Vehicle Sold
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Slow Mo(tion), No Mo(ney) Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 1911garand
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #2
Bumper Cut to Fit:
(BTW - this site rocks for information - THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
(BTW - this site rocks for information - THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
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- Thread starter
- #3
double tap
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Looks like a great starting point!
Since you're in MN, I would recommend KEEPING the rear heat and just doing a rear heat hard-line bypass. Basically, run hoses instead of removing it.
You got a great deal for all that was done to the truck!
To keep it from rusting into nothingness, consider doing FluidFilm under it 2X/year.
If your as far north as Polaris would indicate, your in the GWN!
Welcome!
You got a great deal for all that was done to the truck!
To keep it from rusting into nothingness, consider doing FluidFilm under it 2X/year.
If your as far north as Polaris would indicate, your in the GWN!
Welcome!
- Thread starter
- #6
Definitely GWN. Best. Movie. Ever. Period.
Thanks for the ideas (hoses, sans tubes) for rear heat.
Thanks for the ideas (hoses, sans tubes) for rear heat.
- Thread starter
- #7
Here are my "new" 3rd row seats, now installed. MINTY for under $100!!!!!
- Thread starter
- #8
These idler bearings (all of a sudden) made me second guess my purchase today. Sounded like the engine was coming apart.
Solved.
Solved.
- Thread starter
- #9
Alright, going over mounting locations for the solar panel. 30W - 5A Thermo King ThermoLite panel kit part #401414. The panel is 13x21". It comes with a nice mounting bracket, hardware, module, wiring 12' in length.
The roof would be the best, but I have not figured out my roof rack yet, and I am not crazy about drilling a hole in the roof to run the wires to the engine bay.
The hood of the LC (or any vehicle) is a big waste of space. I have thoughts about mounting it to the hood at a forward angle to reduce glare.
Thoughts...roof or hood?
The roof would be the best, but I have not figured out my roof rack yet, and I am not crazy about drilling a hole in the roof to run the wires to the engine bay.
The hood of the LC (or any vehicle) is a big waste of space. I have thoughts about mounting it to the hood at a forward angle to reduce glare.
Thoughts...roof or hood?
The roof would be better than the hood. Less chance of rock chip and bugs. Under the sun roof glass? Is that possible 
- Thread starter
- #11
Alright, the slow road to baseline continues:
1. Tightened the front wheel bearings this weekend. All looked good, but nuts not even finger tight.
2. Installed a set of 9006 low beam LEDs from Amazon. Unbelievably better that the OEM bulb output. They did require re-aiming.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKVZM1F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3. Replaced the Fuesable Link assembly (thanks Witt's End!). The original part was well worn, insulation cracked, and deformed. The new one is so pretty! The pic below shows the NAPA military battery terminals too - nice and clean battery layout for an old PIG.
4. I wanted to post a pic of what it looks like when the air intake hose cracks during an air filter install. A new intake hose is under $25 on Amazon. I'd recommend replacing it ASAP if your rig has any miles on it. We will see how long this China one lasts.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY4FK3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1. Tightened the front wheel bearings this weekend. All looked good, but nuts not even finger tight.
2. Installed a set of 9006 low beam LEDs from Amazon. Unbelievably better that the OEM bulb output. They did require re-aiming.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKVZM1F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3. Replaced the Fuesable Link assembly (thanks Witt's End!). The original part was well worn, insulation cracked, and deformed. The new one is so pretty! The pic below shows the NAPA military battery terminals too - nice and clean battery layout for an old PIG.
4. I wanted to post a pic of what it looks like when the air intake hose cracks during an air filter install. A new intake hose is under $25 on Amazon. I'd recommend replacing it ASAP if your rig has any miles on it. We will see how long this China one lasts.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY4FK3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Nice truck! Looks like its in awesome shape. Which bulbs did you get? looks like there are a few variations on that amazon link. Ive been mulling over doing this upgrade.
