Awesome, thank you so much for the info!
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (20 Viewers)
- Thread starter JamesC
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Awesome, thank you so much for the info!
I'm changing my oil and found this lying on top of the skid plate. Any ideas as to what it is?
Mine is getting worse also. Barely clears the wiper.
Crazy... I know @cruiseroutfit found something very similar on his skid plate too. Still don't know what it is.
Not just very similar, 100% identical. I've not spent much time looking around but now I know it came from the Cruiser as opposed to random road debris that flipped up on my skid.
Now my curiosity is super piqued
Not just very similar, 100% identical. I've not spent much time looking around but now I know it came from the Cruiser as opposed to random road debris that flipped up on my skid.
View attachment 1963058
View attachment 1963059
Now my curiosity is super piqued
Wow! Please let me know if you figure it out. I'll crawl back under mine again. I was just at the alignment shop for a check before I did the oil so I was hoping it was something they left behind (albeit they never dropped the skid plate.) The hole is keyed but it appears to have spun on mine as the plastic on one side is scraped up.
Mine is the same. If almost looks like the face of a pulley or tensioner?
Curiosity got the best of me so I solved it via some Google photos. I'm 99.9% sure it's the drive belt tensioner pulley cover
Great question. I suspect that cover keeps debris out of the bearing so while it may not mean immediate failure, it might certainly lead to premature failure
Might as well try to get one item out of the 100k bumper to bumper warranty before it runs out!
Sac Cerevisiae
Reid
Differential Pinion Flange
I saw the unfortunate post from @weaselox regarding the broken CV . Does any one have more of a description (links, videos, etc) on the recommendations on how to get out of the woods... "You can spit the CV from the shaft, engage CDL and drive home." @VooDoo2 post 92 and "Correct, just leave the outer CV joint in place as it holds the bearing/hub/spindle together" @cruiseroutfit post 93?
Asking it here, since after a watching video on how to replace a CV/axle assemble, still not getting it. SQOD. Are you able to loosen the boots and pull out the staft from the inside axle (tripod connection?) and pull it out of the CV, then seal the up the boots with duct tape and drive on. Or do you need to take off the entire assembly (spindle to spindle) and remove retaining rings deep inside the CV that holds the shaft to the CV? In both cases, I assume you have to take off the brakes/hub. Or maybe there are no retaining rings to hold everything together- Just the hub and suspension components?
Asking it here, since after a watching video on how to replace a CV/axle assemble, still not getting it. SQOD. Are you able to loosen the boots and pull out the staft from the inside axle (tripod connection?) and pull it out of the CV, then seal the up the boots with duct tape and drive on. Or do you need to take off the entire assembly (spindle to spindle) and remove retaining rings deep inside the CV that holds the shaft to the CV? In both cases, I assume you have to take off the brakes/hub. Or maybe there are no retaining rings to hold everything together- Just the hub and suspension components?
I just posted an update over on my thread build that includes video of the incident.
This is the full shaft. Usually the inner bit breaks if possible you want the left hand shaft to remain in the diff but it might be unavoidable. Stuff a rag in to stop the oil leaking out.
You MUST leave this end in the wheel hub or the bearings will collapse.
You can pull the axle from the CV cage. it can be a challenge and its a lot easier to do with the CV out. Note pic is without the boot on the CV.
If you leave the inner shaft in the diff, you don't need to stuff a rag anywhere. The inner will keep the diff fluid from spilling out. Just leave the inner and outer CVs inside the diff and spindle, lock your CDL and be on your way.
This is assuming you can get the shaft out of the inner and outer CVs. OEM 200 CVs, shouldn't be an issue. If you're running aftermarket or non oem, you might run into issues.
Or swap in Dana 60s and not worry about it
This is assuming you can get the shaft out of the inner and outer CVs. OEM 200 CVs, shouldn't be an issue. If you're running aftermarket or non oem, you might run into issues.
Or swap in Dana 60s and not worry about it
Use interlocking costco pads / or the like and cut to fit to even up the slope. They are stout enough like the floor and won't distort like blankets.
Any hd or lowes im sure will have them.
If 3rd row removed, use above interlocking and get something like an Australian oem cargo mat to complete it.
Best rear cargo mat with 3rd row seats removed?
forum.ih8mud.com
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