SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (9 Viewers)

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I haven't tried to use one on a land cruiser so not sure how the info gets displayed.

I would have to know what you were trying to check. As an example for checking transmission fluid levels a temperature check is called for. In which case the following applies before checking the fluid level:

  1. Connect terminals between CG (4) and TC (13) of the DLC3 using SST (09843-18040).
  2. Move the shift lever back and forth between N and D at 1.5 seconds interval for six seconds.
  3. The D shift indicator on the combination meter comes on for two seconds. This indicates that the fluid temperature check mode has been started.
  4. The D shift indicator comes on again when the fluid temperature reaches 46 C (115 F) and blinks when it exceeds 56 C (130 F).
  5. Allow the engine to idle until the fluid temperature reaches 46 C (115 F).
And in my copy of the FSM, if checking the steering (maybe zero point calibration?) the info shows up in the multi-information display. And he's a thread on that topic for a 2013 model.

Let me know if you need any sections of the FSM - but I only have data for the 2016-20 models.
Thanks, I’m just trying to understand what the sst is. Thru wire to connect pins? With a diode maybe? Or a switch on it as some of the procedures involve establishing the connection 4x in 8:seconds, for example. Just trying to think of odd and indispensable things to have in the tool Kit.
what I saw it used for was researching dtc around AHC, but it comes up a lot in all sorts of troubleshooting and special mode setting for calibration etc
 
The one I got back in 2012 was simply a wire (no diode, no light) -- each end having a pin suitable for sticking into the OBDII port connector.
 
I need to remove the ashtray assembly from my 2010 LX to fix the lighter socket (not working, checked fuse). Does the whole thing just pull straight out or do I have to remove anything else first. I'm scared to death of breaking mounting clips.

I'm also open to any tips on how to remove just the socket. There seems to be two small pressed in clips, but I can't get anything in there to bend them out.

Here is the assembly (not my photo)

ashtray mount 1.jpg
 
I've got another SQOD--my Cruiser hit port yesterday so I'm hoping to take delivery some time next week. Day 2 of ownership it's probably getting taken for new tires--I've always been taught to do an alignment after new tires. I'm assuming this still holds true even on a vehicle with less than 100 miles?
 
I need to remove the ashtray assembly from my 2010 LX to fix the lighter socket (not working, checked fuse). Does the whole thing just pull straight out or do I have to remove anything else first. I'm scared to death of breaking mounting clips.

I'm also open to any tips on how to remove just the socket. There seems to be two small pressed in clips, but I can't get anything in there to bend them out.

Here is the assembly (not my photo)

View attachment 2630615

Pulling it requires removing the leather on both sides of the center console (the one with the start button). Then the ash tray assembly will pull out. The plug for the lighter wraps through the ashtray and out the back.
 
I've got another SQOD--my Cruiser hit port yesterday so I'm hoping to take delivery some time next week. Day 2 of ownership it's probably getting taken for new tires--I've always been taught to do an alignment after new tires. I'm assuming this still holds true even on a vehicle with less than 100 miles?
I didn't have an alignment done. I brought in 5 Rock Warriors and had my dealer mount and balance 5 BFG KO2s. Later left on an almost 10K mile road trip with no problems.
I went this route (I got a buy 3 get 1 free deal on the tires) because they were one of the few (at the time) that did road force balancing. While I'm actually not that big of a fan of dealers, they might give a decent allowance for the OEM tires.
 
I didn't have an alignment done. I brought in 5 Rock Warriors and had my dealer mount and balance 5 BFG KO2s. Later left on an almost 10K mile road trip with no problems.
I went this route (I got a buy 3 get 1 free deal on the tires) because they were one of the few (at the time) that did road force balancing. While I'm actually not that big of a fan of dealers, they might give a decent allowance for the OEM tires.
Thank you for the help--I actually talked to my dealer about swapping tires before delivery and they told me they couldn't offer me any sort of credits. My local Discount Tire said they'd give me $50/tire assuming they're in perfect shape which is good enough for me.
 
Pulling it requires removing the leather on both sides of the center console (the one with the start button). Then the ash tray assembly will pull out. The plug for the lighter wraps through the ashtray and out the back.
I was afraid of that. Do the leather side pieces pull straight out towards the doors? If I did manage to get the socket out without removing the panel, will the wires be long enough to at least pull it out?
 
I was afraid of that. Do the leather side pieces pull straight out towards the doors? If I did manage to get the socket out without removing the panel, will the wires be long enough to at least pull it out?

they pull out at like a 45 between console and door, and you want to remove the entire panel to work on it. It’s fragile!
 
I am going to be putting on the newer 2016+ oem wheels from a 2017 land cruiser on my 2013. Do I use the denso tpms Sensors for the 2013 or the newer sensors for the 2016 and newer cruisers ?
 
Sensors changed mid-'15, and you'll need the earlier sensors to be in the wheels.
 
