SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (9 Viewers)

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I live in a wooded area and am constantly battling rodents in the engine compartments. The only thing I have found that actually works to repel them is mothballs, but they are incredibly toxic and I don't want to leave them in the truck while driving and I don't want to put them anywhere near the ventilation system.

The question I have is whether there is a way to install hardware cloth somewhere to keep them out of the ventilation system? On occasion, when I change the cabin air filter, I can see remnants of acorns. There has to be a way of excluding them from the air intake right? Where is it though? And what is the best method?

Any thoughts?
 
I live in a wooded area and am constantly battling rodents in the engine compartments. The only thing I have found that actually works to repel them is mothballs, but they are incredibly toxic and I don't want to leave them in the truck while driving and I don't want to put them anywhere near the ventilation system.

The question I have is whether there is a way to install hardware cloth somewhere to keep them out of the ventilation system? On occasion, when I change the cabin air filter, I can see remnants of acorns. There has to be a way of excluding them from the air intake right? Where is it though? And what is the best method?

Any thoughts?
I had the same problem, finding signs of rodents on the cabin filter. I fashioned a screen for the fresh air inlet using metal mesh I had around.

1979D321-CB82-4E97-AB4B-CD888D2622C0.jpeg


1B0A53F0-1332-493C-9703-7F0FF95E5611.jpeg
 
I live in a wooded area and am constantly battling rodents in the engine compartments. The only thing I have found that actually works to repel them is mothballs, but they are incredibly toxic and I don't want to leave them in the truck while driving and I don't want to put them anywhere near the ventilation system.

The question I have is whether there is a way to install hardware cloth somewhere to keep them out of the ventilation system? On occasion, when I change the cabin air filter, I can see remnants of acorns. There has to be a way of excluding them from the air intake right? Where is it though? And what is the best method?

Any thoughts?
I did the same thing, covered the HVAC intake with 1/4" hardware cloth, held in with zip ties.
 
Does anyone have a rear seat iPad holder that mounts between the front seats they like? Have the individual Toyota ones but my boys constantly want to watch the same thing.
 
Wondering if this means I have a dead TPMS sensor? Tried resetting with the button on the dash but it did nothing.

PXL_20230424_135239516.MP.jpg
 
Wondering if this means I have a dead TPMS sensor? Tried resetting with the button on the dash but it did nothing.

View attachment 3306060
Mine does this sometimes and then goes away after I drive it a while. Only comes on when on the highway. 🤷‍♂️
 
Mine does this sometimes and then goes away after I drive it a while. Only comes on when on the highway. 🤷‍♂️
in 1.5 years, mine has also come one twice and went off within 30 mins
 
Wondering if this means I have a dead TPMS sensor? Tried resetting with the button on the dash but it did nothing.

View attachment 3306060
Yup, or on its way out. Doesn't mean all are bad, but because one is out or not communicating properly the whole system becomes useless.
 
My first SQODs....

First, I am getting ready to change diff and t-case oils this weekend. I got a 12v pump for this purpose. Does anyone think I'll need separate pumps? In other words could trace amounts of GL-5 diff fluid hurt the soft metals in the t-case? I could of course just do the t-case first but I plan on reusing the pump in the future so I thought I'd ask.

Second, I am going to check the KDSS valve for rust and crack/tighten it while I'm under there. Does the truck need to be perfectly level when I do this and is there any chance I could throw the KDSS out of whack?
 
My first SQODs....

First, I am getting ready to change diff and t-case oils this weekend. I got a 12v pump for this purpose. Does anyone think I'll need separate pumps? In other words could trace amounts of GL-5 diff fluid hurt the soft metals in the t-case? I could of course just do the t-case first but I plan on reusing the pump in the future so I thought I'd ask.

Second, I am going to check the KDSS valve for rust and crack/tighten it while I'm under there. Does the truck need to be perfectly level when I do this and is there any chance I could throw the KDSS out of whack?
You can use the same pump. When dealers do the gear oil changes, they often just use the 75-90w in everything. If you are concerned, just do the t-case first with the 75w and pump a smidgen of 75-90w through the pump before doing the diffs. I'm doing the same job this week with the same pump. Crack the KDSS valves no more than 3 turns with the truck level for the grease coating process. That way you can't throw anything out of whack.
 
Ok. I’m guessing since I have an LX that this is hidden by the cover that runs along the top of the firewall.

