It was free, started easy, and got great compression (175 psi per cylinder), so I didn’t want to bother with rebuilding it. I just kept dumping oil in it for past 2 years, like 1 quart for 3 hours of run time. By this fall it was blowing out every oil seal from the excess crankcase pressure, and the cloud was too much. Finally putting in some new rings, exhaust valves, seals, etc.
Something timing belt-ish failed
- Thread starter chopperjamie
- Start date
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Still no answer on a AISIN 1282B equivalent but I did get a handful of OE Toyota 1282B tubes. I'm going to try to transfer them into much smaller tubes to included in our kits. First I need to source some suitable empty/blank tubes and then test how the transfer and shelf life is on the new tube?
2001LC
SILVER Star
This should be interesting.
Thats really a kind and proactive effort. With all the things you have going on at the shop, mail order and racing, I cant imagine you have the patience to deal with breaking down large tubes of goop into small tubes of goop.
You are really setting the bar for customer service.
Yeah has to be.
I emailed a seller with a similar low price and asked some questions, never got a reply. For as much labor/hassle it takes to get all the way into to the water pump, I didnt want to risk getting generic black rtv for saving $30.
I ponied up & bought a whole stink’n tube of the real deal from the dealer.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Looks like the real deal.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
- Thread starter
- #69
OK. I bought the kit (I tried Kurt first, but they were out. Sorry...I had to Amazon this one) FSM and a few other things.
I do have a question about the timing. Since I have attempted to crank this thing over a million times with the timing belt disengaged, how do I get the cams back in correct time? The cams spin twice for every one crank turn so there is a chance I could put one or both cams out of time 180 degrees.
Also, how much coolant does this thing take (Red from Toyota as I understand it) and is it premixed?
I do have a question about the timing. Since I have attempted to crank this thing over a million times with the timing belt disengaged, how do I get the cams back in correct time? The cams spin twice for every one crank turn so there is a chance I could put one or both cams out of time 180 degrees.
Also, how much coolant does this thing take (Red from Toyota as I understand it) and is it premixed?
2001LC
SILVER Star
Timing marks on crank and cams. If you put a long screwdriver in through #1 spark plug hole. It will rest on top of piston and you'll see it raise as you turn the crank to TDC (Top dead center). This will give you the confidence your piston is up, just as timing mark indicates. The cams will have to be turned into position also. Just remember the "T" above each cam is NOT the timing mark.
Tip remove all spark plug, makes life easier.
See the bump on the oil pump case and notch on the crank gear, that's TDC,
These look a little different then you'll see because their VVt actuators on the cams. But mark are the same.
Front of engine
LH--RH
1----2
3----4
5----6
7----8
Coolant:
System takes 12 qts of 50/50 coolant (system cap. 16.3 qts). I like to buy 2 gallons of Toyota LL (red) 100 % and about 7 or 8 gallons of distilled water. Fill system up with distill water after draining both block drains and radiator. Run engine until hot, cool down a bit and drain again. Then repeat for a second flush, don't shortcut this. You'll then have about one gallon left in the system most in heater core and some in engine pockets of very weak mix (~10/90%). Pour into radiator a gallon of red 100%. Then mix 1/2 of remaining gal of red into your jug, and half with water, yielding a jug of 50/50 ready to pour in the system. Fill your system with this 50/50 mix. Squeezing upper radiator hose will help burp the coolant system. Top radiator and run until hot, then fill reservoir with your 50/50 mix. Let cool down for 8 hours. Top radiator and add to reservoir until a few inches above low line. Run engine again until hot and let cool down overnight again. Then top radiator again if needed. If radiator full just add coolant to reservoir low line or touch above. Keep repeating until no coolant needed in radiator and holds low line in reservoir. Keep in mind, on a very cold mornings coolant will be lower in reservoir (radiator full). A warmer morning coolant will expand and be a little higher. Once burped, if system holds coolant level your good. Check coolant often, It should never use coolant.
