Slow Mo(tion), No Mo(ney) Build (1 Viewer)

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What's the bolt you're using on the rear of the battery box for, to relieve pressure on the fusible link? Is it a copper bolt or something? Is that of your own design? I like it.

Yes - After installing the military type battery terminals (for which wiring) the poor fuseable links were stretched to the max.

I installed a "stud" (bolt with brass flat washers and brass star lock washers and nylock nut) and use a heavy gauge wire to extend the B+ to the back of the battery box. Could also be used for adding other accessories (lights etc...) Really, it is just a cheap B+ bus bar.

The fuseable link eyelet is directly contacting the heavy gauge battery cable eyelet -the bolt, nut, and brass washers hold it all tight through a hole drilled into the battery box.

It was inspired by this kit (but mine is not as complete). I need the LCP kit ASAP!

Feed up with your crappy 80 series battery mount? LCP has a fix

Battery Bracket Upgrade - Land Cruiser Products - LCP

battery cable.JPG
 
Alright, got a few more things done.

Front drive shaft U-joints replaced (GMB 2150021 for both). One cap / cross was totally dry and rusted. Both u-joints were frozen. Amazing how new u-joints quiet and smooth out the entire truck. Will be doing the rear shaft soon.

IMG_0974.JPG



Installed LED bulbs in the doors and map light. WOW what a difference. I used a 912 / 921 high output LED, they barely fit - works great!

These are the ones for the doors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0749P998S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the map light:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0128VFOXG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

IMG_0973.JPG
 
Since it is 30F and sunny (nice weather), got some work done.

- Finally looked at my OME lift springs to see what was installed by the previous owner.
OME 851 in the front
OME 860 in the rear


- Pulled rear drive shaft for new u-joints. The front U-joint was stiff, the rear feels like new, 224K.

- Since i was under there, I cut and removed the entire rear brake proportioning valve (LSVP) linkage assembly. I zip-tied the valve upward to increase rear brake force, is this correct? I wont get to drive the truck til the rear driveshaft is back in to test the brakes.

Removed all this:
20181230_141231.jpg


Cut and zip-tied the linkage rod upward - is this right? :
20181230_141122.jpg
 
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a
 
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Since it's 40F and sunny in JANUARY, IN MINNESOTA, I took some time to get the LC ready to go.

Today I painted the rear bumper (spray truck bed liner) and mounted the HI-Lift Jack using the Hi-Lift 4XRAC mounts:

4xRAC | Hi-Lift® Jack Co.

It turned out very solid, and no interference with the tailgate. Good to go!





View attachment 1870896
 
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Yes - After installing the military type battery terminals (for which wiring) the poor fuseable links were stretched to the max.

I installed a "stud" (bolt with brass flat washers and brass star lock washers and nylock nut) and use a heavy gauge wire to extend the B+ to the back of the battery box. Could also be used for adding other accessories (lights etc...) Really, it is just a cheap B+ bus bar.

The fuseable link eyelet is directly contacting the heavy gauge battery cable eyelet -the bolt, nut, and brass washers hold it all tight through a hole drilled into the battery box.

It was inspired by this kit (but mine is not as complete). I need the LCP kit ASAP!

Feed up with your crappy 80 series battery mount? LCP has a fix

Battery Bracket Upgrade - Land Cruiser Products - LCP

View attachment 1851769


I love when guy's do the bolt through the battery box, you know if you touch your cluster there with a wrench you'll toast the fuseable link , it is not a wise idea for that :meh::meh::meh:
 
Yes, been ther, dont that on another truck. Thinking of
I love when guy's do the bolt through the battery box, you know if you touch your cluster there with a wrench you'll toast the fuseable link , it is not a wise idea for that :meh::meh::meh:


Good idea - I'll create a nice little boot to cover it up. Thanks!
 
Update - Braking performance was greatly improved by adjusting / modifying the rear brake proportioning valve (LSVP) as shown above. The brake pedal is much higher and firmer - nice!

Also - it is supposed to get -30F here this week, plugged in the block heater for the first time - hope it doesn't create any issues and actually works.

Stay warm!
 
Lots of snow today! My commute home was a blast on un-plowed back roads.

Excellent traction on the ice and snow. - 285/75R16 Nitto Terra Grapplers - 33psi. Used high range with the center diff locked, I noticed more traction and better handling in deep snow with the CDL locked.

Because snow:

1909094
 
Got new license plates and found that some mud members use the front plate to cover the winch opening to prevent snow / ice etc..from getting in there.

Used maglight "D" mounts to attach to winch fair-lead. Used 4 rivets to attach mounts to plate. (also a mud member idea)

Not bad for $8. (yes, I did go back and clean up the rivets)


1911087
 
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Productive weekend:
315 Milestar Patagonia Installed
30mm front spring spacers (OME medium lift already installed)
7 pin mod done (CDL Switch installed on dash already)
Extended breathers installed
Removed front swaybar
 
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Why did you remove the front sway? They have the disconnects for it.
 

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