RESOLVED: Moab Crank/No Start completed troubleshooting

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TheGrrrrr

TheGrrrrr

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Joined
Apr 3, 2019
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Location
Scottsdale, AZ
We’re down to an unknown wiring issue or ECU took a crap. Not sure where to take it. Exploring trailer options to take it to Denver. All ideas welcome. All relevant relays, fusible links and fuses gave been replaced. No CEL in on position.
 
Can’t find a trailer. Shop recommendations would be helpful as well.
 
I know Scott fron Higgys is up there. Check to see if @Cruiserhiggs can help you out if he hasn't already.

Seen you are from Scottsdale, do you have his contact information? If not check your PM.
 
That was actually my first call when once I had exhausted everything. My 200 miles of towing from AAA will get it to a shop in Provo… eventually. I’ll just fly home to Phoenix from Moab and then figure out how to get it home from Provo whenever it’s fixed.
 
TheGrrrrr said:
That was actually my first call when once I had exhausted everything. My 200 miles of towing from AAA will get it to a shop in Provo… eventually. I’ll just fly home to Phoenix from Moab and then figure out how to get it home from Provo whenever it’s fixed.
Click to expand...
Thought AAA was only 100 miles, I could be wrong. Hopefully it is something easy and is a quick fix for the mechanic in Provo.
 
TheGrrrrr said:
We’re down to an unknown wiring issue or ECU took a crap. Not sure where to take it. Exploring trailer options to take it to Denver. All ideas welcome. All relevant relays, fusible links and fuses gave been replaced. No CEL in on position.
Click to expand...
Try swap coil if you can borrow one. Had one that tested OK with ohm meter, but swapped in used one that fixed it.
 
Truck will be heading to a shop in Provo that @Cruiserhiggs recommended. It’s a few miles inside my 200 mile AAA towing limit and close enough to a major airport that getting back to it shouldn’t be terrible.

I’m now sitting at the Canyonlands airstrip awaiting my flight to Phoenix. It’s so frustrating because damn near everything has been replaced in the last few months that I’ve owned it and it was running incredibly well up until this morning. It even started right up last night in the driveway when I was testing the rear flood light. No issues at all. The last week is the best it has ran the whole time I’ve had it.

Today all packed up and ready to drive back to Phoenix and… nothing. Just cranks and cranks. No CEL. I had spares of everything but an ECU with me and nothing made a difference.

So incredibly frustrating.

Big thanks to @Cruiserhiggs for helping me make sure I didn’t miss anything in my troubleshooting. Also thanks to @JohnJB @Gregtoy144 and @mcgaskins for helping me do the troubleshooting. Greg especially for doing the vast majority of the actual work.

Good times.
 
Turned out to be a wiring repair from before I owned it that failed. The EFI fuse location had melted at some point in the past and it was bypassed with an inline fuse but the wiring job failed. I could say it wasn't done very well, but it held up for many years, so maybe it was just time. I think this new repair was done with my use in mind and will be more durable. Thankful it wasn't something bigger. On the airplane to SLC right now, and will spend the next couple days driving it home.

Appreciate all the support.
 
Matt,

So there was an EFI fuse in the fuse box, but it wasn't actually connected to the EFI circuit? And thus all power to the EFI circuit was instead going through the added inline fuse? And thus when you replaced the EFI fuse it fixed nothing?

That is nuts. I can understand why someone would bypass a fuse location when the box has melted there, but why put another EFI fuse in there?

Or am I misunderstanding something?

Jared

PS. I am impressed that the shop figured that out.
 
sjpitts said:
Matt,

So there was an EFI fuse in the fuse box, but it wasn't actually connected to the EFI circuit? And thus all power to the EFI circuit was instead going through the added inline fuse? And thus when you replaced the EFI fuse it fixed nothing?

That is nuts. I can understand why someone would bypass a fuse location when the box has melted there, but why put another EFI fuse in there?

Or am I misunderstanding something?

Jared

PS. I am impressed that the shop figured that out.
Click to expand...

The EFI location in the fuse box had been bypassed with a fused wired due to having melted at some point in the past. The fused wire tested fine for continuity, it just wasn't getting enough voltage through. When they inspected the soldered connections from the original repairs many years ago it had partially failed and fully failed upon their inspection. I knew that the EFI fuse had been relocated, but because the fuse was good and the fuse holder itself tested OK for continuity, I moved on to the next thing.
 
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