Build: 40th Anniversary Restoration (6 Viewers)

[Charles4x4]

Through my renovations of 1st gen 4Runners (my 5th one is in process ), I’ve gotten where I really like the Nylon Loop ACC carpet over the Plush or Ultra Plush. It’s a bit of an upgrade, but looks and feels better to me and seems to hold up better to use. The only negative is that color selection is more limited.

So, I ordered 4 Brown samples to compare with my Oak interior. The 5th option is 610 Brown, but I didn’t need a sample as I already have it in a 4runner. I already knew 610 Brown wasn’t a fit.

Overall I decided on 629 Dark Brown. It’s slightly darker, but I assume my carpet has faded some (even on the tailgate) so it’s probably close the closest I can get to a perfect match to OEM Factory Oak Carpet in the Nylon Loop style.

Also attaching a pic of 610 Brown from my 85 SR5 4Runner in case anyone wants to see it. IMO it isn’t near as close of a fit to our Oak interior as 629 Dark Brown.

 

[Charles4x4]

Found out that I don’t have the RS3000 security system that most people have. Instead, I have a south east dealer only installed unit under the drivers foot panel area.

It is a TDS APS 95 BT3 unit. I thought about scrapping it, and simply upgrading, but sticking with the overall theme of this restoration and the fact that the remotes are only $20 brand new, I’m going to see if I can get it to work. I bought a couple remotes off eBay.

Wish me luck on getting these dinosaurs to work when they come in later this week!

 

[FloridaCruiser22]

Found out that I don’t have the RS3000 security system that most people have. Instead, I have a south east dealer only installed unit under the drivers foot panel area.

It is a TDS APS 95 BT3 unit. I thought about scrapping it, and simply upgrading, but sticking with the overall theme of this restoration and the fact that the remotes are only $20 brand new, I’m going to see if I can get it to work. I bought a couple remotes off eBay.

Wish me luck on getting these dinosaurs to work when they come in later this week!

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I have this one in my 40th as well! Have been thinking about ripping it all out as I never use it

 

[Charles4x4]

I have this one in my 40th as well! Have been thinking about ripping it all out as I never use it

Glad to know I'm not the only one with it . I don't have a key yet for the doors (just the ignition key), so I'm hoping this gives me access and security while I pull the locks for the code for the key. I used to have the same set with my 98 Tacoma and didn't mind it, so hopefully it's worth $20!

 

[tlc1995]

Still searching for Factory Locked Axles, but if anyone a) has any leads on a used Fender Flare (ideally in Antique Sage Pearl from a 40th Anniversary cruiser) or b) has any ideas on how to find/re-create the 3 plastic tabs I'm missing from my current fender flare, please DM me. I'd love to find one this way before I order a brand new one that has to be painted. Thanks!

I also posted my search in the Classifieds - Parts section.

Wanted - Birmingham, AL: Looking for 40th Anniversary Passenger Front Fender Flare (1B2 Antique Sage) 80 Series

Hi, I'm looking for a Passenger Front Fender Flare for my 40th Anniversary 80 Series in 1B2 Antique Sage or the 3 Plastic Tabs that I can adhere back onto it (they are all missing on mine). I'm in Birmingham but can drive within a few hours as needed. See pic below of it missing. Thanks!

forum.ih8mud.com

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There is a guy in classified part out section not to be confused with classified parts section that is from Michigan that has a set of locked axles that he could part with if his bank account is massaged enough but get to it cause like You know I'm sure these things tend to not be available that much d and if they are they aren't long until the next come up and do the same same

 

[tlc1995]

Hi all, I just up a one-owner, no rust, originally purchased a few miles from me and has been here since 1997, 40th Anniversary Land Cruiser today. Pretty excited about it. Cosmetically it is really rough, but mechanically it’s sound. Excited to begin the restoration process. A few pics from just after I snagged it below and I’ll post some from after I cleaned the exterior today here shortly. Had a 96 a few years ago that I built up, but sold it to race KOH. Glad to be back in the 80 Series family.
Prior build thread:

Builds - 80 Build Thread - PreWork & 1 Weekend

I haven't posted much, but this forum has been a great source of advice for both fixes and upgrades. Our Cruiser: '96 LC with 210K miles, factory lockers, and no rust (exceptional condition) PreWork: Over the past year I have done a lot of PM (Thanks CDan for all the parts and advice): -...

forum.ih8mud.com

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Check with@CK88 for those e locker axles You searching for

 

[Charles4x4]

Check with@CK88 for those e locker axles You searching for

On it! Thank you!!!

EDIT: PM Sent, fingers crossed!

 

[Anarchy]

Hey Neighbor!

Just north of you in Huntsville.

I purchased my 40th, 25 months ago and dove into the "restoration" about 1 year ago. A $5500 gem, triple Locked Clean Title from California with a minor/moderate hit on the passenger side and made some great progress over the year getting it back to its former glory.

Need some small things like new/used headlights (tabs broken) but I'm pretty satisfied at this point.

Congrats on the 40th purchase, looking forward to seeing more of the Resto! Subscribed to thread!

 

[Charles4x4]

Hey Neighbor!

Just north of you in Huntsville.

I purchased my 40th, 25 months ago and dove into the "restoration" about 1 year ago. A $5500 gem, triple Locked Clean Title from California with a minor/moderate hit on the passenger side and made some great progress over the year getting it back to its former glory.

Before:

After:

Need some small things like new/used headlights (tabs broken) but I'm pretty satisfied at this point.

Congrats on the 40th purchase, looking forward to seeing more of the Resto! Subscribed to thread!

Wow, awesome job on the restoration!!! It looks like a completely different cruiser for sure. Did you end up repaining the whole truck or just the front passenger fender/flare area? We have family in Huntsville, so maybe I'll bring the cruiser up that way sometime after it's done.

