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Nah looks good to me! Send itView attachment 3982251
Will this tire rub?
Extend the rear bump stops 3-4" and if it's narrow enough maybe it'll workView attachment 3982251
Will this tire rub?
I picked up a 2008 last year, and once I got it home I realized the frame was PACKED full of fine silt/mud. It was full in most spots up to the holes in the side of the frame. I took it to work at the lumber mill and used their 1" water hose reduced down to a 1/4" line and put a curve on the end of it, spent a couple hours spraying in every hole until it ran clear. The whole truck felt lighter and more nimble after, definitely lost some pounds. I stick the pressure washer in the frame holes every wash now and try to direct it forward and back til it runs clear.Do any non rust people (west coasters like me) ever wash the inside of the frame? I was doing a post mud rinse and used the pointy tip of the pressure washer to hit a few holes in the frame. Let it run until clear and holy moly I will be doing that regularly from now on.
Do any non rust people (west coasters like me) ever wash the inside of the frame? I was doing a post mud rinse and used the pointy tip of the pressure washer to hit a few holes in the frame. Let it run until clear and holy moly I will be doing that regularly from now on.
There have been a few Mud Masters tackle that job as I recall. I think @bloc has a thread on it.Possible smoking gun and follow up SQOD.
After picking my rig up from Torfab for cam tower reseal, the alternator almost left me stranded on the side of the highway. Back at torfab they found a cooked alternator. At the time I assumed oil from leaking cam tower cooked it.
Fast forward to today I was rooting around and saw another wet spot on front passenger side near steering rack. I confirmed it’s not cam tower or timing cover and the rack itself is dry. But when I look up from rack I see a very wet PS line and a pretty wet fitting on the pump itself-which is above the alternator.
My SQOD: on a scale of 1 to pay somebody, how bad is it to replace the PS pump? And anyone have any threads handy?
My thread isn't comprehensive, it's more about a specific trick to get the pump to move once everything else is out of the way. Personally, I'd pull the radiator to get better access.There have been a few Mud Masters tackle that job as I recall. I think @bloc has a thread on it.
I can say that i had the pump completely disconnected from the engine and hanging from the hydraulic lines when i had mine apart to remove the alternator/starter. It's the first thing that comes off. I didn't swap mine and just mounted it back up after i was done. But i'm pretty sure it comes out pretty easily. There's a youtube mechanic who has a lot of videos working on Tundras. That's the video i used to get the starter/alternator out.Possible smoking gun and follow up SQOD.
After picking my rig up from Torfab for cam tower reseal, the alternator almost left me stranded on the side of the highway. Back at torfab they found a cooked alternator. At the time I assumed oil from leaking cam tower cooked it.
Fast forward to today I was rooting around and saw another wet spot on front passenger side near steering rack. I confirmed it’s not cam tower or timing cover and the rack itself is dry. But when I look up from rack I see a very wet PS line and a pretty wet fitting on the pump itself-which is above the alternator.
My SQOD: on a scale of 1 to pay somebody, how bad is it to replace the PS pump? And anyone have any threads handy?
I can say that i had the pump completely disconnected from the engine and hanging from the hydraulic lines when i had mine apart to remove the alternator/starter. It's the first thing that comes off. I didn't swap mine and just mounted it back up after i was done. But i'm pretty sure it comes out pretty easily. There's a youtube mechanic who has a lot of videos working on Tundras. That's the video i used to get the starter/alternator out.
Here's the video. This guy gives lots of good tips when doing the job.
I did the PS pump as part of my 150 baseline. Not too bad but I did have the radiator out too.Possible smoking gun and follow up SQOD.
After picking my rig up from Torfab for cam tower reseal, the alternator almost left me stranded on the side of the highway. Back at torfab they found a cooked alternator. At the time I assumed oil from leaking cam tower cooked it.
Fast forward to today I was rooting around and saw another wet spot on front passenger side near steering rack. I confirmed it’s not cam tower or timing cover and the rack itself is dry. But when I look up from rack I see a very wet PS line and a pretty wet fitting on the pump itself-which is above the alternator.
My SQOD: on a scale of 1 to pay somebody, how bad is it to replace the PS pump? And anyone have any threads handy?
quick update:Has anyone done TSB L-SB-001-18 to address rough shifts?
My problem is mainly on metered highway ramp entry where you come with some speed and brake to a (almost) complete stop, immediately see the green light and want to speed up, I have to be very light footed to avoid a rough shift.
Anyone? Help a newbie out?I am struggling to understand what specific part I need to order for two items. Looking at part drawings and numbers is new to me, hence the probably dumb question.
1. Front left and right seat cushion pads for bottom and back of seat. I have semi-aniline covers with heated/vented seats. I found the "seat cushion pad" part number 7150260211 but there are several types and I can't seem to find the back nor the right front.
2. Front grill (upper portion). What's the difference between these two? Also, the drawings show two different grills for each. If it matters, I have the "PA INTUITIVE PARK ASSIST WITH WIDE-VIEW FRONT AND SIDE MONITOR (CAMERA ON FRONT GRILLE & PASSENGER-SIDE OUTSIDE MIRROR)"
3. Front wiper blades... This is really a SQOD but I'm confused. I've found these two parts but why is one labelled left and the other doesn't label left or right? Also, I actually have one wiper blade so only need one, but I'm not sure if it is the left or right. How would I confirm? The number printed on the blade is 202325A and I couldn't find a reference for that.
- 2013 Lexus LX 570 Grille. Body, Interior, RADIATOR - 5310160919 | Bell Lexus North Scottsdale, Scottsdale AZ - https://parts.belllexusnorthscottsdale.com/p/Lexus_2013_LX-570/Grille/63556639/5310160919.html
- 2013 Lexus LX 570 Grille. BACK, Body, Interior - 5310160920 | Bell Lexus North Scottsdale, Scottsdale AZ - https://parts.belllexusnorthscottsdale.com/p/Lexus_2013_LX-570/Grille/63400284/5310160920.html
Thanks
- 85222-53071 - Lexus Parts Now - https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/lexus-blade-front-wiper~85222-53071.html?vin=JTJHY7AX0D4113927&make=Lexus&model=LX570&year=2013&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()
- 85222-42110 - Lexus Parts Now - https://www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/lexus-blade-fr-wiper-lh~85222-42110.html?vin=JTJHY7AX0D4113927&make=Lexus&model=LX570&year=2013&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()
The front brakes don’t have guide pins in the traditional sense, and the rear brakes do have boots for the pins.what (if any) annual brake maintenance are you doing? Nothing, something, everything?
I’ve recently been told that breaking everything down cleaning and regreasing, caliper pins, etc was a good idea. Given our brakes (from what I can tell) don’t have caliper guide pin boots, etc what are you doing? TIA.