Something timing belt-ish failed (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter chopperjamie
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- Thread starter
- #102
I would think if the impeller went first, it would have broken into more pieces and it would have been more catastrophic in there. The WP came off without too much effort, so I don't think I broke it getting it off.
All I know is I am going to baseline the crap out of this thing now that it is down. On top of the parts of unknown quality, I also found the top bolt that holds the fan assembly on missing. You know, the hard one to get to.....that tells me a lot about the people that worked on it before me.
All I know is I am going to baseline the crap out of this thing now that it is down. On top of the parts of unknown quality, I also found the top bolt that holds the fan assembly on missing. You know, the hard one to get to.....that tells me a lot about the people that worked on it before me.
JPS commented a few posts back that he thought it was the Water Pump that took out his.
When you mentioned that you found a "bolt missing" and JPS stating that a "hose was not reattached properly"
are reasons I am not too keen on letting someone do my Timing Belt and Water Pump as mine is age necessary
rather than mileage necessary. And, if its some other part that takes out the Timing Belt, I'll be more watchful of
other parts that are metal listening closely for any unusual sounds.
When you mentioned that you found a "bolt missing" and JPS stating that a "hose was not reattached properly"
are reasons I am not too keen on letting someone do my Timing Belt and Water Pump as mine is age necessary
rather than mileage necessary. And, if its some other part that takes out the Timing Belt, I'll be more watchful of
other parts that are metal listening closely for any unusual sounds.
Had the same bolt missing on our LS430 - after a timing belt done at a FL Lexus dealership. So maybe it is a factory approved mod
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Impeller was my first thought. But then question is why. Maybe your missing bolt will be found
I've lost count of the messed up stuff I've found form previous work done on these rigs. Some was incompetence, some just in a hurry to get out the door, some with best of intention just lack the skill, some lazy, some downright dishonest to create more work down the road. This includes Lexus/Toyota Dealer shops not just your corner general "any vehicle" shop.
Over at Slee one day not long ago, it was said to me "we rather work on untouched rigs" less to deal with. So true!
I would try back flushing block, this includes radiator and heater cores as seperate areas. I don't like using tap water, but in this case may need your garden hose. As you need pressure for block. I have done heater cores like this
Just a thought: You may be able to connect to hot heater tee hose or pipe that sticks up on back of engine drive side and push water through block out the front with WP still out. Just do not put undue side press on that water pipe (rear of engine DS) they aren't attached very well, and will leaky if not careful.
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- Thread starter
- #108
Good, thanks for checking in. I have it all apart and life got a little in the way. I am hoping to make some progress on it tomorrow afternoon, but the weather is finally looking halfway decent here so I may have to go on a motorcycle ride.
- Thread starter
- #109
Sorry for falling off the face of the earth. I had some life business to deal with. Now that I have delt with that, I will have much more time to work in the shop.
So, I got the water pump in today and associated bits, but now I am stuck on the timing belt. I put it on the crank pulley, then between the tensioners, then over the PS pulley and that is where I get stopped. If I put it under the WP pulley, I can’t even get it on the DS cam pulley. I haven’t released the tensioner yet so that bearing it at full sag.
Any ideas?
So, I got the water pump in today and associated bits, but now I am stuck on the timing belt. I put it on the crank pulley, then between the tensioners, then over the PS pulley and that is where I get stopped. If I put it under the WP pulley, I can’t even get it on the DS cam pulley. I haven’t released the tensioner yet so that bearing it at full sag.
Any ideas?
Put the belt on the driver side cam pulley first. The PS cam pulley last..
Double check and make sure crank pulley on the right mark.
The belt should easily slide on.
Double check and make sure crank pulley on the right mark.
The belt should easily slide on.
I thought I covered this in my posting here and in links i provided, perhaps not.
Just so we're clear. You've call both idlers "tensioners", the tensioner bolts up with 2 bolts from outside and has pin to hold during installation. Tensioner should not be in yet place yet.
Here's a trick: Bolt on the LH (DS (Driver side)) idler pulley on after you place the timing belt around RH idler, water pump, crank and both cam sprockets. Just make sure belt doesn't move off marks, as it will be loose. Check, re-check and check again once belt and all pulleys are in, then bolt on tensioner. Using small clips or clamps to gently hold belt is helpful as you'll need three hands to keep belt in place, it will be very limp/loose until all in place.
- Thread starter
- #114
You probably did cover it, I apologize. Its been a rough few weeks and my head isn't on straight.
I meant idlers, not tensioners, I was typing faster than I was thinking.
I got some clamps so I must have read your suggestion somewhere. I will get out in the shop tonight and give all this a go. Thanks for reposting this!
- Thread starter
- #115
ANNNNND I'm back. I was able to steal a few hours in the shop today and this is where I am at. I got the timing belt all lined up and hand cranked it through a few rotations to make sure the timing was on. It was. Thank you to @2001LC, @outdoorsman and @REZARF for the help. When you know how to do it, it is easy. The story of life I suppose.
I got it buttoned up far enough to do a compression test and I have 120PSI across all 8 holes, so good news there! I got as far as filling the radiator but I don't have any distilled water and I also need to get new plugs because I an NOT putting the Bosch Platinums back in it.
Thanks to everyone that has helped so far! The journey continues!
I got it buttoned up far enough to do a compression test and I have 120PSI across all 8 holes, so good news there! I got as far as filling the radiator but I don't have any distilled water and I also need to get new plugs because I an NOT putting the Bosch Platinums back in it.
Thanks to everyone that has helped so far! The journey continues!
Don’t put Bosch in anything, I have a UK built corolla. I have had my first two failures this year, a knock sensor and starter motor, guess what, both Bosch. I have installed denso now so hope they will last longer.
The EXACT thing happened last night. My wife was driving about 30 mph when she realized that the truck wasn’t on anymore. No sounds and she coasted to the curb.
I hoped for something easy like a fuel filter, but the check engine light was on and p0340 code was showing. Had it towed home and pulled the timing cover away on the passenger side enough that I can see the belt. It is still on the cam gear, but I can move it easily front and back. It is still sitting in the grooves, but I suspect that it is broken. Hoping for the best as I start to pull it apart.
Since RH T-belt cover off, take your inspection one step further to gather more clues. By turning the crank with socket wrench by hand CW. Bring timing mark of harmonic balancer to 0. You should now see cam timing notch on the mark (not the "T") provided No. # 1 cylinder on compression stroke. Only gives indication of one cam (RH), but if off the mark you'll know belt jumped.
I am elbow deep in it now. I have both covers off and the belt definely split in two. I’m stuck with the cam shaft sensor. The one center stud is obvious. The longer bold, I believe is the other stud but it isn’t budging and I don’t want to strip it. I’m watching YouTube videos and reading thru the forum now.
How many miles on the belt?