I am going to be putting on the newer 2016+ oem wheels from a 2017 land cruiser on my 2013. Do I use the denso tpms Sensors for the 2013 or the newer sensors for the 2016 and newer cruisers ?
Like KLF says, they changed in ‘15 and are not cross compatible. Use the TPMS sensors from your ‘13 and sell me the ones from your ‘17 rims, please.
 
@KLF & @CharlieS thanks for the quick response, you guys rock! Unfortunately the wheels I bought didn’t come with sensors or I’d be happy to send them your way @CharlieS
 
Good evening, guys.

How common is the coolant valley leak in the 2016s and what is the easiest method for checking without a borescope camera?

Thanks!
 
HELP !!!

I'm finally installing my Jowett Oil Filter.

Do you re-use the factory spring to keep tension on the factory oil filter support tube or just bend the metal tabs back up and it stays in place? (without the spring?)

Thank you.
 
HELP !!!

I'm finally installing my Jowett Oil Filter.

Do you re-use the factory spring to keep tension on the factory oil filter support tube or just bend the metal tabs back up and it stays in place? (without the spring?)

Thank you.
1) bend the tabs UP on the stock tube to remove it from plastic housing and push back down once in the jowett. The spring and tube move over, but the disc does not.
2) 18ft/lbs on the housing when going back into the engine. lubricate the new o-ring with a little new oil.
3) 30ft/lbs on the drain plug.
 
1) bend the tabs UP on the stock tube to remove it from plastic housing and push back down once in the jowett. The spring and tube move over, but the disc does not.
2) 18ft/lbs on the housing when going back into the engine. lubricate the new o-ring with a little new oil.
3) 30ft/lbs on the drain plug.

Thanks Radman for the heads up, greatly appreciated BUT,

AHHHHH !!!!!

I'm totally confused now...

Originally, I did it with the spring since the support tube seems to need to be under tension...

Then I read Jowett's webpage and found the 4th sentence, " the factory spring valve is eliminated"... I did not read it correctly, I guess confusing...

So I went with the "no spring" option. There is no mention of getting rid of the disc and keeping the spring. An extra sentence would be nice to clarify.

I just the drove the rig about 10 miles local roads & highway.

Is this going to cause damage with no spring support ???

I'll change it out again tomorrow if necessary.

Thanks for any feed back from the forum members.




PLEASE NOTE, sockets, drain nipples, and dust caps are ordered separately in the drop down menu. Now offering drain valves for the oil pan! If you need any magnetic drain plugs for drivetrain applications, now is great time to add those. I have great prices on them and they will ship for free with the caps.

This billet 6061 aluminum oil filter cap is manufactured right here in western Massachusetts, USA. We have made several improvements to the oil filter cap to ease the cartridge filter change.

A six point 2 1/2" socket design replaces the 64.5mm 14 flute factory design. This eliminates both the tool becoming stuck on the filter cap, and the resulting rounding of the corners. The socket for this nut is normally utilized for wheel bearings. It is very HD, I offer a nice quality affordable version here, or you may purchase your own.

Next, the factory spring valve is eliminated. An EZ Drain Valve is utilized for quick draining of the housing. The socket will fit over it.

Your stock filter mount tube/bypass valve is retained/reused. Cap fits all 6/8 cylinder applications.
 
Thanks Radman for the heads up, greatly appreciated BUT,

AHHHHH !!!!!

I'm totally confused now...

Originally, I did it with the spring since the support tube seems to need to be under tension...

Then I read Jowett's webpage and found the 4th sentence, " the factory spring valve is eliminated"... I did not read it correctly, I guess confusing...

So I went with the "no spring" option. There is no mention of getting rid of the disc and keeping the spring. An extra sentence would be nice to clarify.

I just the drove the rig about 10 miles local roads & highway.

Is this going to cause damage with no spring support ???

I'll change it out again tomorrow if necessary.

Thanks for any feed back from the forum members.




PLEASE NOTE, sockets, drain nipples, and dust caps are ordered separately in the drop down menu. Now offering drain valves for the oil pan! If you need any magnetic drain plugs for drivetrain applications, now is great time to add those. I have great prices on them and they will ship for free with the caps.

This billet 6061 aluminum oil filter cap is manufactured right here in western Massachusetts, USA. We have made several improvements to the oil filter cap to ease the cartridge filter change.

A six point 2 1/2" socket design replaces the 64.5mm 14 flute factory design. This eliminates both the tool becoming stuck on the filter cap, and the resulting rounding of the corners. The socket for this nut is normally utilized for wheel bearings. It is very HD, I offer a nice quality affordable version here, or you may purchase your own.

Next, the factory spring valve is eliminated. An EZ Drain Valve is utilized for quick draining of the housing. The socket will fit over it.

Your stock filter mount tube/bypass valve is retained/reused. Cap fits all 6/8 cylinder applications.
Damage shouldn’t be an issue. Worse case is that oil is going to come out when you pull the plug. And possibly might be slowly dripping now since there isn’t any sort of gasket on the plug.
 

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