (I know...) that the wheels were hub-pilot?

Perhaps not.

 

[Willie G]

Speaking of the rubber meeting the road...I was thinking of up-sizing from 285/50/20 (31.2") to the far more common 275/60/20 (33").

Pluses: more sidewall + an additional inch of clearance

What are my negatives, specifically speedo error?