SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (20 Viewers)

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Note that I omitted the steps involved in actually disconnecting the caliper since there's no reason to do so unless you're replacing it. If you are then I recommend using a hose clamp before disconnecting the line so you don't lose a bunch of fluid and/or end up with a ton of air in the system.

Practically speaking, if you don't remove the discs and you just do a pad swap you can leave out several steps above.

I used a one man brake bleeder and crack the bleeder screw when I push the pistons in the calipers back in. I still recommend bleeding the brakes when you're done (and really this is an opportune time to flush your brake fluid, but it's one or two pumps at that point if you just want to ensure all the air is out.
Thank you! Brake fluid is fresh. Shouldn't have to change it for another 2 yrs. I am hopefully not going to be having to do this for a while, but wanted to have PLENTY of time to get the steps in order before getting after it. I keep forgetting I have the FSM 🥴
 
It's pretty straightforward. If I can do it, you can do it. I actually had more trouble doing the brakes in my wife's Mini Cooper because in that vehicle the pistons in the caliper require a special adapter as they have to spin back inward, unlike ours which simply move in and out.
 
oil pan is held on with FIPG (or at least it should be) no gasket. Thankfully, it's very accessible. I did this job last year after letting the dealership change my oil (wife insisted because I was extremely busy at work at the time). They ugga duggad the drain plug on cross-threaded. Threads were stripped. New pan went in on the next oil change, good times had by all. At least I got the cool little drain valve thingy out of the whole experience.
 
oil pan is held on with FIPG (or at least it should be) no gasket. Thankfully, it's very accessible. I did this job last year after letting the dealership change my oil (wife insisted because I was extremely busy at work at the time). They ugga duggad the drain plug on cross-threaded. Threads were stripped. New pan went in on the next oil change, good times had by all. At least I got the cool little drain valve thingy out of the whole experience.
Parts counter just confirmed what you said. Pan ordered now.

200 parked till I can swap it on Thursday

Just money right lol
 
2016 LC. Is there any way through Techstream or otherwise to turn off the door ajar beeper?

I occasionally carry 4x8 sheets of plywood or 12 foot boards, so they stick out the back just a tad. No big deal to bungee the hatch down. Obviously the warning icon comes on, no problem, but the damn beeper beeps until I get home. Very annoying, trusty 100 never did that.
 
yes finally figured it out. I think its the oil pan gasket.

Drain plug is tight.
Is this related to the burning oil smell you posted about?

Oil pan seal leak spontaneously is unusual.
 
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Have you checked the cabin filter area for a mouse nest? They can get in there. Put the HVAC in recirc before checking.
Checked those. Look fine and clean.

Was reading on FB and I was told that it could be either the battery leaking or AC Evap leaking?
 
Is this related to the burning oil smell you posted about?

Oil pan seal leak spontaneously is unusual.
- I think the oil pan seal was leaking before

- however i had the valve cover gasket replaced (where oil had dripped on heatshield) as that is what was diagnosed at PPI at toyota . That is all good now.

however the amount of sudden leak was surprising and this kind of amount.

it all happened after i baselined the diff/trans/steering/brake fluid - which of course was unrelated

freak thing?
 
2016 LC. Is there any way through Techstream or otherwise to turn off the door ajar beeper?

I occasionally carry 4x8 sheets of plywood or 12 foot boards, so they stick out the back just a tad. No big deal to bungee the hatch down. Obviously the warning icon comes on, no problem, but the damn beeper beeps until I get home. Very annoying, trusty 100 never did that.
Hook a bungee into the upper latch mechanism and it’ll snap locked and then the truck thinks it’s locked. Squeeze the latch open and it will pop loose.
 
These are the parts I ordered and installed in my '17. Same for '21 if you go OEM.

4771543010​
4
$ 6.88​
Disc Brake Caliper Pin (Rear)
0494860040​
1
$ 7.98​
Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Set (Rear)
0494660120​
1
$ 9.99​
SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL(FOR REAR DISC BRAKE)
0446660160​
1
$ 34.93​
Disc Brake Pad Set (Rear)
4351260210​
2
$ 45.43​
Disc Brake Rotor (Front)
9024006024​
4
$ 0.64​
PIN, WITH HOLE(FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE ANTI-RATTLE)
0494760140​
1
$ 4.03​
Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Set (Front)
0494560080​
1
$ 23.36​
SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL, FRONT
0446560280​
1
$ 54.77​
Disc Brake Pad Set (Front)
 
I am nearing 130k mi and figure it is about time to replace the spark plugs. What is the general consensus on the best replacement plug?
Genuine Toyota.
 
If you are then I recommend using a hose clamp before disconnecting the line so you don't lose a bunch of fluid and/or end up with a ton of air in the system.

Hose clamp how?
 
Hook a bungee into the upper latch mechanism and it’ll snap locked and then the truck thinks it’s locked. Squeeze the latch open and it will pop loose.

Hah, caught me going high-tech when a low tech solution is far better! Thanks.

Maybe I can stay high tech if I fire up the 3d printer and make a custom "latch block" to keep in the jack door pocket.
 
Anyone know where to source a pair of grade 10.9 or higher flange hex bolts M14x1.5 (fine thread) 110mm long? Ideally Zinc or some other rust-resistant coating. I can find 100mm and I might be able to source 120mm and then cut it down, but I’d prefer not to grind and chase threads on this.

FYI I found these ARB parts online, but they are only available from the UK with a $35 shipping charge, which is crazy expensive. contacted Cruiser Outfitters but they can’t source them.

BOLT FLANGE M14X1.5X110 GR10.9 – 6151539 – ARB
PART NO. 6151539
 
2016 LC. Is there any way through Techstream or otherwise to turn off the door ajar beeper?

I occasionally carry 4x8 sheets of plywood or 12 foot boards, so they stick out the back just a tad. No big deal to bungee the hatch down. Obviously the warning icon comes on, no problem, but the damn beeper beeps until I get home. Very annoying, trusty 100 never did that.
I'm just happy to hear about another building materials transporting LC
 
Hah, caught me going high-tech when a low tech solution is far better! Thanks.

Maybe I can stay high tech if I fire up the 3d printer and make a custom "latch block" to keep in the jack door pocket.
If you forget and slam the hatch, you'll drive the plastic up into the latch, then have to dig it back out. A better way is to pop off the plastic on the lift gate and hack into the wiring for the latch switch. I have a small push button on my hatch where I can bypass the switch when driving with the upper hatch open.

It's also super-handy when you're parked with the hatch open and timer shuts off the internal dome lights. Just bump the switch in and out and the lights come back on. But I also have a NL light on my hatch for long-term super bright lighting.

PXL_20231024_174015645.jpg
 
Anyone know where to source a pair of grade 10.9 or higher flange hex bolts M14x1.5 (fine thread) 110mm long? Ideally Zinc or some other rust-resistant coating. I can find 100mm and I might be able to source 120mm and then cut it down, but I’d prefer not to grind and chase threads on this.

FYI I found these ARB parts online, but they are only available from the UK with a $35 shipping charge, which is crazy expensive. contacted Cruiser Outfitters but they can’t source them.

BOLT FLANGE M14X1.5X110 GR10.9 – 6151539 – ARB
PART NO. 6151539

What ARB product are they used on?
 

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