My next SQOD is how to remove this ;)

Nevermind. I’m an idiot. I thought the cowling and the piece that covers part of the bay were two separate pieces. I also was not interpreting the pics correctly.

The intake sits directly below the windshield cowling. It wasn’t obvious how to get the cowling off but I figured it out.
 
Is the RW pretty much the only 17" wheel with a stock-ish offset? I'm shopping 17's and not finding any aftermarket wheels with a stock-like offset.

There are plenty of good ones with the recommended 25-35 offset for 35's, but a larger offset plus spacers (which I already have) seems like good future-proofing if I ever decide to swap to tundra arms. RW's are just insanely expensive and hard to find.

Please and thank you!
 
Is the RW pretty much the only 17" wheel with a stock-ish offset? I'm shopping 17's and not finding any aftermarket wheels with a stock-like offset.

There are plenty of good ones with the recommended 25-35 offset for 35's, but a larger offset plus spacers (which I already have) seems like good future-proofing if I ever decide to swap to tundra arms. RW's are just insanely expensive and hard to find.

Please and thank you!
From what I remember searching that's accurate. I believe OZ wheels came in +40 offset? You could also run spacer in the rear only when you tundra swap
 
Is the RW pretty much the only 17" wheel with a stock-ish offset? I'm shopping 17's and not finding any aftermarket wheels with a stock-like offset.

There are plenty of good ones with the recommended 25-35 offset for 35's, but a larger offset plus spacers (which I already have) seems like good future-proofing if I ever decide to swap to tundra arms. RW's are just insanely expensive and hard to find.

Please and thank you!

Nah son.

Evo Corse
Braid
Method
Alpha Equipt

They all make a +40, Alpha is a +35. Not "stock" but "stock equivalent" for your plus size.
There is also an American racing wheel in a +35 but I wouldn't pay money for that.
 
Nah son.

Evo Corse
Braid
Method
Alpha Equipt

They all make a +40, Alpha is a +35. Not "stock" but "stock equivalent" for your plus size.
There is also an American racing wheel in a +35 but I wouldn't pay money for that.


I'm not quite sure +40 would cut it for this scenario. I'm looking for something more like a +50 or +60 offset so that I can use my current 1" spacers to get the "correctish" offset for my 35's right now with stock control arms--BUT THEN ALSO have the correct offset if I switch to Tundra control arms in the future by removing the front spacers and running the same wheel. If I get something in the +25-+40 range, Tundra control arms will put them too far outboard to clear the fenders. Perhaps +40 would work as some people are running zero offset wheels on stock arms ( think the Tundra control arms and +40 would be roughly equivalent to zero offset on stock arms), but I'll also be running a 12.5" or 315 tire, so it seems too far outboard to me.
 
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I'm not quite sure +40 would cut it for this scenario. I'm looking for something more like a +50 or +60 offset so that I can use my current 1" spacers to get the "correctish" offset for my 35's right now with stock control arms--BUT THEN ALSO have the correct offset if I switch to Tundra control arms in the future by removing the front spacers and running the same wheel. If I get something in the +25-+40 range, Tundra control arms will put them too far outboard to clear the fenders. Perhaps +40 would work as some people are running zero offset wheels on stock arms ( think the Tundra control arms and +40 would be roughly equivalent to zero offset on stock arms), but I'll also be running a 12.5" or 315 tire, so it seems too far outboard to me.

Well, the answer is alway money...
I recently reached out to Braid USA for a quote on a custom size.
18x9 +35, you ready for this? $1350 ea., not including shipping.

Yeah um, nah. lol
I'll take the scrub.
 
I live in a wooded area and am constantly battling rodents in the engine compartments. The only thing I have found that actually works to repel them is mothballs, but they are incredibly toxic and I don't want to leave them in the truck while driving and I don't want to put them anywhere near the ventilation system.

The question I have is whether there is a way to install hardware cloth somewhere to keep them out of the ventilation system? On occasion, when I change the cabin air filter, I can see remnants of acorns. There has to be a way of excluding them from the air intake right? Where is it though? And what is the best method?

Any thoughts?
leave the hood up, or leave a lightbulb running in the engine bay. the mice hate the light

they have a spray that has oils in it that they hate the smell of, but do not know if it actually works
 
Dog or cat pee in a spray bottle all over your engine bay. That will make for a pleasant drive :hillbilly: but should keep the critters away
 

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