Also, what KM3s did you go with? 315s or larger? They look great, and I hope they ride great (I haven't tested any KM3s yet and was leaning toward 315 KO3s when they come out in May).

I'm about to enter the true Tear Down phase, so wish me luck!

 

[Anarchy]

Wow, awesome job on the restoration!!! It looks like a completely different cruiser for sure. Did you end up repaining the whole truck or just the front passenger fender/flare area? We have family in Huntsville, so maybe I'll bring the cruiser up that way sometime after it's done.

Also, what KM3s did you go with? 315s or larger? They look great, and I hope they ride great (I haven't tested any KM3s yet and was leaning toward 315 KO3s when they come out in May).

I'm about to enter the true Tear Down phase, so wish me luck!

Fresh paint all around, except the jams and engine bay.

I did go with the KM3 315's; only have 150 miles on pavement, but no complaints thus far. Can't really tell you about off-road capabilities yet or the noise since the entire vehicle has been layered with sound deadening, closed cell foam, carpet mass backing with new carpet.

Good luck sir! Strip her down! Can't wait to see what you do with it!

 

[Charles4x4]

Boring Update:
We ordered a ton of parts over the past few weeks (vast majority OEM from Discount Toyota Parts places, Ebay, and even some stuff from Japan/UAE whey they had better prices even considering shipping) and about 20% of them have arrived so far. Some are stuck in "Availability Review" in Japan, so that's fun!

More to come soon!

Small question:
My taillights have some cracks/holes. Unfortunately I believe the taillights are a single unit, unlike my 1st gen 4runners where I can just buy replacement OEM lenses. Assuming this is the case, any alternatives to paying the discount OEM rates ($100ish each)? If I'm going to spend any money on the taillights, I want them to be or at least look OEM and new (so finding salvage ones might not be much better than what I have now). There are Ebay options (mostly DEPO) for 50% less ($80ish for the pair) though. For example:

USA PAIR Replacement Rear Tail Light For 91-97 Land Cruiser / 95-97 Lexus LX450 | eBay

1995-1997 Lexus LX450. 1991-1997 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ80/FJ82 Chassis. x2 Tail Lights (Left + Right). Installation instructions are not provided for most parts. Reason for this standard procedure is to protect both parties and to avoid inconsistency from occurring, also to understand how /...

www.ebay.com

Thanks!

 

[Charles4x4]

While I’m waiting for more stuff to arrive, I decided to tackle the seat gears while they are out. Neither moved forward or backward, so Gramiviti gears were a must.

Reminder to self: Drive seat front upward before you remove them . Had to lug them to the LC and plug them back in to do that before I could get started.

Unfortunately 3 of the total 4 gears on mine were stripped, so I had to order another gear. Hopefully it’ll be here in a few days and I can close this project out!

 

[Anarchy]

We need to coordinate in the future, I’m doing mine this week as well, along with being reupholstered, we could have split the Gamiviti tool purchase

 

[405]

Following. Coming from the 40 section, its good to see an 80 being restored!

 

[Charles4x4]

4 Gears and 2 Caps from Gamiviti, and a few hours of work and the seats are done. We’ll hope they work once I reinstall them down the line. Until then, they’re in the garage waiting on the final prices of the replacement leather kit to arrive.

 

[Charles4x4]

Also worked on the door locks. My drivers door lock is really sticky, getting caught 1/2 the way either direction. So I ordered some motors from eBay that the 100 series guys have a few threads about and tried to install them last night. Blue wrapped motor is OEM and the silver one is the Mabuchi with 20mm shaft (FC-280PC-22125).

 

[Charles4x4]

I first tried to simply swap the gear and the end caps on the motors to make it a super easy installation. Unfortunately, the new motor is slightly too long and contacts the OEM end cap. I then tried to drill a small hole in the OEM endcap, but it tore up one of the contacts inside when my hand slipped slightly. So, I cut the contacts off the OEM motor and swap them over. I glued the contacts on so they wouldn’t move and tested it and it worked fine. I use some superglue I had to attach the worm gear to the new shaft.

The OEM shaft has a raised edge where the worm gear goes. This new motor doesn’t, so I was skeptical that the household superglue would hold.

I’ve been reinstalled everything in the door and it worked great for three attempts, and unfortunately then the worm gear broke off the shaft. So I ordered some 609 Loctite from Amazon that will be here in a couple days and will try that.

I also went ahead and ordered a few sets of the rear door lock mechanism from rock auto. If all else fails, I can swap the motor from the rear lock housing to the front lock, housing, which are no longer available anywhere from what I could tell. More to come on this!

 

[Charles4x4]

I also finally finished stripping the entire interior, including all the headliner and grab handles and overhead console stuff. Getting everything prepped for when the PDR guy comes and I start refreshing all the interior trim pieces.

 

[Charles4x4]

Quick Drivers Front door lock update:
It works flawlessly! So $5 and the right adhesive (Loctite 609) and it’s done!

Will swap in the Rock Auto rear door parts when they arrive. Then should be all done with door lock repairs!

 

[Charles4x4]

Spent a couple hours today swapping in new belts, vacuuming then charging the AC system with 2.75 cans of r134a (likely for the first time in years), and pulling off Front and Rear Bumpers.

The belts surprisingly took the longest. AC belt was a breeze. I didn’t remember the Alternator adjustment screw being such a bear to get to for the double belts. The ratcheting wrench could barely move 2-3 clicks each time - it was tight in there. Glad that’s done, my hands took a beating!

For the bumpers, I had to bend one of the front bumper mounts back into place (likely from PO hitting something at some point). I also am going to swap in a new rear bumper corner that has no damage. So I just went ahead and pulled it all to make it easier for the paint shop down the line.