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On top of the parts of unknown quality, I also found the top bolt that holds the fan assembly on missing. You know, the hard one to get to.....that tells me a lot about the people that worked on it before me.
Impeller was my first thought. But then question is why. Maybe your missing bolt will be foundI would think if the impeller went first, it would have broken into more pieces and it would have been more catastrophic in there. The WP came off without too much effort, so I don't think I broke it getting it off.
All I know is I am going to baseline the crap out of this thing now that it is down. On top of the parts of unknown quality, I also found the top bolt that holds the fan assembly on missing. You know, the hard one to get to.....that tells me a lot about the people that worked on it before me.
I thought I covered this in my posting here and in links i provided, perhaps not.Sorry for falling off the face of the earth. I had some life business to deal with. Now that I have delt with that, I will have much more time to work in the shop.
So, I got the water pump in today and associated bits, but now I am stuck on the timing belt. I put it on the crank pulley, then between the tensioners, then over the PS pulley and that is where I get stopped. If I put it under the WP pulley, I can’t even get it on the DS cam pulley. I haven’t released the tensioner yet so that bearing it at full sag.
Any ideas?
Put the belt on the driver side cam pulley first. The PS cam pulley last..
Double check and make sure crank pulley on the right mark.
The belt should easily slide on.
Here's a trick: Bolt on the LH (DS (Driver side)) idler pulley on after you place the timing belt around RH idler, water pump, crank and both cam sprockets. Just make sure belt doesn't move off marks, as it will be loose. Check, re-check and check again once belt and all pulleys are in, then bolt on tensioner. Using small clips or clamps to gently hold belt is helpful as you'll need three hands to keep belt in place, it will be very limp/loose until all in place.
Put the belt on the driver side cam pulley first. The PS cam pulley last..
Double check and make sure crank pulley on the right mark.
The belt should easily slide on.
Here's a trick: Bolt on the LH (DS (Driver side)) idler pulley on after you place the timing belt around RH idler, water pump, crank and both cam sprockets. Just make sure belt doesn't move off marks, as it will be loose. Check, re-check and check again once belt and all pulleys are in, then bolt on tensioner. Using small clips or clamps to gently hold belt is helpful as you'll need three hands to keep belt in place, it will be very limp/loose until all in place.
I thought I covered this in my posting here and in links i provided, perhaps not.
Just so we're clear. You've call both idlers "tensioners", the tensioner bolts up with 2 bolts from outside and has pin to hold during installation. Tensioner should not be in yet place yet.
Here's a trick: Bolt on the LH (DS (Driver side)) idler pulley on after you place the timing belt around RH idler, water pump, crank and both cam sprockets. Just make sure belt doesn't move off marks, as it will be loose. Check, re-check and check again once belt and all pulleys are in, then bolt on tensioner. Using small clips or clamps to gently hold belt is helpful as you'll need three hands to keep belt in place, it will be very limp/loose until all in place.
The EXACT thing happened last night. My wife was driving about 30 mph when she realized that the truck wasn’t on anymore. No sounds and she coasted to the curb.Tuesday morning I was happily driving to work and all the sudden, the truck just quit. I pulled over to the side of the freeway. It would crank but not start. I got it towed home and put the scanner on it and it returned a P0340 code. Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction. I looked at scottm's fantastic timing belt write up :Timing Belt for Dummies writeup
and found the picture of the drivers side cam sensor, then my heart hit my shoes. It could be a knackered timing belt.
Last night I got the drivers side inspection cover peeled back enough to find the timing belt is all floppy on the cam gear. Great.
1998 Land Cruiser with 230K on the clock. I have owned it for almost exactly a year and have put 16K on it in that time. The PO told me the timing belt had been changed "recently" but had no paper work and I was going to change it out this spring. I guess I waited too long.
I have done a bunch of lurking and research on this site and it seems the consensus is most of the time valves don't crash when timing belts (or pulleys or whatever failed) fail.
Unless someone can convince me differently, I am going to go about my business buying all the parts for a timing belt service and put it back together to the point I can crank it and do a compression test. I figure if the engine is junk and I have to replace it with a used one, I will use all that stuff anyhow.
I have another car and a few motorcycles to get me around, so it may be a bit before I post what is going on, but I know you guys appreciate closure so I will keep you informed. More than a few times I followed a thread that the OP just fell off the face of the earth and that sucks!
Comments or suggestions are always appreciated.
Jamie
Since RH T-belt cover off, take your inspection one step further to gather more clues. By turning the crank with socket wrench by hand CW. Bring timing mark of harmonic balancer to 0. You should now see cam timing notch on the mark (not the "T") provided No. # 1 cylinder on compression stroke. Only gives indication of one cam (RH), but if off the mark you'll know belt jumped.The EXACT thing happened last night. My wife was driving about 30 mph when she realized that the truck wasn’t on anymore. No sounds and she coasted to the curb.
I hoped for something easy like a fuel filter, but the check engine light was on and p0340 code was showing. Had it towed home and pulled the timing cover away on the passenger side enough that I can see the belt. It is still on the cam gear, but I can move it easily front and back. It is still sitting in the grooves, but I suspect that it is broken. Hoping for the best as I start to pull it apart.
How many miles on the belt?I am elbow deep in it now. I have both covers off and the belt definely split in two. I’m stuck with the cam shaft sensor. The one center stud is obvious. The longer bold, I believe is the other stud but it isn’t budging and I don’t want to strip it. I’m watching YouTube videos and reading thru the forum now.