2021What year?
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
2021What year?
Thank you! Brake fluid is fresh. Shouldn't have to change it for another 2 yrs. I am hopefully not going to be having to do this for a while, but wanted to have PLENTY of time to get the steps in order before getting after it. I keep forgetting I have the FSMNote that I omitted the steps involved in actually disconnecting the caliper since there's no reason to do so unless you're replacing it. If you are then I recommend using a hose clamp before disconnecting the line so you don't lose a bunch of fluid and/or end up with a ton of air in the system.
Practically speaking, if you don't remove the discs and you just do a pad swap you can leave out several steps above.
I used a one man brake bleeder and crack the bleeder screw when I push the pistons in the calipers back in. I still recommend bleeding the brakes when you're done (and really this is an opportune time to flush your brake fluid, but it's one or two pumps at that point if you just want to ensure all the air is out.
yes finally figured it out. I think its the oil pan gasket.Did you figure out if the drain plug was the cause of your leak? Hopefully it is, because it's an easy fix (relatively).
Parts counter just confirmed what you said. Pan ordered now.oil pan is held on with FIPG (or at least it should be) no gasket. Thankfully, it's very accessible. I did this job last year after letting the dealership change my oil (wife insisted because I was extremely busy at work at the time). They ugga duggad the drain plug on cross-threaded. Threads were stripped. New pan went in on the next oil change, good times had by all. At least I got the cool little drain valve thingy out of the whole experience.
Is this related to the burning oil smell you posted about?yes finally figured it out. I think its the oil pan gasket.
Drain plug is tight.
Checked those. Look fine and clean.Have you checked the cabin filter area for a mouse nest? They can get in there. Put the HVAC in recirc before checking.
- I think the oil pan seal was leaking beforeIs this related to the burning oil smell you posted about?
Oil pan seal leak spontaneously is unusual.
Hook a bungee into the upper latch mechanism and it’ll snap locked and then the truck thinks it’s locked. Squeeze the latch open and it will pop loose.2016 LC. Is there any way through Techstream or otherwise to turn off the door ajar beeper?
I occasionally carry 4x8 sheets of plywood or 12 foot boards, so they stick out the back just a tad. No big deal to bungee the hatch down. Obviously the warning icon comes on, no problem, but the damn beeper beeps until I get home. Very annoying, trusty 100 never did that.
These are the parts I ordered and installed in my '17. Same for '21 if you go OEM.2021
4771543010 | 4 | $ 6.88 | Disc Brake Caliper Pin (Rear) |
0494860040 | 1 | $ 7.98 | Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Set (Rear) |
0494660120 | 1 | $ 9.99 | SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL(FOR REAR DISC BRAKE) |
0446660160 | 1 | $ 34.93 | Disc Brake Pad Set (Rear) |
4351260210 | 2 | $ 45.43 | Disc Brake Rotor (Front) |
9024006024 | 4 | $ 0.64 | PIN, WITH HOLE(FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE ANTI-RATTLE) |
0494760140 | 1 | $ 4.03 | Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Set (Front) |
0494560080 | 1 | $ 23.36 | SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL, FRONT |
0446560280 | 1 | $ 54.77 | Disc Brake Pad Set (Front) |
Genuine Toyota.I am nearing 130k mi and figure it is about time to replace the spark plugs. What is the general consensus on the best replacement plug?
If you are then I recommend using a hose clamp before disconnecting the line so you don't lose a bunch of fluid and/or end up with a ton of air in the system.
Hook a bungee into the upper latch mechanism and it’ll snap locked and then the truck thinks it’s locked. Squeeze the latch open and it will pop loose.
I'm just happy to hear about another building materials transporting LC2016 LC. Is there any way through Techstream or otherwise to turn off the door ajar beeper?
I occasionally carry 4x8 sheets of plywood or 12 foot boards, so they stick out the back just a tad. No big deal to bungee the hatch down. Obviously the warning icon comes on, no problem, but the damn beeper beeps until I get home. Very annoying, trusty 100 never did that.
If you forget and slam the hatch, you'll drive the plastic up into the latch, then have to dig it back out. A better way is to pop off the plastic on the lift gate and hack into the wiring for the latch switch. I have a small push button on my hatch where I can bypass the switch when driving with the upper hatch open.Hah, caught me going high-tech when a low tech solution is far better! Thanks.
Maybe I can stay high tech if I fire up the 3d printer and make a custom "latch block" to keep in the jack door pocket.
Anyone know where to source a pair of grade 10.9 or higher flange hex bolts M14x1.5 (fine thread) 110mm long? Ideally Zinc or some other rust-resistant coating. I can find 100mm and I might be able to source 120mm and then cut it down, but I’d prefer not to grind and chase threads on this.
FYI I found these ARB parts online, but they are only available from the UK with a $35 shipping charge, which is crazy expensive. contacted Cruiser Outfitters but they can’t source them.
BOLT FLANGE M14X1.5X110 GR10.9 – 6151539 – ARB
PART NO. 6151539