These rust remove wheels work nice for cleaning off old gasket. The medium would be safer, then this Extra Coarse.
Click on Snowy in my signature for more tip on timing belt job..
Tip remove all spark plug, makes life easier.
See the bump on the oil pump case and notch on the crank gear, that's TDC,
These look a little different then you'll see because their VVt actuators on the cams. But mark are the same.
Front of engine
LH--RH
1----2
3----4
5----6
7----8
Coolant:
System takes 12 qts of 50/50 coolant (system cap. 16.3 qts). I like to buy 2 gallons of Toyota LL (red) 100 % and about 7 or 8 gallons of distilled water. Fill system up with distill water after draining both block drains and radiator. Run engine until hot, cool down a bit and drain again. Then repeat for a second flush, don't shortcut this. You'll then have about one gallon left in the system most in heater core and some in engine pockets of very weak mix (~10/90%). Pour into radiator a gallon of red 100%. Then mix 1/2 of remaining gal of red into your jug, and half with water, yielding a jug of 50/50 ready to pour in the system. Fill your system with this 50/50 mix. Squeezing upper radiator hose will help burp the coolant system. Top radiator and run until hot, then fill reservoir with your 50/50 mix. Let cool down for 8 hours. Top radiator and add to reservoir until a few inches above low line. Run engine again until hot and let cool down overnight again. Then top radiator again if needed. If radiator full just add coolant to reservoir low line or touch above. Keep repeating until no coolant needed in radiator and holds low line in reservoir. Keep in mind, on a very cold mornings coolant will be lower in reservoir (radiator full). A warmer morning coolant will expand and be a little higher. Once burped, if system holds coolant level your good. Check coolant often, It should never use coolant.
These rust remove wheels work nice for cleaning off old gasket. The medium would be safer, then this Extra Coarse.
Click on Snowy in my signature for more tip on timing belt job..
Last edited:
Zerex Asian is cheap and gets great reviews.
After all this work, spend the coin for Toyota Coolant wasn't any more expensive than what NAPA was selling.
Mine took ~14 quarts iirc 1999.
Mine took ~14 quarts iirc 1999.
I bought a tube from an eBay seller tj408. I believe it was legit and it had a Toyota shipping sticker as well, but the ship date was a little over a year old. I contacted three bond and they recommended I not use it. Whether they were covering themselves or not, they said it had a shelf life of 1 year. I returned and purchased a tube from dealer (I get 25% off) and used that. Funny thing is that I have no way of knowing how long it sat at the dealer.
Good Morning Scott,
Following up on your question whether your tube of 1282B is still in acceptable condition to be used if stored properly. This product has a one year shelf life and while it still may be in acceptable condition to use, we would recommend using a more up to date product.
Please let me know if you have any other questions or concerns.
Best,
Matt Book
Account Executive
MBook@ThreeBond.com
Are you going to use the FSM as guide, OR the Dummies write up?
I need to do this sometime and would appreciate you posting significant issues you encounter.
Looks like re-timing this Engine is much simpler than Isuzu engines <-- the only engine I have replaced the Timing Belt on.
I need to do this sometime and would appreciate you posting significant issues you encounter.
Looks like re-timing this Engine is much simpler than Isuzu engines <-- the only engine I have replaced the Timing Belt on.
Living proof of this. Forgot to put the small cover back. I got done and said, now what’s this??
2001LC
SILVER Star
My feeling also. Additionally, I don't want anyone including myself to later have to worry about mix fluids.
I generally get ~12 to ~14 as well in systems with Toyota LL. With systems that call for Toyota SLL pink (only sold premixed 50/50), I blow out with air and get close to 16 qts. All 100 series coolant capacity is 16.3 qts dry.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Some threads recommended rotating cams to the T marks and the crank to the dot mark. This pulls the piston away from TDC and will prevent any chance of interference should the cam rotate accidentally during belt install. This did happen to me which turned out to be no big deal...just rotated cam back into place and carried on.