- Thread starter
- #13
Thank you!
LEDs:
The link no longer shows the 9006 / HB4 option for some reason.
I only chose these because of the good reviews at it was on "lightening sale" for $25.
This is the title of the ones I ordered:
"HIKARI LED Headlight Bulbs Conversion Kit-9006(HB4),9600lm 6K Cool White,2 Yr Warranty"
Install was easy, only needed to set the coolant tank to the side to access the passenger side bulb.
The electrical connection is reversible, so you just need to line up the + with + and the - with -. Easy.
Here is the box:
LEDs:
The link no longer shows the 9006 / HB4 option for some reason.
I only chose these because of the good reviews at it was on "lightening sale" for $25.
This is the title of the ones I ordered:
"HIKARI LED Headlight Bulbs Conversion Kit-9006(HB4),9600lm 6K Cool White,2 Yr Warranty"
Install was easy, only needed to set the coolant tank to the side to access the passenger side bulb.
The electrical connection is reversible, so you just need to line up the + with + and the - with -. Easy.
Here is the box:
- Thread starter
- #14
Removed the OEM roof rack to mount the Thermo King solar panel kit (pn 401414). Found some nasty-ness under the mounts.
Cleaned up the roof rack mounting areas, bed lined the area to seal it, new RTV around the riv-nuts, cleaned and greased the mounting screws, solar panel mounted. Amazingly the riv-nuts were nice and tight, no issues removing or installing the screws.
The OEM roof rack is not very strong, very weak mounting - not much holds it together. I look forward to getting a rain gutter mounted unit.
I will route the harness along with the snorkel when I get that installed.
The plan is to eventually bed line the entire vehicle - got to love black Land Cruisers!
Nasty:
Not so nasty:
Nice and tight:
View attachment 1818905
Cleaned up the roof rack mounting areas, bed lined the area to seal it, new RTV around the riv-nuts, cleaned and greased the mounting screws, solar panel mounted. Amazingly the riv-nuts were nice and tight, no issues removing or installing the screws.
The OEM roof rack is not very strong, very weak mounting - not much holds it together. I look forward to getting a rain gutter mounted unit.
I will route the harness along with the snorkel when I get that installed.
The plan is to eventually bed line the entire vehicle - got to love black Land Cruisers!
Nasty:
Not so nasty:
Nice and tight:
View attachment 1818905
- Thread starter
- #15
Dang Nuts. Looks like I need to bypass the rear heater sooner than I thought. Leaving on a 500 mile trip for deer hunting on Thursday, glad happened now, in the driveway.
- Thread starter
- #16
What a mess of old hoses and clamps. The heater valve fitting also broke when I touched it.
I by-passed the rear heater because of a leak (see my last post), and totally eliminated the heater control valve, so simple, so clean.
It is 44F here, it blows HOT when the temp selector is in the RED, it blows 44F when the heat slider is in the blue. I'll see how it works in the summer. I can always add the heater control valve back in when I do the PHH bypass.
I used Gates hose # 28471 to do BOTH of the 5/8" hoses that connect to the firewall. Some new clamps and a couple 5/16" coolant hoses were also replaced since I was in there.
I by-passed the rear heater because of a leak (see my last post), and totally eliminated the heater control valve, so simple, so clean.
It is 44F here, it blows HOT when the temp selector is in the RED, it blows 44F when the heat slider is in the blue. I'll see how it works in the summer. I can always add the heater control valve back in when I do the PHH bypass.
I used Gates hose # 28471 to do BOTH of the 5/8" hoses that connect to the firewall. Some new clamps and a couple 5/16" coolant hoses were also replaced since I was in there.
96FZJ80
SILVER Star
You made that way too easy. 
What's the bolt you're using on the rear of the battery box for, to relieve pressure on the fusible link? Is it a copper bolt or something? Is that of your own design? I like it.
I bought a new one from Toyota. Think it was $230 bucks or something crazy.
