SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (3 Viewers)

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Has anyone else had there rear pads wear quicker than their fronts? Just curious. When I changed out my pads last week rears were down to metal basically and fronts still had meat left on them.
Yes, my rear pads wear out faster than the front. The dealer did say that they did reset the "Zero Point Calibration" when it was in for an alignment after I install the lift 73k miles ago. I have been planning to do the zero point cal on my own but haven't gotten to it yet... not even sure if that will make a difference. After all, the dealer did say they did it.

R&R rear pads with 20% remaining at around 75k miles. Inst OEM pads
I left the front pads in for another 2 years and about 20k more miles and R&R'd them them with 50% remaining. Inst OEM pads
Rotor visual ck ok, brake pedal not pulsing, measured and within spec so did not change rotors.
All OEM from the factory new.
 
Any issues letting a Toyota dealer do an AHC fluid flush? They’re telling me they can do it. If they’re competent, that would be okay, but I’m not 100% convinced.

The Lexus dealer is over an hour away, so it would be convenient to do it at Toyota.

ETA: wanted to add, this is for the 60k service. Does this truly need to be done at the 60k mark?
 
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Changing the oil today I finally dropped the plates to do a quick sand and paint. What is the use of this foam? If blocks two holes on the plate where it's starting to show rust.

View attachment 3104921

That is to force air through the radiator and prevent it just traveling around the bottom of it. It's a special higher temp foam from toyota.

88578-60391 for each side and it already has the adhesive strip. not cheap.. but IMO necessary. I plan to add it back to the Slee skid system I just installed that did away with the foam.
 
Any issues letting a Toyota dealer do an AHC fluid flush? They’re telling me they can do it. If they’re competent, that would be okay, but I’m not 100% convinced.

The Lexus dealer is over an hour away, so it would be convenient to do it at Toyota.

ETA: wanted to add, this is for the 60k service. Does this truly need to be done at the 60k mark?
Yes, it needs to be done. No, they should not do it or Lexus for that matter. You can do it in your own garage with basic tools. I see the biggest problem with dealers doing this is they come into it with a 100 series attitude and it's the "same" system and they have done lots of them. On the 100 you can drain all four corners refill and be fine. You do that on a 200 and and you will run the tank dry, possibly pull debris into the pump, and then you get a call from the dealer saying "looks like you have a bad pump" we need to replace it. Three weeks later you get your truck back and have a large bill to go along with it.

Go buy a can of fluid, a couple 10mm end wrenches and a 6-pack of beer. The process is almost fool proof if you just take your time and keep the fluid levels up.

Here's my cheat sheet:

AHC BLEED PROCEDURE (Just my method, not Toyotas - YMMV)

1 - Start in LOW with fluid just over MAX fill
2- Bleed DF then DR
3 - Start car and let the system suck up fluid (Should be just below MIN line after a minute) *DO NOT RAISE TO NEUTRAL*
4 - Add fluid to MAX line again and cycle a couple times between LO and N then drop back to LOW.
5 - Check fluid and fill to MAX line
6 - Move to passenger side

7 - Bleed PF and PR
8 - Start car and let the system suck up fluid (Should be just below MIN line after a minute) *DO NOT RAISE TO NEUTRAL*
9 - Add fluid to MAX line again and cycle a couple times between LO and N and leave in N
10 - Fill fluid to MAX line and cycle LO, N, HI a couple times.
11 - Check fluid level and look for leaks.

You will use about 2.5 liters (1 can)

Repeat if fluid is still dark in color. (Requires a second can)
 
Yes, it needs to be done.

Repeat if fluid is still dark in color. (Requires a second can)


I take it this is the KDSS fluid? What mileage does it need to be changed out at?
 
I take it this is the KDSS fluid? What mileage does it need to be changed out at?
They are talking about AHC.. it is my understanding it takes expensive specialized tools to refill KDSS, so I wouldn’t mess with that.
 
Could you please tell me what is AHC? Is this something only on the Lexus version?



They are talking about AHC.. it is my understanding it takes expensive specialized tools to refill KDSS, so I wouldn’t mess with that.
 
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Active Hight Control = hydraulic suspension. It's only fitted on the Lexus in the USA, although it is on the Toyota in different markets. If you've got an LC, you can just ignore this conversation :o
 
How on earth did you get yours to raise that fast? Or is the video sped up?
 

This thread has pictures of where it is. I need to get around to disconnecting mine. Right now I have it in the manual mode.
Thanks again. I was finally able to get under there and pop it out yesterday before leaving on a camping trip. No more beeping late at night!!!
 
Haha, didn't catch that. Trick photography!
 
SQOD:

If I have a P0335, I assume the fix is just to go out and buy a new crank position sensor and plug it in? Got a "Check VSC system" warning and christmas lights all over the dash, paired with a no-start (Thankfully at home after a long day on the road)

{ninja edit re: mud search}

Please and thank you!
 
SQOD:

If I have a P0335, I assume the fix is just to go out and buy a new crank position sensor and plug it in? Got a "Check VSC system" warning and christmas lights all over the dash, paired with a no-start (Thankfully at home after a long day on the road)

{ninja edit re: mud search}

Please and thank you!

It's not common for these to go out. Always possible though.

You might want to inspect the engine bay for any signs of rodents and harness damage.
 
Reading up via search, it seems possible (likely) my p0335 might actually be a dead starter? Starter sounded funny a few times before the no-start (hard to describe--truck started like normal, but also made an additional whirring noise while starting). I didn't have any intermittent starting problems, just the funny starting noise a few times before the final no-start. No-start condition now appears to be permanent. When I go to start it will make the whirring noise and a couple weak-sounding attempts at starting, but engine doesn't turn. Sounds like starter spinning weakly against nothing???
 
Whirring noise sounds associated with the starter sounds like a failed starter solenoid. The gear spins while not engaged with the starter ring gear (or whatever it is called). Since the solenoids are integrated on our starters, the fix is usually to replace or rebuild the starter.
 

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