SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (27 Viewers)

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Have you actually seen this car, or is it just posted online. I’d be concerned it was actually exported and it’s a scammer if you can’t put eyes on it.
What makes me think otherwise is that there are regular service entries except for the time span from between 9/2014 and 6/2018, but I can't understand why it would have to be annually registered in Georgia while the car was potentially overseas.
 
Have you actually seen this car, or is it just posted online. I’d be concerned it was actually exported and it’s a scammer if you can’t put eyes on it.
That’s a good thought, but have confirmed that it does exist and is for sale.
 
That’s a good thought, but have confirmed that it does exist and is for sale.
Cool. When I was looking in 2016 there were a few scams going on which involved forging CARFAX reports, so I’m always suspicious
 
That’s a good thought, but have confirmed that it does exist and is for sale.
I would think it would be difficult to manipulate vin history. Pass on the vehicle IMO and wait for another to come up. Plenty of 200s to pick from. A clean history would be easier to off load than one with a sketchy history that you can't explain.
 
Any recommendations on a tool that can assist with supporting underbody armor when removing/installing it? When changing the oil, the front skidplate needs to be removed and it's not the easiest of tasks to tackle by yourself. Assume something like a jack stand would work, but I thought this thread would be the perfect place to ask.
I currently have the Ironman skidplate(s) installed.
 
Any recommendations on a tool that can assist with supporting underbody armor when removing/installing it? When changing the oil, the front skidplate needs to be removed and it's not the easiest of tasks to tackle by yourself. Assume something like a jack stand would work, but I thought this thread would be the perfect place to ask.
I currently have the Ironman skidplate(s) installed.


Hole saw. I cut a hole and then covered it with an inspection plate for removing the oil filter.
 
Any recommendations on a tool that can assist with supporting underbody armor when removing/installing it? When changing the oil, the front skidplate needs to be removed and it's not the easiest of tasks to tackle by yourself. Assume something like a jack stand would work, but I thought this thread would be the perfect place to ask.
I currently have the Ironman skidplate(s) installed.
Floor jack (gas tank skid) or a pair of jack stands (other skids) is what I use for removing and installing my skid plates (3/16" stainless steel budbuilts are HEAVY).
 
I would think it would be difficult to manipulate vin history. Pass on the vehicle IMO and wait for another to come up. Plenty of 200s to pick from. A clean history would be easier to off load than one with a sketchy history that you can't explain.

There are, but I just haven’t seen many 13-15s out there in the last 6 months that aren’t way overpriced and the Mud classifieds are just as awful - filled with dudes who purchased in the last year and want a crazy return. The dealers are just sitting on them and refuse to work a deal.

Wish one of my Mudder brudders would put a good one up.
 
Any recommendations on a tool that can assist with supporting underbody armor when removing/installing it? When changing the oil, the front skidplate needs to be removed and it's not the easiest of tasks to tackle by yourself. Assume something like a jack stand would work, but I thought this thread would be the perfect place to ask.
I currently have the Ironman skidplate(s) installed.

I usually just wrestle my ARB. There is a bolt in the middle that I leave for last and it's the first in and I can usually manage.
 
Any recommendations on a tool that can assist with supporting underbody armor when removing/installing it? When changing the oil, the front skidplate needs to be removed and it's not the easiest of tasks to tackle by yourself. Assume something like a jack stand would work, but I thought this thread would be the perfect place to ask.
I currently have the Ironman skidplate(s) installed.

This bad boy right here. I've got one, don't own a motorcycle, and just use it for weird stuff. works perfectly for skid plates or sliders
 
This is the forward output from the transfer case/rear of the front driveshaft.
What would’ve caused this? How do I fix it? And how do I prevent it?

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This is the forward output from the transfer case/rear of the front driveshaft.
What would’ve caused this? How do I fix it? And how do I prevent it?

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1st of all - the joints look bone dry - as in they have never been greased.

That being said - Toyota joints have gone hundreds of thousands of miles without grease without issue. You sir have a unique complete failure of that joint. Metal on metal contact is clearly evident in addition to wearing away significant portions of material.

How has the noise/vibration been? There is no way that goes undetected!!
 
1st of all - the joints look bone dry - as in they have never been greased.

That being said - Toyota joints have gone hundreds of thousands of miles without grease without issue. You sir have a unique complete failure of that joint. Metal on metal contact is clearly evident in addition to wearing away significant portions of material.

How has the noise/vibration been? There is no way that goes undetected!!
Yes. Vibration. First thing I did was get the tires road force balanced which helped but this persisted.
 
I'm sure this has been covered but why does the Tundra (comparable to the 200 series) have bigger brakes than the LC/LX?

I know the Tundra brake upgrade is a popular option.
 
I'm sure this has been covered but why does the Tundra (comparable to the 200 series) have bigger brakes than the LC/LX?

I know the Tundra brake upgrade is a popular option.

The second gen tundra can tow up to 10.5k pounds.
 
Can't you just replace the drive shaft and carry on? The nuts are a little tricky to take off, but other than that, it doesn't seem to be that big a job.

Prevent it on the new one by keeping them properly lubricated.
 

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