SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (33 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I would say that u- joint failed due to lack of proper lubrication, which has allowed the yokes to contact each other. Looks like an expensive repair. How many miles?
Pretty confident that’s what has been happening. I can hear them contacting now that I know what it is.
190k miles
$317 for an OEM replacement
 
$317 is a great deal for a new Toyota driveshaft. Just bolt 'er in and as good as new. Keep the new one greased better than the old one lol.
 
Pretty confident that’s what has been happening. I can hear them contacting now that I know what it is.
190k miles
$317 for an OEM replacement
You’ll need the entire driveshaft, not just the universal joints. Too much damage to the yoke. Discount parts places it’s around $500 plus shipping and installation. How is the rear?
 
$317 is a great deal for a new Toyota driveshaft. Just bolt 'er in and as good as new. Keep the new one greased better than the old one lol.
I thought it was pretty good. I couldn't imagine replacing the individual parts for less.

You’ll need the entire driveshaft, not just the universal joints. Too much damage to the yoke. Discount parts places it’s around $500 plus shipping and installation. How is the rear?
The $317 is for the complete assembly, 3714060590.

I can remove the existing shaft and still drive around in RWD right? It'll probably be a week before I can put one in.
 
If I remember correctly, you'll need to have your center diff locked for that to work.
 
$317 for the entire shaft is a lot cheaper than I thought it would be. I once had to buy the entire rear shaft for an '04 Highlander, Toyota wanted $1800 for it. :oops:

Still... $317 would buy a lot of grease.
 
That joints zerk is suck a pain to get to also! The lock n lube doesn't fit into the space there and I need to find the right zerk fitting for my grease gun to get in there
 
I would say that u- joint failed due to lack of proper lubrication, which has allowed the yokes to contact each other. Looks like an expensive repair. How many miles?

I would say that some type of debris, either a lost piece of hardware or a rock got impinged between the yoke ears and the metal became the fuse. If there was enough wear in the joint to cause the yoke ears to contact it would have completely destroyed itself.

For replacement, I've used Tom Woods before. Good product and can be custom built to your application (if needed, i.e. if needing to lengthen for a rear lift).
 
I would say that some type of debris, either a lost piece of hardware or a rock got impinged between the yoke ears and the metal became the fuse. If there was enough wear in the joint to cause the yoke ears to contact it would have completely destroyed itself.

For replacement, I've used Tom Woods before. Good product and can be custom built to your application (if needed, i.e. if needing to lengthen for a rear lift).
I agree. That's really odd wear and could not have come from just bad spider bearings. It shows, however, just how tough those u-joints are!
 
Tom Woods driveshafts are awesome, especially where custom builds need unique lengths, etc. In the other hand, on the 200 the factory unit is roust and durable (and very cost effective). Maintain the stock unit by greasing it periodically, and it should last a lifetime.
 
That joints zerk is suck a pain to get to also! The lock n lube doesn't fit into the space there and I need to find the right zerk fitting for my grease gun to get in there
I would say that some type of debris, either a lost piece of hardware or a rock got impinged between the yoke ears and the metal became the fuse. If there was enough wear in the joint to cause the yoke ears to contact it would have completely destroyed itself.

For replacement, I've used Tom Woods before. Good product and can be custom built to your application (if needed, i.e. if needing to lengthen for a rear lift).
I agree. That's really odd wear and could not have come from just bad spider bearings. It shows, however, just how tough those u-joints are!
Tom Woods driveshafts are awesome, especially where custom builds need unique lengths, etc. In the other hand, on the 200 the factory unit is roust and durable (and very cost effective). Maintain the stock unit by greasing it periodically, and it should last a lifetime.
I ordered a driveshaft (3714060590) from Bell Lexus for $317 shipped. I have a Moab trip scheduled in two weeks so I need it sooner than a custom one, plus it's for the front. I figure $317 is a win.

I popped the old one out :)banana: job, 20-30 minutes) and snapped the below pics. I think it looks like maybe a combo of things. Looks like a snap ring came out and lack of grease. Maybe lack of grease caused it. Who knows. The front u-joint was solid.

Anyways, let this be a lesson to make the effort to grease every u-joint... not just the ones that are easy to reach. I'm seriously lucky my driveshaft didn't come loose and do some serious damage.
ujoint00.jpg

ujoint01.jpg
 
Again, I assume it's okay to drive around without the front DS installed. Can anyone confirm or deny this?
 
My only experience is with the 80 series, but it's OK to drive with one driveshaft (front or rear) as long as the center diff is locked. I'm sure someone here knows the specifics for a 200.
 
No issues from my experience. After busting my driver side CV on a trail I removed the front driveshaft and and locked the center diff in order to drive home. Was in 4hi and put a couple hundred miles on it with the front drive shaft removed. No dash lights just made a lot of noise due to the busted CV.
 
Again, I assume it's okay to drive around without the front DS installed. Can anyone confirm or deny this?
As long as your center diff is locked go for it
 
Again, I assume it's okay to drive around without the front DS installed. Can anyone confirm or deny this?
Just know that stability control is inhibited with CDL locked so drive accordingly.
 
View attachment 3125859

In looking at this closer, I'm leaning away from my post above. What I thought were witness marks from external abrasion now appear to be the fracture plane.
I thought that's what you meant in your post above. Something got caught in there and broke both halves of the yoke and part of the spider.
 
I thought that's what you meant in your post above. Something got caught in there and broke both halves of the yoke and part of the spider.
I had originally though that it fractured from an outside source, something caught external to the joint. Now I lean toward thinking that the lack of lubrication caused it to seize and fracture from the inside. Once fractured it relieved the impingement and allowed things to rotate again, albeit with slop.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom