SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (3 Viewers)

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I'm going with a drain plug issue as well. From the little we can see in pics, it doesn't look to be coming from anything up high, and it looks like the color and consistency of engine oil.

Like @Sandroad posted it could be an O-ring issue too. It's common-ish for the large O-ring for the filter housing to get set in the bottom thread rather than in the proper O-ring groove.
 
It’s the right color and location to be a leaking engine oil drain plug or maybe a leaking filter housing. Maybe an accidentally doubled o-ring on the housing or doubled washer on the drain plug?
filter housing up front all dry.

i will get it up on a ramp and check it. It is 100% motor oil. Rate of “gush” would suggest drain plug loose
 
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Have a not very good deli-like smell when I start the LC after it’s been sitting for a few hours. It goes away in about 10 minutes. Checked the drains and the floor, all seem dry and clear. It seems like it’s coming from the center console area. Cleaned out the cool box pretty good too. Have run the heater for a while and it hasn’t helped. Any other thoughts?
 
It’s the right color and location to be a leaking engine oil drain plug or maybe a leaking filter housing. Maybe an accidentally doubled o-ring on the housing or doubled washer on the drain plug?

I like the idea of the double washer. Sometimes it’s hard to tell if the old washer came off or not and gets lost in the oil pan when changing the oil. (And those buggers get stuck on there)

Or we should also confirm… Did the OP use a new washer on the drain plug? That could also be the issue if one was not used.
 
I like the idea of the double washer. Sometimes it’s hard to tell if the old washer came off or not and gets lost in the oil pan when changing the oil. (And those buggers get stuck on there)

Or we should also confirm… Did the OP use a new washer on the drain plug? That could also be the issue if one was not used.
I did not use a new washer.
 
That plug requires a new washer every time... or use the valve which does not.

Using a clean pan you can just pour the oil back in (since you just changed it).
 
I did not use a new washer.
They are less than 50 cents each. Get a handful from a dealer (parts store washers are different) and have them on the shelf for future changes. While you are at it Genuine Toyota filters are really cheap from the dealer.. might as well have a few of those too if you plan to keep the car.

Always use a new washer in this application.
 
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They are less than 50 cents each. Get a handful from a dealer (parts store washers are different) and have them on the shelf for future changes. While you are at it Genuine Toyota filters are really cheap from the dealer.. might as well have a few of those too if you plan to keep the car.

Always use a new washer in this application.
Thank you kindly. Will pick this up tomorrow morning. Appreciate it
 
Thank you kindly. Will pick this up tomorrow morning. Appreciate it
Did you figure out if the drain plug was the cause of your leak? Hopefully it is, because it's an easy fix (relatively).
 
Have a not very good deli-like smell when I start the LC after it’s been sitting for a few hours. It goes away in about 10 minutes. Checked the drains and the floor, all seem dry and clear. It seems like it’s coming from the center console area. Cleaned out the cool box pretty good too. Have run the heater for a while and it hasn’t helped. Any other thoughts?
Completely unrelated question: do you have children and have they been passengers in the car? Yes, you assure yourself of the effectiveness of your boarding procedure, but my brother, the pat-down will NOT reveal pockets lined with pastrami. I'm not saying anymore than that.
 
Have a not very good deli-like smell when I start the LC after it’s been sitting for a few hours. It goes away in about 10 minutes. Checked the drains and the floor, all seem dry and clear. It seems like it’s coming from the center console area. Cleaned out the cool box pretty good too. Have run the heater for a while and it hasn’t helped. Any other thoughts?
Have you checked the cabin filter area for a mouse nest? They can get in there. Put the HVAC in recirc before checking.
 
Is there a thread write up on changing brake rotors and pads? I found one regarding the parking brake, but didn't see one in the master thread regarding brakes. YT is hit or miss and I was hoping to get torque specs and any single use bolts right the first time. TIA.

EDIT: I found this thread by @gaijin SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sqod-squad-stupid-question-of-the-day.862977/page-182#post-13903663

Looks like rotors are the same, however brake pads different. Still wondering about any single use hardware and torque.

Pads:
Front - 04465-60281
Rear - 04466-60161
 
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Any how-to you find on tundra brakes will apply to a 200.
 
Is there a thread write up on changing brake rotors and pads? I found one regarding the parking brake, but didn't see one in the master thread regarding brakes. YT is hit or miss and I was hoping to get torque specs and any single use bolts right the first time. TIA.

EDIT: I found this thread by @gaijin SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sqod-squad-stupid-question-of-the-day.862977/page-182#post-13903663

Looks like rotors are the same, however brake pads different. Still wondering about any single use hardware and torque.

Pads:
Front - 04465-60281
Rear - 04466-60161
What year?
 
Front removal:
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Front installation:


1698089982779.png


1698090036136.png

1698090052657.png
 
I believe this is the steps for the rear.

Removal:

1698090225490.png

1698090257996.png



Installation:
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Last step...
1698090393826.png
 
Note that I omitted the steps involved in actually disconnecting the caliper since there's no reason to do so unless you're replacing it. If you are then I recommend using a hose clamp before disconnecting the line so you don't lose a bunch of fluid and/or end up with a ton of air in the system.

Practically speaking, if you don't remove the discs and you just do a pad swap you can leave out several steps above.

I used a one man brake bleeder and crack the bleeder screw when I push the pistons in the calipers back in. I still recommend bleeding the brakes when you're done (and really this is an opportune time to flush your brake fluid, but it's one or two pumps at that point if you just want to ensure all the air is out.
 

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